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Electrical / Re: Clock Power
« Last post by Wallington on Today at 05:09:26 AM »
Sure sure....you were waiting to pick faults with my reply then claim it as your own! :P

The 77 clock and tacho is available repro in Quartz form, the 79+ type is not. As Brian said, there's kits for the clocks if needed, I don't think the clocks were available new outside of the complete tacho. The components of the clocks are not interchangeable, new or used. They stay with the tacho type, round rear is early, flat sided oval rear is 79+, even if clock doesn't say Quartz. Lettering appeared later to confirm
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Electrical / Re: Clock Power
« Last post by b_hill_86 on Today at 05:02:29 AM »
The 77 vs 79 clock and tacho are both different units but believe they are wired up similarly. Tacho is separate, 2 wires, does its own thing. Clock is grounded through the case/rear of tacho mounting plate with an insulated live feed off the circuit board that runs from the main harness plus. There is a ground also through the main harness, doesn't require the strap to the gauge cluster body if the harness is plugged in.

Beat me to it while I was typing lol
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Electrical / Re: Clock Power
« Last post by b_hill_86 on Today at 05:01:35 AM »
Clock power comes through the large connector on the back of the gauges and through the printed circuit. Separate from the tach.

The 70-78ish clocks are electromechanical. I think I made a post showing the differences between those and the late 78-81 quartz clocks. If not I can post it here later. Anyway, the early clocks usually need one of two things. Either they need lubricated or there’s a set of points that wears out and prevent it from functioning which I don’t believe can be repaired by the average joe. Possibly by a professional clock repairer though.

Tach has its own harness for function separate from the printed circuit
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Electrical / Re: Clock Power
« Last post by Wallington on Today at 04:58:31 AM »
The 77 vs 79 clock and tacho are both different units internally but believe they are wired up similarly. Tacho is separate to clock, 2 wires, does its own thing. Clock is grounded through the case/rear of tacho mounting plate with an insulated live feed off the circuit board that runs from the main harness plus. There is a ground also through the main harness, doesn't require the strap to the gauge cluster body if the harness is plugged in.
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Electrical / Clock Power
« Last post by roadking77 on Today at 04:37:47 AM »
Looking through Nuc Envoy's thread about elect gremlins got me to thinking.
Where does the power for the clock come from? The reason being:
The clock has never worked in my 77, nor does the tach as it has yet to be hooked up. I assumed the clock power came from the tach?
However, when I hooked up the battery in the 79 I am working on I was pleasantly surprised to see the clock start to ticking away!  I did not think the tach was hooked up in that car yet either? Maybe it is and I dont know it??
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Electrical / Re: Odd electrical gremlin - need electrical gurus
« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 30, 2024, 05:54:12 PM »
A blown fuse for that circuit combined with the clock running with the dome off suggests to me there is a short somewhere otherwise the clock shouldn’t be getting power with a blown fuse.
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Electrical / Re: Odd electrical gremlin - need electrical gurus
« Last post by nUcLeArEnVoY on May 30, 2024, 02:28:46 PM »
As above, those courtesy lights are often affected by the slightest issue elsewhere. Remove the globe, maybe unplug the door plungers. They can wear also,but not often the issue.
Check headlight switch isn't turned to keep dome light on.
I see some updates so ignore any. Rule out any fuses. Sounds like something has flipped polarity, still operates bulbs, doesn't operate things running off it. Did they rewire or repair front park lights or fender markers? Or headlights have halogens and not rewired from stock? Check headlight harness grounds on each end of support and battery ground cable to support as well as others in place around the chassis.


You called it, Wallington. The issue as to why everything was not working or working funny was because of a blown fuse. Had to actually remove the CLK-ACC-CTSY glass fuse to see the gap and that it had blown. When I glanced at it initially, it looked fine. After replacing it, everything now works like it should - in fact, my radio reception is clearer now than it was before on various channels. The rest of the fuses were fine.

It's weird how a blown fuse protecting one bank of the electrical system can affect devices that operate off another bank since the dome light isn't protected by that specific fuse that blew, and that how some very minimal draw devices on the bank protected by the bad fuse can still work in the presence of a blown fuse such as the glovebox light and clock. Either way, after replacing the fuse everything works again and works the way it should. I also replaced the dome light bulb just in case.

I'm concerned now, though because I'm well aware a blown fuse is a symptom rather than a cause, but I'm not really sure what could have caused the fuse to blow other than just bad luck or age. Maybe that bulb for the dome light shorted or something as it was a bit loose in there.

You could be right in that the grounds for the front end harness were messed with. Not sure why - it's grounded on the radiator support, rather than the headlight retaining panel which was all that was replaced. I've always had standard sylvania high and low sealed beam halogens like what the car would have come with stock, and they're working okay. My battery's neg cable is bolted to the stud on the cylinder head as stock, and also has an auxiliary ground wire going to the radiator support.

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Projects & Restorations / Re: My Tenth Anniv.
« Last post by roadking77 on May 30, 2024, 06:06:36 AM »
I had the shop install the same exhaust on my 77 so I really didnt know what was needed. I figured at least the last outlet pipe would be ok and only needed the splitters themselves. I did have the extras for the straight pipe in my barn though as leftovers. I finally gave them away a couple of months ago. Looks like I have another set to take their place hanging on the wall!! Just when I thought I was getting rid of some junk it re-materializes :shock: :shock: Maybe Im not a pack rat after all, perhaps I do throw stuff away but it re-appears :?
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Projects & Restorations / Re: My Tenth Anniv.
« Last post by FormTA on May 30, 2024, 04:30:52 AM »
 

Funny thing,  I installed my pypes kit and then realized the same thing. I order the parts and never installed them. I still have the elbow hangers and tips in boxes.... you have now reminded me of another project I need to do on my car... Thanks a lot!

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Electrical / Re: Odd electrical gremlin - need electrical gurus
« Last post by Wallington on May 29, 2024, 09:11:57 PM »
As above, those courtesy lights are often affected by the slightest issue elsewhere. Remove the globe, maybe unplug the door plungers. They can wear also,but not often the issue.
Check headlight switch isn't turned to keep dome light on.
I see some updates so ignore any. Rule out any fuses. Sounds like something has flipped polarity, still operates bulbs, doesn't operate things running off it. Did they rewire or repair front park lights or fender markers? Or headlights have halogens and not rewired from stock? Check headlight harness grounds on each end of support and battery ground cable to support as well as others in place around the chassis.
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