Subframe Connecters

[Zach]

Going to be my next purchase just want to make sure I get a quality set, opinions on welded vs bolt on. Should I also upgrade to solid bushings, etc, etc. I think I had my eyes on the PTFB ones wondering if anyone has any thoughts. My car had American T Tops put on by the dealer so there is VERY little of my roof left with very little support, should've done this sooner it'll probably solve a few issues I am having. Not hard for me to get the car off the ground or rip the interior out depending on installation choice, just want a quality set that is known to be good. Thanks.

[stros]

I’ve had my PTFB ones for over 10 years now.  Bolted on - not welded.  They’ve been great.  They do hang down a tad low on my lowered T/A.  I did PTFB solid body bushings at the same time.  Tightened the entire car up.  Not sure if it made the ride any harsher as I did shocks and springs at the same time.  My T/A handles great - the ride is a little harsh on bumps but not too bad.  I don’t have t tops though.

[Wallington]

If your ride becomes harsh it simply means your already harsh suspension is not being absorbed and muffled so much! Solid or poly for bolted-in SFCs. PTFB here also, although not driven in 15 years, more solid sitting there.

[Zach]

Sweet thanks seems I will stick with PTFBs. My suspension isn't helping either it needs a refresh. At least the connectors I can set and forget and move on to other ride upgrades.

Are the PTFB key-lock body bushings the ones I want to be looking at by the way? I can only imagine my current ones are shot like everything else.

[stros]

Sweet thanks seems I will stick with PTFBs. My suspension isn't helping either it needs a refresh. At least the connectors I can set and forget and move on to other ride upgrades.

Are the PTFB key-lock body bushings the ones I want to be looking at by the way? I can only imagine my current ones are shot like everything else.

Yes I believe so. 

[N PRGRES]

I also have the connectors and solid bushings, can handles awesome, I have a BMW that travels the same road as me on my way home, I stayed glued to his bumper, although my 15" rims make that a bit of an experience lol

[stros]

In case you’re interested on improving the rest of the suspension. I did the PTFB GT springs, Viking dual adjustable shocks, PTFB Blade front sway bar with welded mounts, PTFB rear sway bar and SPC upper control arms.  Went with SPC as I preferred their non shim based adjustments but I’m sure the PTFBs are fine as well.

It handles like it’s on rails/ like a go cart. For some reason the Blade bar and the upper control arms really took everything to the next level.  The control arms allow for more caster in the alignment.  It handles much better on the freeway after adding those too.

The only thing that’s not perfect about it is the adjustments on the shocks are hard to get to. I found a setting I liked and haven’t changed them probably for 5 years now.  I have to keep them a bit on the stiffer side as when they were set to softer settings my 285/17 rear tires would sometimes rub on bumps.

Sometimes I think it’s a little too low, as mentioned above I have to be careful on speed bumps as the connectors can hit.

[Zach]

In case you’re interested on improving the rest of the suspension. I did the PTFB GT springs, Viking dual adjustable shocks, PTFB Blade front sway bar with welded mounts, PTFB rear sway bar and SPC upper control arms.  Went with SPC as I preferred their non shim based adjustments but I’m sure the PTFBs are fine as well.

It handles like it’s on rails/ like a go cart. For some reason the Blade bar and the upper control arms really took everything to the next level.  The control arms allow for more caster in the alignment.  It handles much better on the freeway after adding those too.

The only thing that’s not perfect about it is the adjustments on the shocks are hard to get to. I found a setting I liked and haven’t changed them probably for 5 years now.  I have to keep them a bit on the stiffer side as when they were set to softer settings my 285/17 rear tires would sometimes rub on bumps.

Sometimes I think it’s a little too low, as mentioned above I have to be careful on speed bumps as the connectors can hit.

Sweet I will keep this in mind, need to get my moms mustang on the road before I rip apart the TA figured the subframe connectors are an easy bolt on and a necessity. Eventually I will get full suspension.



Thanks again for the responses.

[FormTA]

I too have the PTFB connectors, solid keyed body mounts, GT rear springs. Like everyone else, it was a great upgrade. Handles like it's a slot car. I have stock front A arms but hotchkis 2 lowing springs.

I wish the old post was still around.... Someone had a great write up on installing them. I know a right angle drill or drill attachment really helped me. Depending on the floor condition, you may have a cage nut break free when trying to install the solid body mounts. That really extends the install time.

I did tack weld mine after bolting but it's not necessary.

Maybe make a write up on it when you do it.

[Wallington]

I posted pics but not sure it was a write-up or just pics for a question  asked. Yes, right angle drill was handy. I think i had to make pilot hole in both sides and drill each side separately to keep square, more to do with length of drill on hand perhaps.
With the PTFB kit I also added inner crush tunes as they used a single bolt through the lot. They have now changed this to separate bolts in each side, not through the lot.
Hardtops are obviously more rigid but their flexing focuses on the top rear corner of the side door opening and hairline cracks are common. T-tops, being a jelly on wheels have so much flex that they occur everywhere, and often no cracks there, so a bonus kinda! I think some still do, proof they were a bridge jump car once!

[Zach]

500 bucks later pulled the trigger on the PTFB sub frame connectors and solid body bushings. Hopefully install goes well, this car is shockingly rust free on the under side for a Minnesota car.