My Tenth Anniv.

[ryeguy2006a]

Wow, you do such a nice job on your restorations! Everything looks fantastic, keep up the good work.

[FormTA]

Looks great! I wonder which is better? I really don't know. I found a copper one from somewhere as I was afraid to try the aluminum. The copper one was in the car so that's what I put back (as I didn't want to have to do it aging on my lifetime). They make aluminum radiators so they have to be good, right? This is purely a thought I ponder not a bash on you putting in an aluminum unit.

[5th T/A]

Heater box looks better than new. One less thing to worry about!

Regarding what material is better or best, I don’t know! I actually thought they used to use copper tubes and brass fins. I do know all modern high efficiency radiators are made of aluminum. I have heard it could be cost factor but also that long life antifreeze doesn’t like copper. Forever AC evaporators and condenser coils have been made out of aluminum.

[sreta]

I don't know about aftermarket unit, but original heater core has copper core and the rest is brass.

[roadking77]

The one I took out was copper. In all fairness I think the $130 part from Ames is said to be copper. My car doesnt get that much use in the winter so honestly I could care less if the heat is efficient or not. It doesnt even work in my black car and I have gotten along just fine. I had the same thought regarding the fact that radiators are aluminum but then I wondered is that because there is more heat loss to make it more effective! Not what you would really want for a heater core. In the end, its still the same hot water flowing through, with the air moving across the fins so I cant see it making any difference. No one will ever be seeing it so Im not afraid to loose a point in judging

[roadking77]

20240425_141626 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Under dash duct had a hole in it patched up with duct tape. I had a few free minutes so I figured I would try to fix rather than get a new one (I looked on Franks website and they have nothing currently). I thought I had a full set of duct work but after a search around the shop I came up empty. Fortunately the pieces broke off fell inside the part so I was able to patch it back together and then I fibreglassed over. It was kind of messy, so I followed up with some flex filler, then fillable primer from Rustoleum, then some rustoleum satin black. I then used SEM clear satin on top. I was surprised the SEM didnt react with the Rustoleum. Its not perfect but once its tucked up under the dash I think it will be fine.
20240427_121156 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240427_140929 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240427_140929 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240428_173138 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

[roadking77]

20240427_165641 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Next up is brakes. Bench bled the master, got things hooked up and started with the fronts. No problem. Then it came to the rears Slight hiccup, once thats figured out I will post my findings.

So in the meantime it was time to take a break
20240428_173714 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240428_172637 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Burn up some sticks from the back yard and cook some smores with the grandson.

[ryeguy2006a]

Great work Kerry, keep it up. Love camp fires!

[rkellerjr]

Lookin good!

[5th T/A]

Nice job on the AC duct. It should be good for another 45 years, maybe  more.

[81Resto]

Awesome job on the heater duct repair.  The whole project looks to be coming out great!

[TATurbo]

Congrats on all the progress.  You're practically finished!
This TATA is going to be a beaut!  Sounds sweet too.

[roadking77]

I knew after waiting for a gazillion years to have my motor rebuilt I should have named this car 'Patience'. But Im not one of thos that name cars. Now I am reconsidering Or maybe just PIA
Front brakes all fine. I could not get a vacuum on the back to save my life. After a few unsuccessful tries I decided to check that my fittings were tight. I DID NOT HAVE THE MAIN LINE HOOKED UP TO THE SPLITTER AT THE REAR END
So, hook that up and still no vac. Trip 2 lets look at the fittings again. The line input to the caliper was nice and tight, however the line moved freely in and out of the caliper, like it was missing a stop/washer ferule or something? With some advice and looking around I could not figure how to remedy the situation without a complete hodge podge. I called FbirdCentral where I bought the calipers (years ago now) and found they are for someone doing a disc brake swap onto a drum car. The fitting is accomplished with a banjo bolt and flex line much like the fronts. Rather than going through a bunch to make things jive, I found a set of rebuilt original calipers and placed an order. Hope they work!