Recent Posts

11

Lobby / Re: Current picture of your project or finished car.

« Last post by N PRGRES on Today at 05:13:54 AM »

Front and rear PTFB GT suspension (springs), new gas tank and sender, new lower arms and new tubular upper arms with the longer PTFB ball joints. Koni shocks all around.  PTFB aluminum solid body bushings.  Alignment and shims this morning.  Trying to ready it up for FirebirdFest 4 in a week.  Still have a few things I want to do to it before the trip.

Did you just replace the sender with a stock unit?  Do you have any needle fluctuations as you drive?  Mine seems to move about 1/4 tank back and forth as I drive.

12

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by FormTA on Today at 03:36:34 AM »

Thanks for the info. My memory is getting worse... You ate correct as the 79s don't have a air pump. I will have to weld each of those lines closed or make up some threaded plugs to block those off. I haven't looked close enough but doesn't the tubes go into the exhaust manifolds not tye heads?

If they go into the manifolds it may not matter as I will probably be swapping those out for something else to pipe the turbo.

13

Lobby / Re: Current picture of your project or finished car.

« Last post by kentucky yeti on May 16, 2024, 06:35:53 PM »

Mike, that’s a pretty serious suspension upgrade. When you get a chance I would love to hear your critique on the changes to handling and ride.

320 miles today at FirebirdFest.  So far I think it’s the best investment I’ve made with this car.

14

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by 5th T/A on May 16, 2024, 01:52:13 PM »

Apparently there were some 1979 engines that made it into 1980s cars...?? I have heard on a few occasions of 1980 cars with 1979 style engines in them. The 1980 engine I have cam from a forum member with under 10K miles. Pretty sure it was original to the car.

Luke, looking at the cowl tag, my car had a build date of 09C (3rd week of September). I am pretty sure I matched the VIN number with the serial number stamped on the engine. I looked for and could not find any T stampings on the engine, for whatever that is worth. I think I read somewhere that heads were slightly different on 1980 cars for the air injection system, or maybe the 79's didn't have it?  The engine was quiet and smooth running. Not a powerhouse but would give me a little tire squeak from a dead stop.

The engine had 7200 miles on it when removed from the car. I really did not touch the engine other than to replace the original fuel pump, it did not have any issues, but I was concerned that a 40-year-old rubber diaphragm might fail. A previous owner did replace the plugs and wires (did a lousy job with the plug wires). I pulled the rocker covers off to inspect, they were leaking a little oil. With covers removed the engine was very clean, looked like new. I think the factory used RTV, I would use gaskets.

15

Exterior / Re: Hood alignment. My next impossible mission.

« Last post by rkellerjr on May 16, 2024, 01:10:07 PM »

When I took off the entire front end and doors of my car when I replaced the floor boards, I looked at what I had to do put it back together and sat down for a minute and said, "serenity now, serenity now" then got to work. My story may or may not help but...

I first put the doors on without the striker. Got it all aligned, yammed those door hinge nuts tight, then added the striker. I then aligned the fenders and front end, then the hood. Making minor adjustments as needed.  And ya, I did this mostly by myself. In the end, my hood closes fine but the rear sticks up (it didn't before I started) but a little downward pressure and they go down. I've yet to figure out why.

I think aligning the door without the door striker is the way to go, once it opens and closes "in alignment" then put the striker back on adjusting so that the door closes perfectly into the striker and the striker doesn't lower or raise the door. Takes a bit to do but that was the easiest way for me to align the doors.

If I were closer I'd come over and we'd gitter done quick.

16

Exterior / Re: Hood alignment. My next impossible mission.

« Last post by 79 Moneypit on May 16, 2024, 12:56:19 PM »

On my 79, I rebuilt the door hinges with the commonly available bushing and pins.  The driver's door still dropped when opened.  As much as I hated doing it, I bought billet
Ring Brothers hinges and they made a night and day difference.  Unfortunately, I ended up having to buy them for the hood too, after one set of reproductions and the worn-out
originals wouldn't work.  These hinges were also a great improvement, but it sure is tough coming off the money for hinges. 

17

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by FormTA on May 16, 2024, 11:00:54 AM »

Apparently there were some 1979 engines that made it into 1980s cars...?? I have heard on a few occasions of 1980 cars with 1979 style engines in them. The 1980 engine I have cam from a forum member with under 10K miles. Pretty sure it was original to the car.

18

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by Nexus on May 16, 2024, 05:02:05 AM »

Joe said he has seen some 80 301s without the T cast into the block that are still beefed up from the factory. That means that my other engine could be a stronger block than my 79

I was under the impression that most or all 301 blocks were "T" blocks in 80 & 81. The 80 I'm putting back together now is, and it's out of an 80 but not a turbo option.

It's too bad that 301 garage isn't around any longer as the information over there would answer any of your 301 questions!

19

Lobby / Re: Topic replies

« Last post by Wallington on May 16, 2024, 04:25:08 AM »

I guess Pontiac and Fisher have their prized-Holden manuals to go by. I think that thread has died down but at no point did it appear anyone actually checked diagrams, just figured half the posters would have cars with original winder positions. My window winders are still original location, centred by spring in a switch.

1000023096 by Ben, on Flickr

20

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by FormTA on May 15, 2024, 06:57:34 PM »

If I actually go through with this (which it's look good) I will boost the original engine that is in the car and see how it does.  If it holds together then I'll drop in the other low mileage one


On that note. Joe said he has seen some 80 301s without the T cast into the block that are still beefed up from the factory. That means that my other engine could be a stronger block than my 79