TAC Spotlight => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: wheels78ta on September 26, 2021, 08:57:35 PM
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Going to continue the restoration on my Y88. More to come. Stay tuned.
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1978 Tans Am Y88. 79,500 miles. 400 4 speed. It's been a very slow progress. It is now a shell still sitting on the drivetrain.
I got it home in March of 07.
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Nice looking forwards to seeing progress.
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Great, looking forward to this as well!
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x3
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I hope you like pics.
I started this project back in 2007 but got the 4x4 syndrome and started working on a 1987 K5 Blazer. Plus having to work out of town and overtime. It gave me time to buy parts to do the restore.
I sent my dash to Al Knoch for the restoration, through Second Gen Graveyard. It might get to me by Christmas?
Front seat covers and door panels are ordered with Legendary. Maybe by Thanksgiving?
The car has been disassembled down to the shell. Still a roller but working on that next.
From what I was able to dig up on this Y88, it was bought new at a dealership in Denver, Colorado by an older lady who drove it once in a while. (I have the warranty booklet with the address of the dealer and date sold to the new owner w/her address....says it had 10 miles on the odometer when she picked it up). After so many years and as she was getting older, the 4 speed was becoming a chore to drive so she sold it to her son. He also has a son and they were going to make it their own so that explains the dark brown paint job.
Before they got too involved with the restoration they lost interest and sold it to a dad who wanted to restore it with his son. The dad died and the son sold it to a shop....and that's when I found her. With no carpet.
I've found 2 build sheets.....The best one was found behind the back seat.....says it was built 03-06-1978 and bought 03-14-1978.
The other one was found on the gas tank. It's in very bad shape.
W72 400 and the 4 speed transmission are original. The 400 is down to the block with the pistons. I'm not sure who will rebuild it.
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Before the tear down.........................
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After...........................
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Wow, those floor boards look solid. Is that pretty much a rust free car?
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I thought the same.
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Rust free? Unfortunately, No.
I need to replace the passenger side floor where it looks like there was a heater core leak. I already have the panel for that replacement.
Both sides have rust/rot repair behind the doors. Nothing major.
Both sides have the rust/bubbling in the rear behind the rear tires. Still nothing major but needs repaired.
Other than that it's all surface rust remaining.
I was able to get the unibody frame off the front end plus the passenger leaf spring is off. I'll have it down to just a shell tomorrow so I can start on the body work/rust repairs.
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It is now a shell on homemade 6x6 and 4x4 blocks.
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This is the Driver side front quarter panel. Someone put a piece of metal down inside the panel and welded it in at the bottom.
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This is the Driver side rear quarter panel. Same technique.
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I was able to get the front quarter patch panels from Classic Industries. They arrived today including the gold wheel paint for the 15x8 snowflakes.
The rear quarter patch panels are on back order but I do have them ordered so hopefully in the next 3-6 months.
I've been working on two of the wheels. They've been stripped of paint, sanded and primered. The paint arrived today but I won't get to them until Sunday. Once done I'll post pics.
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Your moving right along on this! Thanks for the updates.
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No such thing as rust free but your car would be considered rust free in my area. Love the updates.
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Snowflake Wheel restoration fun.............................
I got the first wheel taped off and ready for paint......Turned out pretty nice.
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More Snowflake Wheel restoration fun...........................
Still had some paint left over in the first can so I started on the second wheel.
Ran out of paint on first can so I started with the second can.
And something didn't seem right.......the color of the second can was darker than the first? So I shook up the second can for almost 3 minutes straight. Continued with the painting and it still was darker than the first can.......Great
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So I contacted Classic Industries and they gave me credit for both cans and are sending 2 more. I'm positive that the first can was the correct color but I really like the darker gold from the second can. If I'm wrong, and the second can is the correct color, then awesome. If I'm right, then both wheels will need the new paint because I went ahead and painted the first wheel with the darker gold.
One thing I noticed is the different colors of the spray nozzle. The first can had the black sprayer and came with a white sprayer that was sitting in the cap. When I first pulled the cap off the white sprayer fell to the floor. At first I didn't know where the extra came from and wasn't that concerned.
The second can has the white sprayer. And it didn't come with an extra sprayer.
Both labels have the same part number.
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Replacing passenger side floor pan..........................
Looks like there was a heater core leak sometime in the past. After hitting the area with a wire wheel it really started showing it's true colors. There were holes everywhere withing a 8" radius.
I got the new panel trimmed up and almost a perfect match for what I cut out.
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Wheels look nice. Shame about the colour interruption.
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The two replacement snowflake gold wheel paint arrived today. Also received the Eastwood order for the rust treatment and self etching weldable primer.
I was able to get all of the rust removed from the inside firewall and under toe board on passenger side. Plus the front of the rear quarter panel. I had to replace a section on the inner panel lip.....so to speak. It went well for not being a professional welder. I am learning more and more as I go.
I treated all of the areas that were pitted....thankfully there were no holes. Followed all instructions to a tee and now the area is coated with POR15.
One section that is pitted.....the inside firewall where the A/C heater box mounted. There isn't any rust through. And directly on the other side is the VIN numbers showing that it belongs on this car.
I will start welding in the floor toe board and front of the rear quarter this weekend and then some.
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I actually enjoy doing that kind of work, but I have to say I am glad it is behind me at this point.
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I like the wheels and it helps if you start with a good base.
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I was able to get the floor panel welded in. Monday or Tuesday I'll get the welds ground down. Then I'll start welding in the quarter panel section and continue on my quest.
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Looks nice.
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You do great work!
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Nice job on the floor pan. I am envious of people with good welding skills!
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Thank you for all the comments and compliments.
I am learning as I go. My small welder was giving me fits as I was trying to tack weld it in. I'm still making very small adjustments to get it dialed in. It's a Lincoln Handy Mig and can do gas or flux. I like that it has a very low voltage/amperage setting for the thin sheet metal. My other welder is the Pro Mig 180 and would blow holes through the thin metal if I tried using it. The floor replacement is sort of my practice to get ready to do the rear quarter patch panels.
I'm going to build a roller frame/table to put the body on so I can take it outside for some media blasting. I'm hoping to get to it before any freezing temps get here so I can do the bodywork in early spring. I can still bring stuff inside and to the basement if it gets too cold.
Short Story.........kinda
I was 13 at the time and we had just moved into a fairly new neighborhood in Cedar Hill, Texas. The yard was still dirt. And it had rained most of the night. It was around 9:00 am and mom and dad were both at work. A friend of mine came over and was bored and wanted to go do bro stuff. I told him it was too muddy to go hiking up trails or running the creek. You see, it was 1974 and we didn't have all those fancy tech gadgets we have now so we were always outside doing something. Anyway, after much thought, we decided to have a mud fight. That's right.......an all out war. We figured since all we had to do was wash off with the garden hose....Why not? He went to the other side of the street, because that yard was also mostly dirt. And we started hurling mud bombs back and forth at each other. Hitting the house, the garage doors, front doors....if it was in range it got mudded. After a few minutes of mud war two more friends showed up and now it was 2 on 2. The battle was on.
Soon, one of my friends needed to go pee so I told him to leave his mud covered shoes at the door and try not to get any mud inside. My sister, 9 years old, had other plans. She wouldn't let him in. And when he tried to push past her our cocker spaniel nipped at his ankle and he used his foot to push the dog away so he could get back outside. He finally just went around to the side of the house and took care of his business. When he came back we started the mud war again. We were probably into this for about 15 minutes when all of a sudden we heard this tire squealing. It kind of sounded like someone was either drag racing or doing burn outs. Nope. It was my dad. He had just bought a new 1974 GTO, about two weeks ago, and that thing came hauling ass sideways around the corner and into the driveway. (After the little incident with my friend and our dog....My sister called dad and told him that my friend had "kicked" the dog and he was rude to her) He looked at me and said "In the house". Well, needless to say, the war was over. And so was my hide.
Getting more to the point......Ever since I saw that red GTO come around that corner like it was in a high speed chase I fell in love with the shaker hood. It just looked so bad ass with that spectacular view of the angle it was headed. I still have it etched in my mind. And it didn't take long when I noticed the Trans Am. I believe it was a 1974 Trans Am that I saw for my first time. I remember it had the large hood bird. I wanted one but I just couldn't afford it at 13 years old.
I retired May 10th this year and now I have plenty of time to work on this project. When she lets me.
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Time to get my air compressor set up for painting and media blasting.
When I bought this air compressor I didn't set it up like it should have been. I ran soft hose all the way to the hose reel. And when I use air tools it will spit out water after some use. I just kept the air tools oiled and they ran fine. But with wanting to use a media blaster and paint guns I am finally getting it set up right.
I ran a soft hose from the compressor to the wall, about 2 feet, and from there it's 3/4" copper to 3 stations. Station 1 will be for air tools, station 2 will be for painting and media blasting, and station 3 will be for misc. air use.
For station two I bought a HTP Dry Max. It is a 5 stage set up that will keep the line clear of debris and moister. If it works like it should then I'll buy another one for station one.
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I just got the email today that says the Dry Max has shipped but it could take up to two weeks before it arrives. I can't finish station 2, until it gets here, so I can see how far away from the wall it will mount.
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Nice set up!
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Nice progress on your car. I always liked the gold,Y88 cars. Two of my friends purchased them new at the same time. It was kind of a strange coincidence because neither new the other was planning the purchase. Many of these cars were used and abused. It makes me feel good when I see one rescued.
It’s been many years since I have done any painting or body work. A good clean air system is necessary for painting. I don’t think you will ever regret the investment.
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Nice settup. I like that you used copper to run the lines. I did that in my wood shop and when I did my garage I used black iron. Cant tell from what you have but are you planning on putting in a blow off past the coupler at the bottom to drain the drops? I do not have multiples in one location. I put one on each side of the garage so a 20'-50' hose will reach anywhere. I also have a good regulator at the compressor. When I spray I have a really good dryer settup that I will attach to the end of the supply hose, my gun hose which is about 20' hooks up at that point. One other thing I did was get a little portable dryer about half the size of a tube of tooth paste that hooks directly to the gun.
I am sure you have found out, but my regulators and dryers cost more than the compressor.
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The Dry Max showed up today. That was a nice surprise. It'll take the weekend to get it set up. Bowling tournament is going to be the priority for Saturday and Sunday.
Once it's done I'll get some pics on here.
roadking77, I am in the process of getting a good regulator set up at the compressor also. And I'll check on that portable dryer to add to the system. I want this to be as good as I can get for painting and blasting. I think I mentioned it earlier, if not then I want to set my 3 car garage up for some serious work. I'm retired so I have plenty of time to do side jobs.
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Air compressor lines all set up.
Main air regulator close to the compressor.
Air tool use on the left.
Paint and media blasting on the right.
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Got the opportunity to repaint the rims. Classic Ind. sent me two new cans.
Want to guess what the outcome is?
That's right......two different shades of "Snowflake Gold".
The rim on the left is the first can.
The rim on the right is the second can.
The color on the left is the same color that came in the first order. The second can on that order had a lighter color.
So this is what we have so far....................
First order of 2 cans = Dark Gold has 08/10/21 date code
Butterscotchy Gold has 08/09/20 date code
Second order of 2 cans = Dark Gold has 08/10/21 date code
Copper Gold has 03/03/21 date code
So here is what is in the works with Classic Industries. First, they credited me for the first order and sent me 2 more cans. On this latest order they are crediting me again and will send me 2 more cans.
They are going to check the warehouse and look at date codes on their stock and see if they can match the date codes for the Dark Gold color.
Classic Ind. says to give them a couple of days to check this out.
My BIG question is.....................Which one of the 3 different shades of "Snowflake Gold" is correct?
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From my laptop screen I would say the rim on the right is pretty close. The left one looks too dark to me.
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I talked with a tech at OER about the different shades of gold. They didn't seem concerned at all. He told me they have never had an issue like this and that I need to take it up with Classic Ind.
I asked the tech "Which color is correct?". He had no clue. They have no swatches to send so I can't compare the colors. They have a picture on the OER site that shows a painted rim with the can sitting next to it. None of the cans of paint that I received come close to their example.
Time to find another source for snowflake wheel paint.
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I wish you the best of luck. Best bet would be to find an original car or at least an original set of wheels and try to match. All of the old paint formulas are obsolete. I know when I tried to get s.e. gold matched I kept hitting walls. The guys I went to could not translate the old formulas to new. They all told me to get a colour chip and match.
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Got an email from Classic Ind. saying that the only paint on their shelves have a date code of 03/25/21. I told them to issue a refund and I'll find the paint elsewhere. I told Classic Ind. that they did an awesome job trying to help but that I was done with OER.
I mean, give me a break. OER has no care in the world that their paint is not as advertised and they don't want to at least look into it and give me an idea on what color is correct?
I am more confused as to what is the correct color for the Y88 snowflake wheels?
More research but I will prevail!!!!
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I got all the rear quarter panel rusted pieces cut out. Now I can media blast the whole car outside.
And since it's been rainy here I started working on fender repair.
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Looks good. Having done a few fender patches I will say you did a great job!!
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Great work on the fender, been there too. Nice square body you got there too!
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I'm envious of your skills!
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Fenders are now rust free. The body work on them won't happen until they are installed.
Wifey took some pics while I was out media-blasting the underneath.
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Nice to see you are making headway!
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Laying on your back, covered completely and having a hood and respirator whilst media blasting during the summer is one of my favorite things to do :shock: NOT! Hope for your sake that task will be over soon. I was never so happy to be finished working on the bottom side of my car.
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First I want to say it’s always great when someone spends the time and money to rescue these cars. Like others, I have been there and done that, laying on my back media blasting. As I grow older concrete floors get harder. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work, it gives others the incentive to work on their cars!
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60 years old, retired. Yes, concrete isn't as soft as it used to be. I could spend the money and have it done by a body shop. Nah.
When I finish this project I can honestly say that I did this. I will complete most of this on my own. With the exception of getting help from the wife when I need some misc. help. Plus she keeps my cup full of iced tea. She's a real trooper.
Both of my son's will come help if needed but they have a very busy schedule, including raising our grandkids. All it takes is a call or text and they will be here in minutes. When I get to some of the reassembly I'll have them over to help. I want them to be a part of this as well.
We have an 18' x 37' inground pool and that is where I take all my breaks. We had to have the vinyl liner and cover replaced last week.
This has been one expensive year. And working on the Y88 is where the true joy comes from. Can't wait.
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We installed a 16x36 inground 11 years ago, both the liner and cover are showing their age. I haven't got a quote on the liner yet but I exspect it to be expensive....
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Y88's are awesome and worth saving. I had one a few years back, but it was beyond my meager skills. I sold it to someone with the skill and the money to save it.
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You're doing a great job and that car is well worth saving especially if you can say I did it myself.
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Finally got the underneath all blasted and undercoated. The trunk and inside the cab is done.
Now I'm working on getting the other 3 patch panels welded on. Passenger side rear quarter to start.
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That extention/trunk drop off panel looks nice. Not something you see here (Ohio). Sounds like you are making great progress. Keep at it, even finishing one small piece or panel is one step closer to diving your car. I always try to break everything down into small tasks. Have a list that you can cross off also help to motivate you. Gives you a small visual that you accomplished something.
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The first panel I replaced, in front of rear wheel on passenger side, I still need to finish the welding inside the door jamb.
The plan now is to get the driver side panels tack welded in like the one I just did. I'll have 3 panels with a few welds on them to keep them in place.......And then I can go to each one and spread the welding out. It will allow them to cool and keep warpage to a minimum.
Once the patches are completely welded in and ground down.........I'll start on the frame and front end so I can get closer to mounting it back on the body.
It was 107 degrees here today. So I took the day off and became a lounge lizard for a few hours.
Tomorrow I'll start on the driver side.
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Patch looks great!
We have had a heat wave here too, but not 107! It finally broke today with a high expected to be 78.
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We're staying between 95-102 degrees through the week.
Daughter and grandkids coming to visit Tuesday-Thursday.
I'll finish the last of the quarter panel patches tomorrow. Then the body will be ready for some bodywork. I'm going to get the front end and rear axle on before the bodywork.
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All patch panels are welded in.
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Removed rear window today.
Notice the speaker opening on the driver side? It is the only one in the back that has the holes drilled for a speaker. This was ordered that way.
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Does anyone have any tips on removing the torque rods for the trunk lid? It would help a lot to have them out of the way to make it easier to work in that area.
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I have used a small pipe slipped over the one end and used it to release it from the spot. I have also used a really large adjustable wrench to do the same. The wrench is a little scary as it is easy to slip off the rod.I think I even used a box end wrench with the loop slid over the rod like you do when doubling up wrenches for more torque.
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From my laptop screen I would say the rim on the right is pretty close. The left one looks too dark to me.
That's why I would say the one on the left. They were dark and gloomy without the machined spokes, and had the look of a metallic cardboard box, not gold or copper. Only one of them would 'match' the similar paint on the body. Ultimately, it will likely come down to what the extra cans of gold look like as to which gets resprayed!
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Media blasted the rear end and getting ready for paint. The differential had the letter G, orange paint, on top and bottom.
Also replaced the pinion seal and both axle seals.
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Looking really good. just curious, did you lift that rear on the table, "by yourself?" :smile:
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Looking really good. just curious, did you lift that rear on the table, "by yourself?" :smile:
I was going to put it up there by myself but I had a pinched nerve in my lower back that acted up yesterday morning. Anytime I would sit and bend over, while doing any kind of work, it made it hard to stand up. It would take a couple of minutes to work it out then I would be fine.
So this morning I used the engine hoist to help put it on the table. Once I had it ready to paint I did actually arm curl it to my chest and placed it on the jack stands. The pain in my back is almost gone and it's not the first time I had this happen.
I know the engine hoist is the better option but I'm stubborn headed. I like to use what strength I still have to do some of these chores. Only because I know I won't be able to in the future. And when that time comes I'll gladly ask for help. ;-)
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LOL. nothing wrong with a little "exercise" Just make sure you continue to curl it, about 3 reps, for 5 sets, a couple 3 times a week. Then you'll have some gain, and hopefully, not as much pain. I know my days of lifting those are fading fast. :sad: Looking fwd to the final paint on yours.
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Drum brakes are done.
Amazing what the right tools can do to make the job easier.
Before and after.
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Drum brakes are done.
Amazing what the right tools can do to make the job easier.
Before and after.
What-da-ya-mean? Did your vice grips wear out? :grin:
Those primary springs can be a bear, can't they?
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The last time I worked on Drum brakes was about 15 years ago. Needle nosed pliers in each hand.
The pliers in the left hand decided to stab me to the bone on my right hand index finger. :shock:
Never again without the proper tools. And safety glasses. :cool:
Rear axle is complete. Minus the brake clamp that goes on the driver side of the diff. It's around here somewhere. If I don't find it there are aftermarket clamps.
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That differential looks beautiful, too nice to hide under a car LOL! Is that a new rear cover or did you paint it?
In 1970 while in high school I participated in a work study program. I worked half days at a transmission and brake shop. The majority of cars were all drum brakes and I did a lot of them. I still have my 52 year old Craftsman brake pliers. We used compressed air to blow away all the brake dust (in those days we didn’t know asbestos caused cancer). Who knows how much of that stuff I breathed in.
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Good job getting it all back together, and beautified. By the way, does "Rust-oleum" have a clear-coat?
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The diff cover is the original. It had a lot of tiny rust spots so I media blasted it and painted it with a chrome color.
Rustoleum does make a clear coat spray.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-clear-topcoat
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Way cool. Now I can spray over all the rust on my 73s rear, and keep the "patina". :grin:
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Worked on the frame today. Only had some butt pucker moments working on the coil springs.
Got the spring compressor tool from O'Reillys. The spring didn't fit into the grooves 100% but it was safe enough to use.
I'll buy the 4 hook style for when it's time to re-install them.
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Removing motor mounts was painless this way.
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Broke a bolt off in a riv-nut.
I was able to grind down the lip on the outside and remove it. There may be enough room to tack weld a nut on the inside.
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Pertaining to the spring removal, looked pretty scary. Sometimes wrapping a safety chain thru them, gives you a little more piece of mind. Just in case something slips, if ya know what I mean. Congrats getting them out, with all your teeth. Usually, when you're lowering the jack handle, you're not too far away from the action.
The frame will be nice, once it's all cleaned up. Have fun, cleaning and painting. Will like to see the process used during installation, how you square it up.
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If you go with any lowering springs, they usually slip in much easier. Looks like you have a pretty nice frame there, needing minimal work.
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Finally got all the bushings and ball joints removed.
The first pic shows the spacer I used to put inside the control arms. For those that have never removed these......that spacer keeps the arm from crushing in on itself. Unfortunately I forgot to put the spacer in on one of the bushings and realized it after I just started putting pressure on it. Thankfully I was able to use the spacer and a big hammer to open it back to its original opening width.
The second pic is the set up I used. I rented the kit from O'Reillys. The giant c-clamp is not long enough to actually remove the bushings. I can see how it will help to re-install them but I have everything here to do that.
The third pic shows the removed bushing. I found it easier to cut off the rubber part of the bushing on both sides. On the inside part of the controller arm is a lip on the metal bushing. I used a chisel and hammer to push that lip to the center of the bushing. This gave me something to put the large socket on to push it through. After a few harsh words it worked very well.
Now that all bushings and ball joints are removed....and all parts are separated I can start media blasting and painting the whole front end.
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Lots of fun. Are you installing poly bushings?
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Pertaining to the spring removal, looked pretty scary. Sometimes wrapping a safety chain thru them, gives you a little more piece of mind. Just in case something slips, if ya know what I mean. Congrats getting them out, with all your teeth. Usually, when you're lowering the jack handle, you're not too far away from the action.
The frame will be nice, once it's all cleaned up. Have fun, cleaning and painting. Will like to see the process used during installation, how you square it up.
I'm going to use the alignment process from the 1978 Fisher Body Service Manual. If I can't get my hands on a trammel gauge then I will make one out of the materials I have on hand.
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If you go with any lowering springs, they usually slip in much easier. Looks like you have a pretty nice frame there, needing minimal work.
The stock springs will be going back in. And I will use a safety chain, as mentioned by tajoe, to reassemble.
The frame is in very good shape. Any rust is surface rust and should blast easy with the media blaster.
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Lots of fun. Are you installing poly bushings?
I am using the front end rebuild kit by Anderson Restorations. They are same as OEM. Not poly.
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Can't wait to see it all painted up, and installed. Keep em coming.
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Lots of fun. Are you installing poly bushings?
I am using the front end rebuild kit by Anderson Restorations. They are same as OEM. Not poly.
Good move. My car is squeaking now... dang polly
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Frame after media blasting. I also ground down the weld slag......little balls of fire that leaves a good scar on top of your foot.
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Frame alignment:
There are videos about how to line up the frame to the body using a plumb bob. I used this method and it seems to work very well. If your a lot younger then it isn't that big of a deal. For me it was the getting up and down numerous times to get everything lined up and measured. It does take a lot of patience, which I sometimes lack, to get it set and tightened down.
I also used the manual that has the locations and measurements needed to get this done.
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Very Nice Willie. Well done getting it up there. Are you happy with the checks, and cross measurements? What is considered tolerable? 1/8th of an inch? Looks good painted up too.
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Well.... My subframe is probably installed wrong..... I just used alignment pins through the 1/2 holes in the frame into the body. I may have double checked it with a X measurement but don't remember. You frame looks really good. It's so nice to work with clean parts.
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On the driver side......the alignment hole is round, on the body, and lines up almost perfect to the frame alignment hole.
On the passenger side.....the alignment hole is oval, on the body, and does align with the frame but it has that wiggle room for some movement.
All my measurements are within 1/16" of each other or right on the mark, according to the manual, so it should be good to go.
The other day I was attempting to drain the water from the bottom of the air compressor. It was clogged at the ball valve. I took a scribe and poked it into the opening. After a little persuasion the clog broke free and sprayed rusty water all over the frame and firewall. That was a lot of washing and wiping.
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Oh crap! that's sounds like my luck. Sorry you had to go thru "extra" work. Hopefully it all wiped clean easily.
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Subframe looks nice.
I have only removed and replaced the subframe on two different Gen II's, both times just using the 1/2" holes and dowel pins. I never took any measurements to see if it was square. I guess ignorance is bliss!
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Upper and Lower control arms are installed. Amazon delivered my spring compressor late today so I'll get the springs installed tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have all the front suspension in if there's time.
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That frame looks really nice! Curious what you used to paint it with?
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Rustoleum Flat red primer......2 coats
Rustoleum Satin Black.....3 coats
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Taking a break from the Y88 to help a friend.
He has a 16' car hauler that he wants to install a winch on. We worked on it Wednesday and Thursday but need one more day to complete it. That won't happen until early next week. Once the trailer is done and gone I'll continue on my quest.
I found out that the coil spring on the passenger side didn't seat into the frame correctly. I'll have to compress it and get it set right. Once that is done then I'll work on the transmission and engine to get them both installed.
I will rebuild the transmission and clean it up like new.
The engine block still has the pistons installed and I will not mess with that section. I will replace the valve guides/seals in the heads. All new gaskets and paint. Then on to installing the radiator support and fenders, doors, hood and trunk lid.
I want to get this running and driving before body work.
Stay tuned.....more pics to come.
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I'm working on rebuilding the heater/ac box (inside, under dash).
Is there a gasket/seal kit that replaces the foam seals inside the box? The only ones I can find are for non-ac units.
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I'm not sure of current vendors, (maybe Year One, or Ames?...if you haven't tried). But if I remember correctly, I don't think it's anything special. Even the foam Window/ Door seals, that come in rolls, with adhesive backing, sold at most box, or hardware stores, might do the trick. But if you're looking for a concours judged, 100 point show winner, maybe that wouldn't work. Other than that, where it's located, only you would know. (I won't tell, if you don't) :lol:
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Not concours for 100 point show car. I do plan on putting it in a few car shows around here but I'm also going to drive it like I stole it.
I'm a little sad that they make the kits for non a/c but not for a/c cars.
I figured if no one made a kit then I would just use what was recommended.
Roll of foam with adhesive backing will work just fine.
Thanks tajoe.
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Almost done with the heater box. I need to work on the top bracket arm. Sand, primer and paint. But for the most part is it completed.
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Water pump...................this came off of the Y88. Date code says 2C2 = March 02, 1972. And looking at the impeller....It's been rebuilt before.
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Nice. I like the fact the Water Pump P/N has a "301" in it. :)
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I was able to find a water pump with a date code, Dec. 14, 1977, that would be close to the build date, March 3, 1978, for the Y88. I'll rebuild it when weather permits.
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Before and after cleaning the brake/fuel line clamps.
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Brake and fuel lines installed.
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Getting the gas tank cleaned up and ready for install.
In the 2nd and 3rd pic you can see a dent on the inside of the strap groove. I have to wonder.........what the heck caused that? No leak in the area and I'm not going to try and remove it.
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I was checking the distributor to see if it was the original or replacement. Glad to see it is the original W72 distributor. Needs cleaned but that's for another day.
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Not sure if the brand for this radiator is Vista Pro 433477or Proliance 433477. It was in the Y88 when I bought it. 4 row and needs cleaned.
Neither one is in stock so I'm sure it was before the Spectra CU477 came out.
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Going to work on the Rear Defrost switch. The white lettering is easy to rub off. Kind of like fine chalk.
It's going to be too cold here to do any outside painting so this would be a good project to have fun with.
There are stickers, that have the face of the switch, for sale but I wanted to give it a try with paint.
I'll clean it up and put it under a magnifying glass and see if I have a steady hand at painting this small of an object/letter.
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If you can get the knob off the switch you can paint some white onto a piece of glass or metal and flip the bezel onto that so surface touches only, early pad-printing. It would need to be very thin, perhaps going tacky though.
My fuel tank had the same dent, probably twice the size. Looked like someone had backed the car up and not seen a short post or block perhaps. I have a replacement spectra to go in after painting the rear panel so nothing has happened. I stuck a photocopy of the buildsheet back on top even though it has to come back down one day. May not be me doing it.
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After trying to paint these small letters.........and failing.........I came up with another solution.
The wife.
She has a Cricut machine and was able to find the font and size of the letters. Once the letters were cut I placed them on the switch. Sprayed with some clear and......................
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Perfect. Next. :)
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Nice job on the rear window defogger switch. I just reread all your post start to finish and really enjoyed. I give you lots of credit for sticking with such an ambitious project and doing it all first rate.
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Perfect! I have no idea what that machine is, some sort of craft thing?
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Yes....crafts
I got Kim one for Christmas. She likes making door signs, lettering for walls....
It's a cutting machine used to cut different patterns, letters, numbers etc., from a sheet of paper, vinyl or other materials.
A better explanation:
https://sarahmaker.com/what-is-a-cricut-machine/
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Perfect. Next. :)
Nice job on the rear window defogger switch. I just reread all your post start to finish and really enjoyed. I give you lots of credit for sticking with such an ambitious project and doing it all first rate.
Thank you.
This was just an experiment to see if I could make it look decent. The clear is a little to bright so I will probably dull it down a little. Other than that the letters didn't turn out too bad. The cutting machine is new to us so we are still learning what all it can do.
The letters we went with........The "OFF and ON" are size 10.225 in that Font....and the "REAR and DEFOG" are size 10. And I can see a lot of "oops" in the cutting on those letters. I know, I know. And you're right. It's so minute that you can't see it unless you get up close and stare at it. But I worked with the switch under a lighted magnifying glass so I know all the tiny little flaws. I actually think it turned out great. Kim did a wonderful job trying different fonts and styles and finding one that would work for me.
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I finally installed the brake booster. MC coming soon.
Then the next step is to get the transmission and engine ready for the install. This will take some time and I can't wait.
Pics to follow
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Looking good!
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x2
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X3
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Love nice and shiny parts.
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Borg Warner Super T-10 4 Speed porn
Before:
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Getting naked
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Almost fully dressed
The first pic caught me off guard. I put the shift brackets on upside down.
When I was putting it back together it didn't occur to me why the nut for the reverse shift bracket was rubbing on the lower shift bracket. After looking through my disassembly pics I found the error. And took the correct picture....#2
I still need to replace the clutch fork and transmission mount.
The new clutch fork, made by inline tube, doesn't work like it should so I put the old one back on temporarily.
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While waiting on a new clutch fork and transmission mount......I started cleaning up the engine block.
I have a request for a quote, at a machine shop near me, for block work including new pistons.
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Progress is good, Willie. You're now into the meat and potato's. Cool thread. :)
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I talked with Kurt, at United Engine Specialists. Worst case scenario...The whole engine gets rebuilt for $4000. They have a 2 month waiting period just to get it looked at. About 2 weeks after that for the rebuild to be completed.
As far as the engine goes......I would really like to leave the bottom end alone and just have the heads redone. But my gut says a complete rebuild would make me feel more at ease for the future.
I'm leaning toward having it done since I have plenty of other things to fix/clean/repair/paint.
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I wouldn't recommend just a top end rebuild. Once the heads are off an old motor, the cylinders distort from how the rings have worn to know and love. Once the heads get reinstalled, there's a good chance they won't take the same shape, and your rings will be disappointed, and wear out much sooner than B4. Seen it many times in the past, and had it happen to me. The reason some builders or machinist use torque plates, when boring and/or honing. To prevent that. Just my 2 cents.
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I decided, about an hour ago, that I am calling the shop tomorrow to get put on their schedule for the next available. And I'm going to have the block and heads done. I know if I don't have it completely rebuilt I'm going to always wonder WHAT IF?
tajoe......I agree with your input 100%.
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Wow! What a great update! Glad to see this project still moving forward. Good call on the engine work too.
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This project will continue until...............................
1. Completion
or
2. I'm too ill........and pay to have it finished.
or
3. I'm standing at the Pearly Gates.........and she pays to have it finished.
I prefer #1 but it's not my call. I've said in the past that if the world is going to end......at least wait until two days after I finish this restoration. I want one day to burn the tires off, and another day to replace those tires with new......and then go enjoy a long cruise.
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I think you will be glad you went with the engine rebuild.
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I like using the engine stand to mock up the transmission. It sure is a lot easier to adjust the linkage rather than doing it installed in the car.
I don’t think you will regret doing the entire engine now. In the long run probably less expensive and for sure less aggravating then then having to pull the engine back out again. Often shortcuts don’t work out that way.
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I found an engine rebuilder that does pontiac engines. They are 2.5 hours south of us but it will be worth it in the end.
I will take it to them in about 3 weeks and hope to have it back by end of summer.
Until then.......Body work.......stay tuned.
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Hey Willie, you're not talking about "Butler" performance are you? I see that Kansas is located exactly, directly in the middle of the USA. Never knew that till now. Good luck with the motor build, and don't forget to get them to sign a contract.
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Nice set up
Have been dreaming up my own for my restoration
I’ve soldered for years installing plumbing but didn’t think it was strong enough for high air pressure- what’s the first regulator set at for whole system?
The last few years everything is becoming Pex pipe - just wondering if the metal works better for less water in system ?
If you don’t ask - you can only guess…and I don’t have another 40 years for trial and error !
Thanks in advance
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Hey Willie, you're not talking about "Butler" performance are you? I see that Kansas is located exactly, directly in the middle of the USA. Never knew that till now. Good luck with the motor build, and don't forget to get them to sign a contract.
Len Williams Auto Machine........in Bristow, Oklahoma.
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Nice set up
Have been dreaming up my own for my restoration
I’ve soldered for years installing plumbing but didn’t think it was strong enough for high air pressure- what's the first regulator set at for whole system?
The last few years everything is becoming Pex pipe - just wondering if the metal works better for less water in system ?
If you don’t ask - you can only guess…and I don’t have another 40 years for trial and error !
Thanks in advance
First regulator is set at 150 psi. All others are set depending on tools.
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Almost fully dressed
The first pic caught me off guard. I put the shift brackets on upside down.
When I was putting it back together it didn't occur to me why the nut for the reverse shift bracket was rubbing on the lower shift bracket. After looking through my disassembly pics I found the error. And took the correct picture....#2
I still need to replace the clutch fork and transmission mount.
The new clutch fork, made by inline tube, doesn't work like it should so I put the old one back on temporarily.
What is the black plate you have bolted to the bottom of the trans? I assumed that the mounting location with the bolt on the transmission attached directly to the frame crossmember. This part has me concerned as I dont think I have anything that looks like that. I tried pulling up pics of 4 speed cars but this part is unclear in most of them.
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That is the bracket for the catalytic converter. Another bracket bolts to the end of that one to secure the converter in place. I am going to use the "straight pipe" in it's place.
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Perfect! Thank you for the reply. I was in a panic mode as I dont think I have that bracket. I will have to look around in the pile of parts now. At least I know if I ever get my motor ready to install this wont hold me up.
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Ahhh- the look of clean parts after 40 years of grime! Sweet!
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I started working on the doors last week.
One of the previous owners had removed the rivets for the window regulator on the driver door. My guess is to replace the motor. But this motor will be replaced because it is slow going down. The motor in passenger door will also be replaced.
I will also be replacing the door lock actuators in both doors.
So........I removed all the internals except for the handles. They are in good shape so I will keep them as is. The inside of the door is rust free. There were a couple of small areas that needed blasted and now it is primed.
The lower hinge plate, for both doors, was a bit rusty so I used a spot weld cutter and removed the bracket that holds the hinge plate to the inside of the door. Got them both cleaned and painted and tack welded the bracket back in place.
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Looks good. Where are you getting you motors from and what lock system are you using?
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AM-FM 8 Track Radio
I took the radio apart to see what needed attention. Of course the drive belt for the 8 track was a bit stiff. I put battery to it and it spun. It was funny watching the memory of the shape it incurred while sitting for who knows how long. I was able to get the 8 track to play and it sounded decent for 45 years old. I replaced the belt and the light bulb....put it back together and it works just fine. The volume and tuning controls could use a good cleaning but that's for when it quits playing.
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I made a bracket for the new front speaker and used the bracket from the old rear speaker to attach to the new rear speaker.
For the rear speaker connection.......I unsoldered the connector from the old and soldered it to the new.
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Looks good. Where are you getting you motors from and what lock system are you using?
The window motors are from "factoryalliance"...ebay.
The door lock actuators are from "allautomotive"...ebay.
What do you mean "lock system"?
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I was thinking you were adding locks. I wasn't thinking you had them already.
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That's great that you got the 8 track to work, now you just need to find 8 track tapes :lol:
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LOL. I can help with that. :lol:
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I bought an Eagles "Hotel California" tape, about 3 years ago, and used it to test the unit. Found out that the tape foam is shot and wouldn't work. So I just bought a Kansas "Dust in the Wind" tape that stated in the ad it was refurbished.....and it works.
I'll get the 8 track repair kit and hope to fix the Eagles tape.
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Wow, you are digging into everything. Congrats on the progress!
Stereo works, so you can make a tape of engine sounds to hold you over 'till the engine rebuild is done. (I'm teasing, of course.)
I remember that, while I was waiting on the body and paint to get done on my car, smaller projects (Like refurbishing the stereo) were very rewarding.
Keep at it! And, thanks for taking the time to share your progress.
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I think its great that you got the 8 track working. I have both an original radial and 8 track in my car but never bothered to get them hooked up, laziness I suppose and on the to do list. I dont know how old you are and if you had the pleasure of 8 tracks when they were current but they werent all that great. Make sure you keep a book of matches handing to use as a wedge! LOL.
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I've had better success with my 8 tracks, (even now) than a stupid "echo dot", I was given as a Christmas gift a couple yrs ago. The "Wi-Fi signaled computer controlled speaker won't pick up any waves from my cellar workshop, or detached garage, which both aren't any further away than 15-30 feet, from the router. Even tried an extender, but 1/2 the time I ask "Alexa, are you awake?", only to be annoyed with the answer..."sorry, the internet isn't available". Very frustrating.
And if I forget to unplug the Echo dot from the wall, sometimes my desk top audio won't play, but the channel chosen on my computer, will be playing on the dot, down cellar, or in the garage. So in order to hear the volume on my desk-top, I'll need-ta go out, and unplug the cord to the echo. Countless times since I was given it. It unfortunately went for a flight across my cellar the other day, and now...my 8 tracks are back in play.
Sometimes modern technology isn't all it's cracked up to be.
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I bought an Eagles "Hotel California" tape, about 3 years ago, and used it to test the unit. Found out that the tape foam is shot and wouldn't work. So I just bought a Kansas "Dust in the Wind" tape that stated in the ad it was refurbished.....and it works.
I'll get the 8 track repair kit and hope to fix the Eagles tape.
Congratulations on getting your eight track to work. A long time ago I repaired a lot of damaged 8 track cartridges. I used to see them lying on the ground at stop lights. I would cut out the damaged area (stretched tape) and splice the tape back together with a 1/4" magnetic tape splicer. They used to be readily available, today maybe you can find a used one. In a pinch you could use a razor blade and scotch tape, not as easy, but it will work. Its also important to have the right tension on the tape in the cartridge, kind of a trial and error method until you have done it a few times.
I know it's dated technology, but in their day, I thought eight tracks were pretty good. Probably nobody else will know what I am talking about, but I installed a quadraphonic 8 track tape player in my 73 TA, back in 1973. I have fond memories of listening to Santana Abraxas, nice spatial sound. A fad that came and went pretty quickly and it seemed like a limited choice of albums were available.
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I'm in the process of cleaning up/repairing all of the wiring harnesses.
The one I'm working on now is the wiring that has the gray convoluted tubing protecting it. The diagram below has the junction circled in yellow.
1. 16 Blk Fusible Link.....from that junction to 12 Red to the bulkhead connector. (No fusible link)
2. 18 GRN DK Fusible Link......from that junction to 14 Red/Blk to the bulkhead connector. (Has fusible link...with splices...not connected)
Does anyone have a pic of a similar harness that would show the actual set-up?
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I know it's been awhile since the last post. For the past 3 months we've been replacing about 200 feet of wood on the pergola and decks. Plus some shed refurbishing and lots of painting and staining.
Can anyone answer the previous question about the wiring?
I'm taking the engine down to Oklahoma, Len Williams Machine Shop, Wednesday. He's going to "Wake Up" the 400, so to speak. We've talked about the plans on what I'd like to have done. He's going to set it up like one of his 400 Long Blocks that he sells on his site. He's been doing pontiac engines for decades and knows his stuff.
http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/400_Long_Block.html
Keeping the 6X heads, manifold and carburetor. The heads and carburetor will be rebuilt to match the new set up.
When all is said and done the 400 should be cranking out around 385 HP and 435 Lb Torque.
Yes.....I would love to have more horsepower.....who wouldn't? But more HP would mean different heads, manifold, etc. And I want to keep it stock looking. Plus the extra HP would get me in more trouble than I need. Tee Hee.
Now that a lot of the at home repairs are done I'm going to start the body work on the Y88. Then paint. Hoping to have it all done by next spring. Engine should be done by then depending on parts.
Once the body work starts I'll have plenty of pics available for critique. Be gentle. :D
Back to the wiring issue. If anyone has any pics or more info on the wiring please post it up.
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I can't help with the wiring. I solved my '69 Firebird issues last year- I bought a headlight-to-taillight American Autowire harness and all my little gremlins left at the same time. Multiple splices over the past 53 years as well as wiring insulation degradation made for some weird lighting and gauge operation.
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I can't help with the wiring. I solved my '69 Firebird issues last year- I bought a headlight-to-taillight American Autowire harness and all my little gremlins left at the same time. Multiple splices over the past 53 years as well as wiring insulation degradation made for some weird lighting and gauge operation.
Well.....actually, you did help on the wiring.......I'm buying that section of the engine harness to replace the old. Better safe than sorry. :grin:
I'm also going to replace the stock exhaust manifold for the Ram Air manifolds. The one thing I see with the Ram Air manifolds is they only have four holes for installing compared to six with the originals.
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Where did you find them? I thought they were near impossible to find now
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If you're referring to the exhaust manifolds......
https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/factory-headers/d-port-head.html
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I was, thanks. I thought they disappeared.
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Before tearing down the Y88 for restore.......I tested the power window motors and the door lock actuators.
Passenger side window motor was slow going up or down.
Driver side power door lock actuator would only lock. Found out why today.
It seems the factory missed the indents for drilling the holes for the actuator. By about an inch.
The first pic shows where the top of the actuator would hit the inside of the door and make it hard for it to unlock.
So I welded up the holes and drilled where the indents are.
After I moved it to where it should be.....the actuator is now clear of any obstacles.
All looks better now.
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More.
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Nice job. Funny how they missed the target by that much!
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According to the Vacuum line routing diagram.........and from what was removed on the engine......there are two tees in the run.
One of the tees is a hard plastic and white.....The other tee is metal. Is the metal one a replacement or is it correct?
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There is a vacuum hose reducer in one of the vacuum hose routes.
It doesn't show up on any of the vacuum diagrams.
Where does it hook up to?
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Thanks for the input Ben. I took a screenshot of this, because I won't remember where it is on here, and put in my Vacuum Hose folder.
I talked with the engine builder and he is hoping to have it done by end of year. I found a shop that is going to do the flywheel resurfacing. It should be done in 2 weeks. Then it goes to the builder.
Also.....pics coming soon of parts cleaning and painting.
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Looks like that is my last option. Find someone with an original setup and ask for picks of those areas you mentioned.
Thanks Ben.
It is possible that the reducer was installed for a splice.....maybe they didn't have any extra hose laying around and found that piece to make one hose. But I see two different size hoses so I'm leaning toward it actually being correct somewhere in the run.
***Does anybody here, or someone you know, have a 1978 Trans Am 400 4 speed that is untouched in the vacuum line department.***
I'm not sure if it matters whether it was W72 optioned or not.
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I have a couple of diagrams of the 1978 400 4 speed and it only shows the two tee sections. No reducer in the Vacuum line from the DS-TVV to the distributor. If that is where it should be.
Ben....do you have a pic of the GM diagram showing this reducer on the distributor vacuum line? This is one of the diagrams I have.
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Kerry (roadking77) and I sometimes work on cleaning and painting identical parts such as brackets and pulleys, fan blade and clutch etc.
I wont post any of those from this side because they look exactly like Kerry's. Excellent job.
But I did get the hood hinges and seat frames done so here they are:
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Seat Tracks
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Front Seat bottoms
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Front seat backs........
It is common for the driver front seat to have a lean, on the left side, at least from what I've experienced. And I found part of that problem. I can't find the pics of the seat back after the foam was removed but there really wasn't any rust, very minimal if any.
That section of the seat was warped out of position because of that crack in the metal. Once I got a few tack welds in place the seat back is no longer leaning back. This crack usually happens about 4 inches below the seat belt retainer bracket.
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Very nice work on on the hinges, seat tracks and seat assemblies! I am always impressed when people put a lot of work in making something perfect, especially on things that are hidden from view when reassembled.
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Thank you.
I'm retired which gives me a lot of time to do these things. I'm not a perfectionist by any means but sometimes I try.
Rear upper seat.........Not sure what the black rope was for.
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Nice work on those parts. I have been staring at my hinges on the shelf for years now. Recently have been thinking it may be time to get to work on them, BUT I really want to get my motor finished up and running before I sidetrack myself.
I am with you on getting everything as nice as possible, seen or not. Good suggestion on the broken seat back, will have to look at mine closely when the time comes. Looks like you re-used the seat wires. No idea what mine look like but I bought new for my 77 from someone on here years ago.
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Those turned out great
Nice work!!
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Did you get a chance to measure the nylon bushes in the seats where they hinge?
Appears the reducer orifice valve is only on the Auto models. Diagram was labelled incorrectly.
I got the measurements today..... :D
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After reading through FormTA's thread on his spoilers not holding their shape I decided to bring mine in from the attic and check them out.
Some of my spoiler pieces were in a box labeled "Spoilers". I opened it up and look what I found.
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I'll be adding two more front pieces, from roadking77. They should be here Thursday. Thanks Kerry.
I guess I'll have some extras to clean up and keep on the parts shelf. ;-)
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Glad I could help! If you're interested in letting a piece go. I am in need of pretty much all window trim for my formula so anything will help. If not no biggie as I'm not to that project yet. Really glad you found them though!!
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Well he had his name on a set I was going to send to him once I figured out how to package it appropriately but since he found his I have a rear set if you’re interested Luke. I’d have brought it with me the other day had I known lol.
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Glad I could help! If you're interested in letting a piece go. I am in need of pretty much all window trim for my formula so anything will help. If not no biggie as I'm not to that project yet. Really glad you found them though!!
I don't need all of these trim pieces. I'd be happy to help. If you and Brian get something worked out I can help with the rest.
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Man, that looks great! Contaminants can ruin a man day really quickly!
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Regarding the R.etard Delay Orifice. Research says it is only used on the automatic engines. So I will not be using it on the 4 speed. It will be a straight through hose to the distributor.
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My engine rebuilder, Len Williams, called and said the engine is done. We'll head down next week to pick it up. Pics to follow.
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Engine is back home.
It's set up for 385 HP. Same as his site for the 400 Long block. http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/400_Long_Block.html
I'll get the valve covers polished in the next few days.
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Nice stout figure for a street cruiser. Headers or cast manifolds? Any idea of torque rating?
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Torque rating is around 425 lb-ft.
I'm going to use the Ram Air II headers and exhaust from Ram Air Restoration.
https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/factory-headers/rm-1-os-dport-ram-air-factory-headers-pair-for-64-67-gto-lm-73-79-lm-71-79-cat-granville-all-g-body-with-poncho-v8-2153.html
https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/complete-exhaust-systems/uesys-1-ultimate-exhaust-system-2-5-with-x-over.html
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Going to be pretty loud.
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School me.......How loud is "pretty loud". I do not want a very loud exhaust. If their exhaust system is too loud then I'll have one custom made with quieter mufflers.
All input is very appreciated.
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Torque rating is around 425 lb-ft.
I'm going to use the Ram Air II headers and exhaust from Ram Air Restoration.
https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/factory-headers/rm-1-os-dport-ram-air-factory-headers-pair-for-64-67-gto-lm-73-79-lm-71-79-cat-granville-all-g-body-with-poncho-v8-2153.html
https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/complete-exhaust-systems/uesys-1-ultimate-exhaust-system-2-5-with-x-over.html
Just curious why these are labeled as RAII manifolds? RAII is 68 round port. The photo of the manifolds are D port. On the photo of the pipes, it shows a round port gasket, and a log manifold D port gasket. With your 6X heads, aren't you using RAIII D port manifolds?
By the way, been away for a while, and looks like you're making good progress. Nice.
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Those short box mufflers are pretty loud and may not flow that great.
I am running 17749 Dynomax (Formerly "Hemi") mufflers on that setup shown - X pipe and full tailpipes. Not as quiet but a hell of a lot better than Dronemasters on sounds and flow.
https://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/exhaust.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17749?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands%20%7C%20D&utm_term=4581733674156216&utm_content=GSAPI%205ba263233d6fc
https://youtu.be/9RDBMtxG7Fc
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Those short box mufflers are pretty loud and may not flow that great.
I am running 17749 Dynomax (Formerly "Hemi") mufflers on that setup shown - X pipe and full tailpipes. Not as quiet but a hell of a lot better than Dronemasters on sounds and flow.
https://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/exhaust.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17749?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands%20%7C%20D&utm_term=4581733674156216&utm_content=GSAPI%205ba263233d6fc
https://youtu.be/9RDBMtxG7Fc
Before I seen your reply I just viewed the youtube video. I do like the sound and not too loud. I may just piece together everything, except the mufflers, from ramairrestoration, and possibly use the 17749's.
Going to do more research before anything is bought and paid for.
Thanks for the info.
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Were I to do your exhaust I would use 2-1/4" mandrel pipe, no X crossover and the transverse case Dynomax.
Why smaller pipe? Don't really need 2-1/2", and using RA3 manifold with 2-1/2" downpipes is a PITA. Fitment is far easier with smaller pipes along with ground clearance, and when I went from 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" on my Lemans with the same type of mufflers it got MUCH louder. To me, all a loud exhaust does is call attention to hoonish action to the guys with blue lights.
I would maybe even stick with the logs - on lower HP apps they do not lose much power and are considerably lighter and cheaper.
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I have the original exhaust manifolds and they're in good shape.
Thanks for the input.
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For now.....going with the Ram Air manifolds, down pipes, x pipe and end pipes. Still working on the muffles/resonators.
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1102854 63 amp Delco alternator before rebuild
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1102854....now 100 amp after rebuild
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Rebuilding the BW Super T-10 4 speed shifter. One of the insulator pads is coming out at the bottom of the handle so decided it was necessary. Parts will be here by end of week.
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Pretty straightforward job with the shifter. I did mine a few years ago. Are you taking the carrier apart as well?
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Yes....everything will be done. The kit is a complete rebuild including the springs and pads.
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Watched a few videos to work on the shifter. This guy does the break down of the shifter and assembly. He made his own tools and bracket to work on the carrier. I have some steel scrap that I used for the bracket and bought a couple of putty knives to copy what he did. Worked out great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EU9wj4vgdY&ab_channel=EricCrashDavidson
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Ram Air Restorations RAII exhaust manifolds.
Driver side/LH
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Passenger side/RH
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To go along with the Pypes exhaust system.....