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Visitors Center / Re: Show unread posts button
« Last post by Wallington on Today at 05:49:48 AM »Easier just to automatically come to the gossip section, rarely any posts on topic.
For all Firebird - Trans Am Enthusiasts
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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Show your stance (round 2)
« Last post by N PRGRES on Today at 05:31:40 AM »A side shot. Not my favorite photo. Shows how bad the paint really is
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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Brake Help
« Last post by glhx on Today at 05:27:22 AM »I’m at the point where I’m going to have to isolate and cap the system. Possible trying to use a union and putting a bleeder screw at the union. Right before the passenger side caliper.
The calipers have 3 seals in them. The shaft seal, the piston seal, and a large seal inside the piston.
The rebuild kit comes with 2 of these and not the third one. It does not come with the seal for the ratcheting system inside the piston. Which makes me wonder if these rebuilders are using kits and not replacing that one. At first I thought it was an o ring, but it’s not.
The yellow seal on the outside of the piston is a check valve of sorts. It’s easy to take off. You should be able to blow into that hole and it should be sealed. Because of the large seal inside the piston that seals all of that.
If any of those are pulling in air due to pitted metal, Bad clearances, or cheap parts, I can see where a caliper will pull in air. I’m thinking the shaft seal is where. Mainly because I saw an air bubble come out of it when I was adjusting the e brake lever. I looked over it and thought Since it was a new caliper, that it would be fine.
I’m pretty sure my calipers are pulling in air. So I will plug that line and isolate that caliper. However, it’s the second new caliper.
And how long till that seal doesn’t seal. A month later it might decide to fail. So I’m at my last with this.
I’ve got few options. If I can’t buy new parts and solve these problems. What does that leave.
I’m going to take apart the caliper and inspect the rebuild.
See if I can test the caliper off the car with a vacuum pump or pressure bleeder and see if it drains down air.
Which I did for the whole system. I pumped it up with no fluid in the entire system. At 12psi it started leaking down air.
Then I bought a lot of fittings to cap the system and isolate to find out why. There is not a lot of pieces to do this. But I think I have enough.
I’m thinking I will find the caliper is not sealing. I’m pretty sure
Then what? If I can’t buy new parts and not have problems with them. What does that. Leave
I can entertain a couple of options.
……..Change out the whole rear end with one from a different care that has a drum in hat system
……..put drum brakes on it which I know won’t leak
……..put in non e brake calipers back there if I can find ones that bolt up
……..get a really expensive brand with a better design.
Like I said…….im at the end of trying to mess with this.
The calipers have 3 seals in them. The shaft seal, the piston seal, and a large seal inside the piston.
The rebuild kit comes with 2 of these and not the third one. It does not come with the seal for the ratcheting system inside the piston. Which makes me wonder if these rebuilders are using kits and not replacing that one. At first I thought it was an o ring, but it’s not.
The yellow seal on the outside of the piston is a check valve of sorts. It’s easy to take off. You should be able to blow into that hole and it should be sealed. Because of the large seal inside the piston that seals all of that.
If any of those are pulling in air due to pitted metal, Bad clearances, or cheap parts, I can see where a caliper will pull in air. I’m thinking the shaft seal is where. Mainly because I saw an air bubble come out of it when I was adjusting the e brake lever. I looked over it and thought Since it was a new caliper, that it would be fine.
I’m pretty sure my calipers are pulling in air. So I will plug that line and isolate that caliper. However, it’s the second new caliper.
And how long till that seal doesn’t seal. A month later it might decide to fail. So I’m at my last with this.
I’ve got few options. If I can’t buy new parts and solve these problems. What does that leave.
I’m going to take apart the caliper and inspect the rebuild.
See if I can test the caliper off the car with a vacuum pump or pressure bleeder and see if it drains down air.
Which I did for the whole system. I pumped it up with no fluid in the entire system. At 12psi it started leaking down air.
Then I bought a lot of fittings to cap the system and isolate to find out why. There is not a lot of pieces to do this. But I think I have enough.
I’m thinking I will find the caliper is not sealing. I’m pretty sure
Then what? If I can’t buy new parts and not have problems with them. What does that. Leave
I can entertain a couple of options.
……..Change out the whole rear end with one from a different care that has a drum in hat system
……..put drum brakes on it which I know won’t leak
……..put in non e brake calipers back there if I can find ones that bolt up
……..get a really expensive brand with a better design.
Like I said…….im at the end of trying to mess with this.
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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Red Head Steering
« Last post by N PRGRES on Today at 05:17:19 AM »I have the box in but have not driven it yet. I will say that so far the customer support has been outstanding. I sent the box back with the pitman arm attached as it just wasn’t coming off. Cost me $10 for them to remove it and send it back. I also had a few questions on break in and they were polite and took the time to make sure I was doing it right.
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Lobby / Re: Current picture of your project or finished car.
« Last post by N PRGRES on Today at 05:13:54 AM »Front and rear PTFB GT suspension (springs), new gas tank and sender, new lower arms and new tubular upper arms with the longer PTFB ball joints. Koni shocks all around. PTFB aluminum solid body bushings. Alignment and shims this morning. Trying to ready it up for FirebirdFest 4 in a week. Still have a few things I want to do to it before the trip.
Did you just replace the sender with a stock unit? Do you have any needle fluctuations as you drive? Mine seems to move about 1/4 tank back and forth as I drive.
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Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)
« Last post by FormTA on Today at 03:36:34 AM »Thanks for the info. My memory is getting worse... You ate correct as the 79s don't have a air pump. I will have to weld each of those lines closed or make up some threaded plugs to block those off. I haven't looked close enough but doesn't the tubes go into the exhaust manifolds not tye heads?
If they go into the manifolds it may not matter as I will probably be swapping those out for something else to pipe the turbo.
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Lobby / Re: Current picture of your project or finished car.
« Last post by kentucky yeti on May 16, 2024, 06:35:53 PM »Mike, that’s a pretty serious suspension upgrade. When you get a chance I would love to hear your critique on the changes to handling and ride.
320 miles today at FirebirdFest. So far I think it’s the best investment I’ve made with this car.
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Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)
« Last post by 5th T/A on May 16, 2024, 01:52:13 PM »
Apparently there were some 1979 engines that made it into 1980s cars...?? I have heard on a few occasions of 1980 cars with 1979 style engines in them. The 1980 engine I have cam from a forum member with under 10K miles. Pretty sure it was original to the car.
Luke, looking at the cowl tag, my car had a build date of 09C (3rd week of September). I am pretty sure I matched the VIN number with the serial number stamped on the engine. I looked for and could not find any T stampings on the engine, for whatever that is worth. I think I read somewhere that heads were slightly different on 1980 cars for the air injection system, or maybe the 79's didn't have it? The engine was quiet and smooth running. Not a powerhouse but would give me a little tire squeak from a dead stop.
The engine had 7200 miles on it when removed from the car. I really did not touch the engine other than to replace the original fuel pump, it did not have any issues, but I was concerned that a 40-year-old rubber diaphragm might fail. A previous owner did replace the plugs and wires (did a lousy job with the plug wires). I pulled the rocker covers off to inspect, they were leaking a little oil. With covers removed the engine was very clean, looked like new. I think the factory used RTV, I would use gaskets.
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Exterior / Re: Hood alignment. My next impossible mission.
« Last post by rkellerjr on May 16, 2024, 01:10:07 PM »When I took off the entire front end and doors of my car when I replaced the floor boards, I looked at what I had to do put it back together and sat down for a minute and said, "serenity now, serenity now" then got to work. My story may or may not help but...
I first put the doors on without the striker. Got it all aligned, yammed those door hinge nuts tight, then added the striker. I then aligned the fenders and front end, then the hood. Making minor adjustments as needed. And ya, I did this mostly by myself. In the end, my hood closes fine but the rear sticks up (it didn't before I started) but a little downward pressure and they go down. I've yet to figure out why.
I think aligning the door without the door striker is the way to go, once it opens and closes "in alignment" then put the striker back on adjusting so that the door closes perfectly into the striker and the striker doesn't lower or raise the door. Takes a bit to do but that was the easiest way for me to align the doors.
If I were closer I'd come over and we'd gitter done quick.
I first put the doors on without the striker. Got it all aligned, yammed those door hinge nuts tight, then added the striker. I then aligned the fenders and front end, then the hood. Making minor adjustments as needed. And ya, I did this mostly by myself. In the end, my hood closes fine but the rear sticks up (it didn't before I started) but a little downward pressure and they go down. I've yet to figure out why.
I think aligning the door without the door striker is the way to go, once it opens and closes "in alignment" then put the striker back on adjusting so that the door closes perfectly into the striker and the striker doesn't lower or raise the door. Takes a bit to do but that was the easiest way for me to align the doors.
If I were closer I'd come over and we'd gitter done quick.
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Exterior / Re: Hood alignment. My next impossible mission.
« Last post by 79 Moneypit on May 16, 2024, 12:56:19 PM »On my 79, I rebuilt the door hinges with the commonly available bushing and pins. The driver's door still dropped when opened. As much as I hated doing it, I bought billet
Ring Brothers hinges and they made a night and day difference. Unfortunately, I ended up having to buy them for the hood too, after one set of reproductions and the worn-out
originals wouldn't work. These hinges were also a great improvement, but it sure is tough coming off the money for hinges.
Ring Brothers hinges and they made a night and day difference. Unfortunately, I ended up having to buy them for the hood too, after one set of reproductions and the worn-out
originals wouldn't work. These hinges were also a great improvement, but it sure is tough coming off the money for hinges.
