Snowflake Wheel Install Issue

[plckidd]

I just got my new Year One snowflake wheels and the front wheels seem to have enough wheel stud threads. However, the rear does not have enough stud threads. I did a rear brake conversion to disc. I think I lost 1/4” of wheel stud when I did this. Will I need to replace the wheel studs to a longer stud? If so, does anyone know where I can get 1 3/4” or 2” length? Thanks!

[Wallington]

Are they still the stock studs, and imperial? If the current batch of snowflakes still use the acorn lugnuts instead of stock, then you'll need something like these with a small extension. You want the length to be roughly the same as new depth so it is tightening on chamfer slightly before bottoming out, not after. Random pic.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71aUl3dz1JL._SL1500_.jpg

[b_hill_86]

Ben, do the YO flakes use an acorn style nut and not the stock style?

[Wallington]

It depends. The 15x8" YO version still use the factory lugnut, as far as I know. Their very first run of 17x9" around 10yrs ago also use the factory style. The second run changed the offset slightly and remains to this day with the tapered acorn lugnut. I haven't checked out their 2-piece versions. So I guess the OP needs to confirm snowflake type/lugnut type and if brake swap retains stock hubs or something like the common ILE metric swap. None of those are anything I know about, other than making convo.

[b_hill_86]

It depends. The 15x8" YO version still use the factory lugnut, as far as I know. Their very first run of 17x9" around 10yrs ago also use the factory style. The second run changed the offset slightly and remains to this day with the tapered acorn lugnut. I haven't checked out their 2-piece versions. So I guess the OP needs to confirm snowflake type/lugnut type and if brake swap retains stock hubs or something like the common ILE metric swap. None of those are anything I know about, other than making convo.

Gotcha. That makes a bit more sense though. It wouldn’t have for them to change styles on the factory type rims. 17x9 would be less weird at least.

[plckidd]

Are they still the stock studs, and imperial? If the current batch of snowflakes still use the acorn lugnuts instead of stock, then you'll need something like these with a small extension. You want the length to be roughly the same as new depth so it is tightening on chamfer slightly before bottoming out, not after. Random pic.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71aUl3dz1JL._SL1500_.jpg

Thanks I'll check those out. Here is a pic of the lug nuts Year One sent me...

[plckidd]

If I need to replace the studs, can it be done without removing the axles? Not sure about the front...

Here is a pic of how much of the stud is coming through the wheel opening.

[FormTA]

I have the 4 gen rear disks and 17 snowflakes. I had to change to the longer studs. I don't remember it being a big job but I did have to cut the longer studs down so I could get them in the flange without pulling the axel. Once cut they were still long enough.  I used standard lug nuts, not the original style but you need to verify with the rim.

[Wallington]

OK if using standard lugnuts, assume your new rims are YO 15x8". I'm not aware of any extended version to suit those, could be, haven't seen them mentioned, whereas the others came up several times. X2 longer studs may be the way to go so you still end up with stock length to mount on. Pulling axles isn't too hard, as hard as draining the diff oil and removing C-clips, possibly be more work removing rear disc setup.

I guess the rear disc conversion should have mentioned the likelihood of further mods being required, and if your rim is that far out it likely isn't mounted anywhere near the hub for centering the rim. I think factory rear disc cars used a different axle for this as well. Depends what conversion you used, I'd start there. Focus on the cause, is it a rear drum/axle setup with disc rotors slipped on that are far thicker than drums?