TAC Central => Lobby => Topic started by: 72projectbird on July 28, 2023, 04:24:40 PM
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Well the day finally came. The car was off the road since 1995. Got it back up and running last fall after dragging it out of the woods. The clutch was smoked, but drivable, until now. I guess power shifting an ancient clutch isn't good for it, and now it slips in every gear lol.
Got the trans out today. Was hoping the flywheel was useable, but it's got some good heat cracks in it. The throw out bearing sounds like it's entering orbit when you spin it, and the pilot bearing fell out on it's own. Good stuff.
Also, the clutch pedal was adjusted way out of whack. The pedal was about 3 inches higher than the brake pedal, and had almost no free play.
The trans is numbers matching, which is cool.
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More pics
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Heck, looks good to me. Little brake clean, reinstall and send it! 😁
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When it's done, you will like knowing that all that stuff is new- and will need breaking in!
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What are you using for a replacement? I am ready to buy a new clutch, being a 4 sp trans am is all new to me I have no idea what to get. I was looking at some mid grade stuff from summit and was told they should be fine.
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What are you using for a replacement? I am ready to buy a new clutch, being a 4 sp trans am is all new to me I have no idea what to get. I was looking at some mid grade stuff from summit and was told they should be fine.
I used a stock style replacement from Luk. I got it off Rockauto. Came with a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. I wanna say it was under $100.
I run Centerforce Dual Friction clutches in higher hp cars, but the Luk stock style is more than fine for a stock or mild cruiser.
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You can see there, I guess you can see, that clutch adjustment was the root problem. The clutch didn't wear out (maybe - you be the judge here).
Clutches are supposed to need adjustment to prevent slipping. that is the norm. Sometimes the fingers will bend and they'll start dragging, and sometimes people think that as the clutch wears it'll drag. That's not so. As the clutch wears you have to shorten that linkage so that it doesn't slip.
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You can see there, I guess you can see, that clutch adjustment was the root problem. The clutch didn't wear out (maybe - you be the judge here).
Clutches are supposed to need adjustment to prevent slipping. that is the norm. Sometimes the fingers will bend and they'll start dragging, and sometimes people think that as the clutch wears it'll drag. That's not so. As the clutch wears you have to shorten that linkage so that it doesn't slip.
Oh it's smoked. The flywheel side of the friction disc is down to the rivets. The pressure plate side is worn smooth in some spots, but not others.
I knew its adjustment was out of whack, but it being over 30 years old I knew I was gonna replace it anyway. I kinda wanted to see what I could get out of it before having to touch it. Turned out about 2000 miles of cruising, power shifting on country roads, and burnouts did it in. lol
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Got the new flywheel in, clutch installed, trans degreased and installed, along with the shifter and driveshaft. Just gotta do the final adjustment on the clutch pedal.
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Those pics are a help to me :grin:, Thanks. Any tricks a newbie should know about prior to installing one of those?
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Make sure the pilot bushing or bearing is the correct size. Both O.D and I.D. You don't want to install it and find out the input shaft doesn't slide in the pilot bushing or bearing. That will make for a longer day. The clutch disk alignment tool will have some play in it. Snug up the pressure plate bolts a little and move the tool up/down and left/right to find the center of play. Then torque to specs. Cross pattern.
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Those pics are a help to me :grin:, Thanks. Any tricks a newbie should know about prior to installing one of those?
It's pretty simple nuts and bolts. I disconnect the trans from the bell housing and remove it separately.
Installing the flywheel and clutch is a piece of cake. Just reverse the removal procedure. After that, bolt the bell housing in, and next up the trans. That's the hard part, as holding the trans over your head and trying to get the splines lined up can be a bitch. I put the trans in 1st so I could spin the output to turn the input shaft and try and line it all up. You'll get it, but it might take a few tries. I slide the Trans crossmember under it to hold up the weight of the trans while I wrestle with it.
Other than that, just basic stuff. Make sure the clutch disc is facing the right way (it's marked), and make sure everything goes together without binding.
Removing the shifter is a PITA, but it must be done.
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A transmission jack or an adapter for a floor jack helps a lot. I made one for my floor Jack to get my trans in and out fairly easily. The last time I had mine out I could get the alignment tool in but not the trans input shaft. I just had to push the clutch in to free up the disc and allow it to kind of align itself better.
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A transmission jack or an adapter for a floor jack helps a lot. I made one for my floor Jack to get my trans in and out fairly easily. The last time I had mine out I could get the alignment tool in but not the trans input shaft. I just had to push the clutch in to free up the disc and allow it to kind of align itself better.
My trans jack took a dump, which sucks because it's big enough to reach about 6ft up, so I can use the lift. There was no way I was doing it on the ground just because the jack doo doo^ itself lol
It's a good workout.
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Good deal! Pretty impressive to get that many miles out of the car that was parked so many years ago.
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Good deal! Pretty impressive to get that many miles out of the car that was parked so many years ago.
Thanks! I've been driving it as much as possible before it gets stripped and put on the rotisserie
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52481764719_bee3e278f9_h.jpg)