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http://www.transamcountry.com/community/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=83837.0;attach=7362;image

Is your rear bumper cover still the rubber type? I noticed the 499735 strip installed. My 78 bumper cover was close to immaculate but had slight ripples or waves between each hole where riveted. So I've also sourced a couple of the strips to clamp it all down. Not original, don't care. The jacking brackets often had me thinking too. Originality aside, not going to ever use them and they are a tad clumsy otherwise. Could just as easily unbolt, leave off and panel over the cutouts if respraying covers. I'm sure others have done it but not really noticed. And cheaper to do nothing.
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Projects & Restorations / Re: 77TA Resto Reboot - a long journey to an LS swap
« Last post by scarebird on May 10, 2024, 06:41:24 AM »
Have you had a chance to calculate your mileage?
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Projects & Restorations / Re: Madaguy 1955 Nomad Build
« Last post by ryeguy2006a on May 10, 2024, 06:28:34 AM »
Thanks for posting! That looks mint still!
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Lobby / Re: Today I... "Redux Edition"
« Last post by FormTA on May 10, 2024, 05:13:46 AM »
Man that thing looks awesome! I have been cruising the military auctions too.
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Very nice.
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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Brake Help
« Last post by roadking77 on May 10, 2024, 04:36:49 AM »
I am having the same issue actually. I have a 'mighty vac' hand pump that I used on the fronts and it worked like a charm. I got the rear caliper hooked up and started with the mighty vac last night and I pumped until I couldnt stand it any longer. After letting it sit a bit I found a leak where the main hard line attaches to the flex line that leads to the splitter on the rear. I have a very clean shop floor and saw a drop of fluid. I tightened that up and pumped some more but no luck. I figure I at least have fluid to that point in the system. I am going to get help today on the brake pedal and try it that way. If that doesnt work I am planning on going back over the system.

When the shop did my 77 the mechanic told me he could not get the rears bled and found out it was a bad master cylinder?
He swapped it out and solved the problem.
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Lobby / Re: Today I... "Redux Edition"
« Last post by roadking77 on May 10, 2024, 04:24:25 AM »
What a beast! I can see my wife driving that thing to work every day, all other drivers beware :shock:
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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Brake Help
« Last post by glhx on May 10, 2024, 02:12:38 AM »
I have this system and I have had a very hard time getting it bled. The fronts bleed fine.
The back passenger side as well.

The drivers side keeps pulling in air and I think it’s pulling it into the caliper from the parking brake system.

If you can get this bled. Please post and let me know what you did and where you got your parts from.

My whole system is all new. All the hoses, brake lines, calipers and master are new
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Yeah, I’m bleeding it myself.

I have long runs of 3/16” tubing tightly sealed to the bleeder screw.
They run the length of the car back into the master cylinder.

When you bench belled a master cylinder. You run the master cylinder outlets back into the reservoir.

I’m doing the same thing. I’m just doing that with the entire braking system.

I should be able to pump as many times as I want and the air finally bleed out of the whole system.


The Teflon tape was only used to seal the threads with the bleeder screw open. And just for this style of bleeding. Because a loose screw can pull air back into the threads. This Teflon tape prevents this. Toy don’t leave the tape there permanently. It’s just for this style of bleeding for air creeping into the threads. Some people use grease to do this but grease is ineffective. This is a very solid way to bleed a system. Probably the best way but not commonly done because it uses a lot of extra fluid to fill the hoses. I’ve used it many times. It’s a sure way to get every little particle of air out. Only a pressure bleeder might be better. It’s basically bench bleeding the whole car instead of just the master cylinder. Same concept.

However……I added a bleeder screw that was drilled out. This closed off the threads and no tape was used. It just allowed free flow out of the screw into my long run of 3/16” tubing. I only did this and got rid of the tape, so I wouldn’t have the tape to blame. The threads were sealed tight. This 3/16” hose was sealed tight.

I also did this with a 2 person style. The normal way……
Just to prove it’s air coming in from somewhere else.
And here…..right here. Shows the problem. The air still crept in even with the normal 2 person style. I still had the hose sealed to the bleeder screw so I could watch the air come out. This shows for certain there is air coming in the system. I just don’t know where yet.

There can be only a few places.
The passenger side rear line with its 2 connections.

Or the 3 seals in the caliper.
The parking brake seal on the shaft.
The piston ratcheting o ring
Or the main piston seal.

It’s a complicated caliper

I haven’t taken the caliper apart yet. Often times the rebuild these and leave the pits in the caliper. Sometimes they leak fluid.

But these were 2 new calipers from oreilly. They shouldn’t leak.

I’m just seeing if anyone else has had this problem specifically. I’ve seen the Eldorado guys have it a few times but nothing really came of it.

I’ve also seen where they put front calipers on the back and get rid of the parking brake all together.
I’ve got a good parking break adjustment. I just can’t get the system to not pull air every time I step on the brake 6 times.




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Interior / Re: Formula wheel resto
« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 09, 2024, 09:24:52 PM »
Cool, thanks for posting. That does look good. I haven’t had time to mess with that wheel yet. Surprisingly the other one I did the same way isn’t cracking. It’s not as soft though either
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