Author Topic: 84 301T (Read 17688 times)

tajoe · « **Reply #240 on:** November 30, 2022, 06:37:41 PM »

Quote from: FormTA on November 30, 2022, 05:49:21 PM

He knows I'm kidding. Ryan and I talk quite a bit outside this forum. 5 or 6 years ago he helped me out by reprogramming the ecu for my LS swap and answered a bunch of my questions when I couldn't get it running right. Ever since then we shoot texts back and forth when either of us need info. It's funny to have friends that you have never met. I have made a few because of this forum. Anyway sorry to derail your awesome turbo Pontiac powered 3rd gen thread. Please continue!

No problem, boss. Gutta have a laugh at some point. Not just with my "transplant".

ryeguy2006a · « **Reply #241 on:** December 01, 2022, 07:45:56 AM »

Quote from: tajoe on November 30, 2022, 04:32:23 PM

Quote from: ryeguy2006a on November 30, 2022, 08:55:03 AM
Quote from: tajoe on November 29, 2022, 08:23:09 PM
Well Luke, (?), I guess it's the "journey" we're suppose to enjoy, unlike the finished product, that doesn't bring us the same kinda reward, as if we didn't get down and roll around in the mud a while. (these days, I can do W/O the mud, if ya know what I mean).

I wonder if that's why I end up selling the cars after I finish them??
Quote from: FormTA on November 30, 2022, 02:58:48 PM
No, that is just some sort of mental problem.
Hey! Did you just say that "out-loud"? LOL. (I'm sure he meant it in a "tenderhearted" way Luke.

Haha, I have thick skin and I know he meant it in the best way possible. But at the same time, maybe he's onto something.

tajoe · « **Reply #242 on:** December 01, 2022, 07:32:59 PM »

Put some time into the Z-bar tonite, and looks like it has possibilities of working W/O modification. (With the exception of the frame bracket.) It's super tight all around it, but has "most" of the clearances needed to operate. The "S" bend in the tube actually fits perfectly around the Floor/cowl/ firewall, (where they all join). The only area of concern is where the clutch fork protrudes from the bellhousing. Even with the fwd bend in the chevy fork, when the clutch pedal is pushed, the fork moves rearward, and looks like the floor pan/tunnel bulge will interfere. But it's ever-so-slight, and I think I can "reshape it, W/O interfering with the interior cosmetics too much. I'll post some pics when I get further along.

tajoe · « **Reply #243 on:** December 06, 2022, 07:12:49 PM »

Z-bar continuation,
Got a few pretty good shots of the linkage tonite. 3 areas. Top (eng. compartment), bottom, and wheelwell.
The 1st one below, shows the linkage laying in place. I highlighted the non tapped, original holes for the missing bracket, (I don't have), and I don't see a good way of mounting an angle iron bracket, because the end of the Z-bar tube is "exactly" in line with the centerline of the bolt holes. (Under the shadow) I just can't for the life of me visualize something to use those holes. Even the sister bracket that bolts to it, (I "do" have) doesn't work, because of a clearance issue I won't bore you with. You can also see my "mule" bracket, fabbed to the Z-bar. Another shot of that below, in the wheelwell.

My focus right now is on that bracket, and coming up with a way of bolting to something sturdy, and making the bracket rugged too.
And the photos below, are of the Z-bar from below, it's corresponding lever, and linkage. The 1st pic gives you an idea of how far back the ball is, relative to the frame bracket. The "S" bend is a 'must" for this application. (Heck, even with the 305)

You might think "how will it rotate, if the cowl is in the way. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it only rotates a few degrees, so amazingly there is clearance. But I still might need to "adjust" the sheetmetal a bit. Just like where the clutch fork is shoved rearward, might interfere with the floorpan/tunnel area. I don't have a good angle of it, but you gut the idea.

And lastly, the starter is still missing as you can see, but fortunately it won't be any problem with linkage. Also you can see in the 2nd photo up, how close the torque tube and ball is to the 301s #7 cylinder exhaust port/ manifold. We're talkin less than a quarter inch. But it will work.
So there you have it. Moving fwd, (at a snails pace). Being winter time, (holidays), and OT required in work, free time is scarce right now.

scarebird · « **Reply #244 on:** December 06, 2022, 07:52:50 PM »

Can you shoot and post a few more pix of the first pic from different angles?

I may see one way to do this.

« **Reply #244 on:** December 06, 2022, 07:52:50 PM »

tajoe · « **Reply #245 on:** December 07, 2022, 04:23:23 AM »

Which "1st pic" are you referring to SB? The one in the eng. compartment, or the 2nd one above here, with the clutch fork?

scarebird · « **Reply #246 on:** December 07, 2022, 08:51:04 AM »

Looking at both I am thinking you can mount it outside the inner fender well.

tajoe · « **Reply #247 on:** December 07, 2022, 04:27:19 PM »

I'm assuming you're referring to the top 2 photos, the one in the eng. compartment, and the pic below it, of the wheelwell shot, showing the access hole with the home-made bracket on the end of the tube/z-bar. Altho the bracket is just a mock-up, I'm thinking of bolting it (as I think you're aiming at), is to the side of the frame (?)(Is it really a "frame"?). Not really sure how thick that material is, to hold the load of the pedal pressure, when activating the clutch. I know above that frame rail, where those unthreaded factory drilled holes are, look to be a good solid 1/4" thick. Don't know if the entire frame section is like that, or just some nut plates for the holes. I'ld like ta start drilling some "test" holes, to check the thickness, but don't wanna have it lookin like swiss cheese either.

tajoe · « **Reply #248 on:** December 10, 2022, 03:00:40 PM »

Drilled, tapped, and bolted the above Z bar frame bracket thru the hole in that bracket, as seen in the wheelwell photo above. Which meant I could finally test the geometry of the entire linkage out.

My 1st concern- was how much pedal effort there would be, because the upper lever on the torque tube is about 1/2 the length of the other Z-bar levers from previous generations of mechanical clutches. Which is good in one way, in that the tube will rotate a longer distance, to the same throw as the pedal movement. But, with 1/2 the leverage, will it cause greater resistance? Of course I'm just using a stock diaphragm pressure plate, which are known to not have that much resistance, so that might ease the load on the ball pivots at each end.

2nd, when the tube rotates thru its travel, will it hit the cowl on the bend section, in the middle?

And last, will the lower lever to the clutch fork travel far enuff to loosen the clutch disc, or will the clutch fork hit the floor pan, in the areas i mentioned above?

So now that I got to operate it last night, (with my daughters help), The effort is normal, (whew), the tube clears the cowl where the bend is, but the fork isn't moved far enuff to disengage the clutch disc. "But", is it because the fork is hitting the floor on its farthest travel? Not sure, cause I believe the pedal went all the way to the floor when she pushed it, and when the fork appeared to touch the floor, it was at its last fraction of an inch of movement. I now will need-ta make some minor clearance adjustment to the tunnel, but also think I'll need-ta make a hole further up the lower lever, to make it travel a bit further. More to come.

scarebird · « **Reply #249 on:** December 10, 2022, 05:59:25 PM »

Quote from: tajoe on December 07, 2022, 04:27:19 PM

...Not really sure how thick that material is, to hold the load of the pedal pressure, when activating the clutch. I know above that frame rail, where those unthreaded factory drilled holes are, look to be a good solid 1/4" thick...

IIRC it is 11 gauge (0.117") thick. Borderline with 4 mounting bolts unless you use nutserts, or weld a tab to the side.

tajoe · « **Reply #250 on:** December 10, 2022, 09:35:07 PM »

I believe you're correct on that SB. I had to use a 5/16x20 tap for the bolt I'm using right now into that area. And there's only a couple threads holding it. It's more of a shear load, and good enuff for testing anyway. I'm trying to figure a way to use the existing holes on top of the frame for a bracket, similar to the factory one(s), except simpler and stronger. Just can't seem to visualize it...yet.

tajoe · « **Reply #251 on:** December 28, 2022, 10:54:56 AM »

Christmas season every year destroys my garage time. With work OT requirements, and family obligations, free time is non-existent.
Hoping to get back out there soon. "Happy New year" to all the members.
(Let's see, what is it now..."1984?)

scarebird · « **Reply #252 on:** December 28, 2022, 11:04:31 AM »

dammit! you tease us as I thought you had sorted out the bellcrank issue...

tajoe · « **Reply #253 on:** December 28, 2022, 01:36:02 PM »

LOL. Gettin there SB. With the above set-up, I think I mentioned that when the pedal is on the floor, (with no rug or padding), there's only about .010 clearance between the clutch disc and flywheel. Is that enuff to disengage the tranny? Don't know, cause I don't have it behind a running motor...yet. Wish I had another 4 speed car, I could access to check.

Anyway, in the above photo of the Z-bar lever under the car, it's a bit beat up, and rewelded, where the push rod for the fork connects to it. If you can see below the swivel nut, where the pushrod connects to the lower lever, you'll notice where it was broke off, where an attaching hole seems to be. (the 3 photos in the last above posts, show this better.) If I re-weld on an extension of about an inch and a half, I can lower the push rod hole an inch, (back to where it seems to have been), and put a clearance divot in the floor to clear the added movement, and hopefully gain some more travel to disconnect.
But next on my "ta-do" priority list, is to get my JD 214 fuel system back together, so I can re-install the snow blower attachment, just to ensure we won't get anymore snow this winter. Will that mentality work?

And I am on vacation this week, and my travels are "almost" completed, so I'm hoping to get back out there. I did re-fill my propane bottles, so there is now heat back out there in the garage, which will give me more incentive. I'll be back.

Jack · « **Reply #254 on:** December 28, 2022, 05:35:47 PM »

Looking forwards to seeing some progress but I'm glad you took some time off.

« **Reply #254 on:** December 28, 2022, 05:35:47 PM »

tajoe · « **Reply #255 on:** December 28, 2022, 09:46:27 PM »

Hello Jack. Now it's your turn.

scarebird · « **Reply #256 on:** December 29, 2022, 12:29:24 AM »

If you can put it in gear you can push in the clutch and spin the driveshaft instead?

tajoe · « **Reply #257 on:** December 29, 2022, 07:42:39 AM »

I'll give that a try.But 1st, I'll need-ta put in the shifter, or at least the shift block to see what gear it's in.

kentucky yeti · « **Reply #258 on:** December 30, 2022, 06:57:05 AM »

Dang holidays get in the way of real enjoyment

tajoe · « **Reply #259 on:** December 30, 2022, 10:14:08 AM »

I know, right? And to top it off, I wuz suppose to be on vacation till tues., and yesterday my work left a message on my answering machine, asking for me to go in "Mon", which is suppose to be a holiday.

2 TAs, 2 diesel trucks, (my projects) that just can't seem to make it up the priority list. But with my 84 T/A, I'll be forcing myself to work it during weekdays, after work, to show some progress. Even if it's only a few hrs a week.

Today, I'll continue on my 214, and truck, which are more critical in need of repairs, before I get to the 84, which will be tomorrow. Unless I get my others caught up.and can squeeze some time in this afternoon. The temps once again have warmed up to about 50°, so hopefully I'll get there. Gunna take scarebirds advice, and see if the driveshaft will rotate when it's in gear, and the clutch is depressed.

TATurbo · « **Reply #260 on:** January 08, 2023, 11:16:43 PM »

Would something like this eliminate the need for a Z-Bar?

[urlhttps://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/13645/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAiA8OmdBhAgEiwAShr40wfu18GJrc6ivFY1R9_XRtk1SVJDqwnJh7eOFyMZ8rNqkijQev2TSBoC0wUQAvD_BwE[/url]

scarebird · « **Reply #261 on:** January 09, 2023, 10:21:12 PM »

If he ca make the Z-bar work he is ahead.

tajoe · « **Reply #262 on:** January 10, 2023, 05:13:34 AM »

Sorry Tom, I've been tied up with other chores, and haven't been able to check out your link. But I will. And like SB has responded, the Z bar will work, once I can get back to it. But I will check out your link, after work. Thanx.

tajoe · « **Reply #263 on:** January 10, 2023, 06:10:43 PM »

I tried to copy the link, (McLeod) and couldn't get it to work. Is it a hyd. clutch?

scarebird · « **Reply #264 on:** January 24, 2023, 04:33:07 PM »

*poke*

Got my 71 done - where are you?

« **Reply #264 on:** January 24, 2023, 04:33:07 PM »

tajoe · « **Reply #265 on:** January 24, 2023, 04:42:27 PM »

Just came back from a short stint in Fla, and now the new year begins. Hopefully back in the garage this weekend.
Congrats on your 71. Time for some track testing?

scarebird · « **Reply #266 on:** January 24, 2023, 07:22:54 PM »

no track stuff, street cruiser. T/A is the track car.

Jack · « **Reply #267 on:** January 30, 2023, 04:44:32 PM »

Quote from: tajoe on January 24, 2023, 04:42:27 PM

Just came back from a short stint in Fla, and now the new year begins. Hopefully back in the garage this weekend.
Congrats on your 71. Time for some track testing?

Good. I'm sure the warm weather was nice but again it's not like we had a real winter so far.

tajoe · « **Reply #268 on:** January 30, 2023, 05:19:03 PM »

You got that right Jack. Weather's been extraordinary, and I'm not complaining. Hoping it's making your business travels easier.

tajoe · « **Reply #269 on:** February 16, 2023, 03:41:59 PM »

Still nothing new...sorry. After Christmas excursions, tractor repairs, and Fla. partial vacation, came back to "demousifying" our kitchen, and re-opening an old project, (from last yr) of building cherry wood counter-tops for my lower kitchen cabinets. And a new farmhouse sink. Not that it needs it, What it needs is the 75 yr old iron supply lines removed, because of mineral deposit clogs, slowing our faucett down to almost trickles. So if I'm working there, might as well improve what's above. (Happy wife...happy life). I'm sure you've all been there. Because the weather has been so nice, it's killing me not to get back out in the garage.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #270 on:** February 16, 2023, 04:52:45 PM »

What? You have more than one project? That poor Trans Am waiting to be finished. How could you?

Seriously......I know how it feels.

tajoe · « **Reply #271 on:** February 16, 2023, 05:26:13 PM »

Now I feel even more guilty. LOL

FormTA · « **Reply #272 on:** February 16, 2023, 08:46:00 PM »

Glad to see you haven't abandoned it completely. At least you think about it. With two car projects I have going, I haven't even thought about the 79 formula I have stored in the pole barn.... Other than maybe selling it to fund the other 2-3 car projects...

kentucky yeti · « **Reply #273 on:** February 17, 2023, 07:35:10 AM »

Quote from: tajoe on February 16, 2023, 03:41:59 PM

Still nothing new...sorry. After Christmas excursions, tractor repairs, and Fla. partial vacation, came back to "demousifying" our kitchen, and re-opening an old project, (from last yr) of building cherry wood counter-tops for my lower kitchen cabinets. And a new farmhouse sink. Not that it needs it, What it needs is the 75 yr old iron supply lines removed, because of mineral deposit clogs, slowing our faucett down to almost trickles. So if I'm working there, might as well improve what's above. (Happy wife...happy life). I'm sure you've all been there.

Yes, a simple kitchen freshen-up is never simple. It just evolves into more and more...

tajoe · « **Reply #274 on:** February 17, 2023, 03:30:57 PM »

LOL. I had you in mind Mike, when I was mentioning "just a quick refresher" in the kitchen, and what you have on your plate. At least you're on the home stretch, and all is looking superb. You've done quite the work on it, and should be proud of what you've accomplished.
(And now back to our regular scheduled programming.)

.

Jack · « **Reply #275 on:** February 27, 2023, 08:20:18 PM »

A kitchen project in middle of winter? I guess that gives you more time to do car work in the spring

tajoe · « **Reply #276 on:** February 27, 2023, 10:16:37 PM »

Hello Jack. Thanks for stopping in.
My kitchen refresher just got side-tracked with the Mrs. telling me yesterday evening, (Sunday nite...B4 mon. work) "Oh, by the way, the dryer quit working".

The labor hrs I've spent over 2 days, could've paid for a new dryer. All systems test OK, (Except the one that isn't), and yet still the dryer won't start. Has power everywhere, but the one place it doesn't, I haven't located...yet.
Home ownership, and DIY is really beginning to suck.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #277 on:** February 28, 2023, 02:59:00 PM »

I don't know what brand/type of dryer you have but the same thing happened to us about 6 months ago. It was the thermal fuse in back. It was a common part and cost about $7.

tajoe · « **Reply #278 on:** February 28, 2023, 04:41:30 PM »

Thanks for the tip Willie, but if the thermal fuse in mine was bad, (which I still can't locate), I don't think I would have 2 120V hot wires, (and more), at the motor. It seems to me it might be the centrifugal switch, but I can't prove it. Sorry, I don't wanna turn this thread into something else.

scarebird · « **Reply #279 on:** February 28, 2023, 08:00:14 PM »

Hephaestus is punishing you for not working on your T/A.

Repent mortal!

« **Reply #279 on:** February 28, 2023, 08:00:14 PM »

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Author Topic: 84 301T (Read 17688 times)