TAC Tech => Exterior => Topic started by: firebirdparts on August 10, 2021, 09:19:40 AM
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This is the only part of the Fisher body manual that is really good:
http://transamcountry.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/GM_Window_Adjustment_Guide.pdf
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Thanks for posting, I've used that part of the manual many times and need it again.
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It helped me as well. Thanks for posting it.
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Firebirdparts, this is great info. I will definitely save this.
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I have the manual and will be using this section very soon.
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What grease are you guys using for the tracks?
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I used white lithium grease on mine.
I considered other options, like molybdenum, but this was less messy.
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This was a HUGE help! Thank you
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Has anyone, specifically with power windows, successfully adjusted to the point that the windows close perfectly? I’m SO close, and doors close great with the windows up but I get a small gap at the top of the windows unless I crack the door, roll up the last bit and close. I’m so close.
I will add, for others benefit, one thing I learned. While working with these I realized in addition to the track adjustments being somewhat opposite of what you’d think (track in means top of window out) I was wanting to move the rear corner of the window out and decided to try to move the forward track inward slightly. BAM! Worked perfectly to draw the rear corner of the window out slightly. For whatever it’s worth
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I haven't particularly. I got them close and then parked the car. It doesn't even have seals now. So these are just ideas.
Is the window glass stopping short because it's hitting a crease in the rubber seal at the top or due to the drag along the seal on the sides becoming too much, or both? The relay shuts off the power when the load gets too high, you know that. So you have to work on what it's catching on. This may even require adjusting the body seal channel in or out a touch so the glass can glide past instead of grabbing the edge. You can try taping small sections of the seal back from the glass to see where it might be an issue. Or any slightly bulged seal areas may be gathered up slightly causing a bulge that isn't visible except to passing glass. Can pull it to one side with the stretch of the rubber and see if it improves. Otherwise, perhaps adding the slightest tweak to the guide block on top off door to touch more support on problem end and see if it supports it past where it grabs. Getting it close is the hard part, getting it perfect is the time-consuming part. Do you have the 3D-printed blocks to assist? I can't imagine the factory taking to much time on these, although a guy would have a lot of experience setting them up right and know exactly where to adjust in short time, and with fresh seals.
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I didn’t know the relay cut power once the load increased. That’s interesting. I’ll have to examine the other points you made and see what I can come up with. I’m as close as I’ve ever been. I hate to play with things only to make it worse but if it got this far…. Should be able to again lol. I do have the alignment blocks. They got things very close very quickly but more adjustments were needed. I do agree though the factory couldn’t have spent much time on this.
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I have power windows on my car. My driver window closes about as good as expected. My only problem is that I have C n C tops and the joint between the body seal and the top leaves a lot to be desired. So they leak way too much. Other than that the window works just about perfect. Plenty of power and speed.
My pass side with the door closed will go up about 7/8 of the way. To close it completely I need to open the door and the window will work fine, then close the door. I think the big part of the problem is that the weather strip causes the bind.
Interesting to hear about the relays. When I did mine I had troubles with the chineseum relays. I went through a couple before I found ones that would work. Shortly after I had everything working good. The dr. side relay crapped out again so I eliminated it altogether and that side is hooked up factory without a relay. I have new motors and restored and lubed both door tracks. My driver window has about twice the power and speed with factory set tup than the pass side does with a relay.
I am going to NOT use relays with my 79 when I get to that point.
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My car is horrible but it's mostly because of the aftermarket glass which is curved too much and drags on the felt guides, some of which I had to remove. The go up and down but painfully slow.
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Mine are actually pretty quick for being the original setup. Just till that last little bit
Kerry, I think he was referring to the factory power window relay, not the added 4 relays lots of people do.