Recent Posts

1

Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Brake Help

« Last post by glhx on Today at 02:12:38 AM »

I have this system and I have had a very hard time getting it bled. The fronts bleed fine.
The back passenger side as well.

The drivers side keeps pulling in air and I think it’s pulling it into the caliper from the parking brake system.

If you can get this bled. Please post and let me know what you did and where you got your parts from.

My whole system is all new. All the hoses, brake lines, calipers and master are new

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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Brake pedal sticking to the floor with delayed release.

« Last post by glhx on Today at 02:08:57 AM »

Yeah, I’m bleeding it myself.

I have long runs of 3/16” tubing tightly sealed to the bleeder screw.
They run the length of the car back into the master cylinder.

When you bench belled a master cylinder. You run the master cylinder outlets back into the reservoir.

I’m doing the same thing. I’m just doing that with the entire braking system.

I should be able to pump as many times as I want and the air finally bleed out of the whole system.


The Teflon tape was only used to seal the threads with the bleeder screw open. And just for this style of bleeding. Because a loose screw can pull air back into the threads. This Teflon tape prevents this. Toy don’t leave the tape there permanently. It’s just for this style of bleeding for air creeping into the threads. Some people use grease to do this but grease is ineffective. This is a very solid way to bleed a system. Probably the best way but not commonly done because it uses a lot of extra fluid to fill the hoses. I’ve used it many times. It’s a sure way to get every little particle of air out. Only a pressure bleeder might be better. It’s basically bench bleeding the whole car instead of just the master cylinder. Same concept.

However……I added a bleeder screw that was drilled out. This closed off the threads and no tape was used. It just allowed free flow out of the screw into my long run of 3/16” tubing. I only did this and got rid of the tape, so I wouldn’t have the tape to blame. The threads were sealed tight. This 3/16” hose was sealed tight.

I also did this with a 2 person style. The normal way……
Just to prove it’s air coming in from somewhere else.
And here…..right here. Shows the problem. The air still crept in even with the normal 2 person style. I still had the hose sealed to the bleeder screw so I could watch the air come out. This shows for certain there is air coming in the system. I just don’t know where yet.

There can be only a few places.
The passenger side rear line with its 2 connections.

Or the 3 seals in the caliper.
The parking brake seal on the shaft.
The piston ratcheting o ring
Or the main piston seal.

It’s a complicated caliper

I haven’t taken the caliper apart yet. Often times the rebuild these and leave the pits in the caliper. Sometimes they leak fluid.

But these were 2 new calipers from oreilly. They shouldn’t leak.

I’m just seeing if anyone else has had this problem specifically. I’ve seen the Eldorado guys have it a few times but nothing really came of it.

I’ve also seen where they put front calipers on the back and get rid of the parking brake all together.
I’ve got a good parking break adjustment. I just can’t get the system to not pull air every time I step on the brake 6 times.

3

Interior / Re: Formula wheel resto

« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 09, 2024, 09:24:52 PM »

Cool, thanks for posting. That does look good. I haven’t had time to mess with that wheel yet. Surprisingly the other one I did the same way isn’t cracking. It’s not as soft though either

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Projects & Restorations / Re: 77TA Resto Reboot - a long journey to an LS swap

« Last post by stros on May 09, 2024, 07:50:35 PM »

I missed researching parts and working on the T/A so I decided to upgrade the sound system with some new 6.5” kick panel and rear 6x9 Infinity Reference speakers.  They just arrived.  I’ll install them over the weekend. 

I added some similar speakers recently in my Gladiator and they were really impressive for the price.

The T/A is driving well and I’ve had a chance to get some freeway miles on the LS3 recently.  We’re starting to go back into the office much more frequently now so I’ll have some more chances to drive it to work.  Gives me some incentive to go in.

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Projects & Restorations / Re: Madaguy 1955 Nomad Build

« Last post by FormTA on May 09, 2024, 05:28:56 PM »

Ryan, here is the jet ski grab strap and lettering I did like 4-5 years ago with SEM black dye. It sits in the sun and water all summer. It has really held up good. I just thought I'd post so if others read this thread and want to know. SEM is a great product in my book.



I can delete this if you don't want it in your thread.

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Interior / Re: Formula wheel resto

« Last post by FormTA on May 09, 2024, 05:22:50 PM »

I was getting the jet skis out today and thought I would look at the condition of the black SEM dye I used on the seat like 4 or 5 years ago.  Still looks great! The seat strap is stretchy and it seems perfectly fine.

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Lobby / Re: Today I... "Redux Edition"

« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 09, 2024, 02:53:30 PM »

That thing is cool man. Thanks for posting the pics

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Lobby / Re: Today I... "Redux Edition"

« Last post by 72projectbird on May 09, 2024, 10:08:25 AM »

Been busy with the Humvee. I completely did the interior in bedliner, recovered the seats in black, and painted it BC/CC Jet black. I then had the original USAF markings remade and installed them as a nod to the trucks previous life. I also scored a deal on used 37" Coopers, so I picked up some new 17" rims and mounted those up.

20240419_143007 by Argo Noneya, on Flickr

20240427_164630 by Argo Noneya, on Flickr

20240427_165338 by Argo Noneya, on Flickr

9

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by ryeguy2006a on May 09, 2024, 08:21:30 AM »

That's nice that the Sniper2 comes standard with a 2 bar MAP and 100 lb. injectors. They must have designed it with boost in mind. I'm sure there are cheaper options out there, but not sure you will find anything else with as much support as Holley right now. Not specifically from Holley, but there are so many users that you'll be able to find a tuner in the event that you get stuck. You don't give yourself as much credit as you deserve. While the boost is new, it's really not that complicated. Some people can make it complicated by adding boost controllers, or methanol or dial-a-boost settings. When you really break it down, there are only a few components and keeping it simple will help. Wastegate goes in the exhaust before the turbo and will control your boost level based on the spring you have. BOV will prevent over boosting the engine when the throttle blades are closed and the turbo is still spooling. If you allow the Sniper2 to control the timing, you can set it up to pull timing as boost goes up. Generally you want to pull a few degrees of timing as the boost pressure increases. Lots of the turbo LS guys are using a 12-12 rule, 12* of timing with 12 lbs. of boost. If you are running 3-5 lbs. of boost, I'd just pull out maybe 5-6 degrees of timing around full boost. N/A AFR should be around 12.5 at WOT or 100 kPA, and with boost you'd want to lower the AFR several points. My LSA engine was happy with 12.5 around 11psi of boost, so it really depends on the feedback from the ECU and if the motor feels happy.

10

Interior / Re: Finally some interior upgrades

« Last post by N PRGRES on May 09, 2024, 06:23:22 AM »

My goal was to appear as close to "stock" as possible.  The original plan was to use the same fabrics as the 81, but the cost that SMS wanted for the material was way over my budget, so I went this route.  The seats also use a dark thread to pull in the dark maroon dash and center console.