Recent Posts

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Projects & Restorations / Re: 77TA Resto Reboot - a long journey to an LS swap

« Last post by stros on May 31, 2024, 08:32:46 PM »

Pics of the new grills on the kick panel speakers that clear the parking brake much better and also included a pic of the DSP windows app in case you’re interested (this is a generic image not my current settings).

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Projects & Restorations / Re: 77TA Resto Reboot - a long journey to an LS swap

« Last post by stros on May 31, 2024, 08:13:09 PM »

The stereo project is done.  As mentioned in another thread I also decided to swap out my center dash speakers.  That was a bit of an effort but in the end not that bad.  Added two 4” Infinity reference speakers to the dash in addition to the 6.5s in the kick panels and 6x9s in the rear deck mentioned earlier. 

I still have the JBL Fuse split subwoofers hidden in the trunk with the dedicated SSL amp ($90 1000 watt 2 channel amp off Amazon). 

I added a new JBL 8 channel DSP amp to power the 6 new speakers.  Using 6 of the channels as it doesn’t have enough power for my subs.  A pretty good deal for <$300.  The DSP allows you to specifically tune every single speaker separately.  Given the unconventional speaker setup it’s really great at allowing me to put different amounts of power to each speaker so they sound better together.  It’s a bit complicated to dial in but I think I’m happy with my settings now.  I’ll continue to fiddle with it. 

The DSP amp has no presets and it has to be adjusted using a windows laptop.  Would’ve been nice to adjust it on your phone instead. 

I have a couple of issues I decided to deal with some other time - my quartz clock died again…it was working fine before I removed it.  It’s a repop Classic Industries tach that I’ve had replaced under warranty due to the last clock dying.  This one lasted a few years.  It seems super fragile.  I’m going to live with it not working.  Maybe an excuse to go with digital gauges for a future project.  My light socket behind the fuel/battery gauge - which wasn’t working earlier - also completely snapped off when I was trying to replace the bulb. 

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Electrical / Re: Clock Power

« Last post by roadking77 on May 31, 2024, 05:19:35 PM »

OK, I will keep that in mind. Its not urgent as the clock has never worked. Being that it was rebuilt I assumed it picked up power from my tach that I knew was not hooked up. IF I ever get the 79 on the road I plan on putting the 77 in the shop for some freshening up.

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Electrical / Re: Clock Power

« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 31, 2024, 11:56:43 AM »

I’m editing my previous post after some thought. Im not sure a charger would be a good idea. Instead, a couple spare wires and alligator clips or something similar with one of your car batteries would work better.

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Electrical / Re: Clock Power

« Last post by roadking77 on May 31, 2024, 11:54:55 AM »

Didnt think about that, Could I use my battery charger with the positive and negative lead on each post? 
I have used that method before to test other components like the blower motor, window motors etc.

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Electrical / Re: Clock Power

« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 31, 2024, 07:08:49 AM »

If you were to remove the cluster you could fairly simply connect power and ground to the clock directly to test

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Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: Fuel and brake line clamps

« Last post by roadking77 on May 31, 2024, 06:56:22 AM »

Looks good to me!

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Electrical / Re: Clock Power

« Last post by roadking77 on May 31, 2024, 06:54:56 AM »

When I restored my 77 I sent my clock out for a restoration service. It was rebuilt as original although he did offer a quartz upgrade, new stem etc. It has never worked, although everything (well almost, no speedo and no tach) else works the clock has never worked?

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Electrical / Re: Clock Power

« Last post by b_hill_86 on May 31, 2024, 06:34:55 AM »

I did forget to mention there is a quartz conversion available for the electromechanical clocks. I installed one in my 77 before I realized I could get my original working. It keeps good time till it stops randomly. I have to tap my gauge face to get it going again. I’ve heard of a few others having the same issue

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Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: Fuel and brake line clamps

« Last post by Wallington on May 31, 2024, 06:25:18 AM »

A quick follow-up, finally got around to doing this bracket. I tried a couple of times in steel strip and wasn't happy with the bends, even when heated with a torch. I ended up using thicker aluminium strip and didn't worry so much in copying since it was still an estimate and would need to be bolted in place.

Firebird LH floorpan fuel brake line saddle bracket bare aluminium and satin black (4) by Ben, on Flickr

Oven-baked black.

Firebird LH floorpan fuel brake line saddle bracket bare aluminium and satin black (2) by Ben, on Flickr

Test fit minus the lines. Horrible looking floor!

Firebird LH floor pan fuel brake line bracket only (2) by Ben, on Flickr

I had to cut a patch out of the Dynamat insulation to install flat-head bolts. Mastic sealing washers were used to compress when tightened.

Firebird LH floor pan fuel brake line bracket before after bolt seals (4) by Ben, on Flickr

Finished setup. Thanks to Willie for the pics to base some ideas from.

Firebird LH floor pan fuel brake line bracket installed (6) by Ben, on Flickr

Firebird LH floor pan fuel brake line bracket installed ( by Ben, on Flickr