TAC Spotlight => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: ryeguy2006a on January 19, 2023, 07:30:12 AM
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My name is Ryan, And I bought my 1976 Trans Am when I was a Junior in High School (Spring 2005). I first went to look at this car with my friend because my uncle was interested in the car. He said this was too much of a project for him, but I couldn't get the car out of my head. (And that's when I caught the fever for Pontiac's) So I convinced my dad that I could do this project and for him to loan me the money. Eventually he was convinced, and we came home with a brand new to me 1976 Trans Am 400 4 speed.
Now this car was 100% complete when I got the car. My dad told me that I couldn't touch the car until I completely paid him back. I worked so hard during the summer and finally paid him off. That following Saturday I decided to do a full frame off restoration, and little did I know what I had gotten myself into. This is where I started that Saturday afternoon.
When I first started working on this project I was going for more of an original restoration, but have changed where I want to take the project. I have been on this site for a while now, and decided to take more of a resto-mod direction for my car. I want to keep the car's original feel, but update it with all of the modern conveniences.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/Jul31641-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/Jul31648-1.jpg)
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As you can see the car needed a lot of rust repair, although it wasn't too badly rusted. It was isolated mostly to the lower quarter panels and a few sections of the floor pans. I put new quarter skins on both sides and put new floor pan patch panels from Goodmark.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/110_1033-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/Jul31657-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1686825_IMG1-1.jpg)
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I cleaned up the rear end and put it under the car and got some primer on the shell.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1121287_IMG-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1707091_IMG-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1121297_IMG-1.jpg)(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1696950_IMG-1.jpg)
Once that was done, I cleaned up and rebuilt the front sub-frame with all new bushings and ball joints and put it under the car. I sand blasted the A-arms and painted them with POR 15 along with the frame.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1121298_IMG-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1131369_IMG-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1131376_IMG-1.jpg)
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Once I got the car on 4 wheels it was time to start the body work on the car. My dad and I worked to get the car into primer and get the car prepped for paint. I was able to get some rust free doors and fenders. The rest of the parts that came with the car were in good shape so they didn't need to be replaced.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1381-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1377-1.jpg)(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1376-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1292-1.jpg)(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1842-1.jpg)(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1841-1.jpg)
I wanted to remove the rear window because I thought that there may be some rust in the channel and I was glad that I removed it because there was some in there. Nothing was through so I cleaned it up and got it primed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1282-1.jpg)
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Once the doors were hung and on the car it was time to do the rest of the body panels. We started with the fenders, then worked our way to the hood and trunk lid.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_2194_00-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/100_2202-1.jpg)
Then we worked on the hood.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_2258-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_2334-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_2331-1.jpg)
And the deck lid. There were a lot of dents so I had to fill them in and make them smooth. Took more time than I thought.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_2259-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_2260-1.jpg)
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The engine that I am using is a 1973 Pontiac 400 that has been mildly rebuilt. It has been bored .030 with TRW postions, stock rods and crank. The heads are 6x-8 and an aluminum Edelbrock P4B intake. I have several pictures of the various carbs that I have run on my car, when I finally settled on a Holley 750 DP.
Here is what I started with
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/Jul31649-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1121299_IMG-1.jpg)
All cleaned up and ready for some paint.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1131383_IMG-1.jpg)
Painted Pontiac Blue, if you look closesly you can see the cross hatches from the rebore.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1131384_IMG-1.jpg)
All cleaned up and back in the car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1131387_IMG-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1696946_IMG-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/1696947_IMG-1.jpg)
Here is my engine with the stock quadra-jet.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1141443_IMG-1.jpg)
And with the 600 Edelbrock carb,
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1201-1.jpg)
with the 850 Holley DP race carb, Way too much for this engine.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0510-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0511-1.jpg)
And finally I settled with the 750 DP
Here is a picture of the Borg Warner Super T-10 all cleaned up too.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/1131385_IMG1-1.jpg)
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I also upgraded to cooling fans from a 1999 Camaro LS1, and used a home build relay box with dual sensors to control each fan.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1202-1.jpg)
I cleaned all the brackets up and painted them with POR15. I also put on the rest of my engine accessories.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1286-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1287-1.jpg)
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I mounted the relay box where the charcoal canister used to be on the core support.
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Now we are off to the paint shop!! The car was primed with high build primer and blocked roughtly 7-10 time to ensure it was super smooth. Then I had my body guy lay down 3 coats of Ford 2010 Dark Shadow Gray paint. That was followed with 3-4 coats of Clear for that deep finish. I also had them paint my dash and rear trim panel with SEM Trim Black semi-gloss paint to replicate what it came with from the factory.
Well to my surprise one morning when I started to work on my car there was a hair line crack down the side of my quarter panel where the skin was put on and come to find out we didn't weld the skin on with the correct technique so it cracked. I took it to the body shop for them to repair and paint the car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0983-1.jpg)
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Then the dash and rear deck panel got some color.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0999-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1001-2.jpg)
Then some Dark Shadow Gray
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0994-1.jpg)
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Then a little wet sand and buffing.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1016-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1021-1.jpg)
Once we got the car back it was time to assemble the car finally.
We got the car home finally and put the doors on and got the deck lid adjusted. After fighting with the doors for a while we were finally able to get them adjusted to my liking. Then I was able to get the front end on and took the car out for a photo shoot with my dad's 1971 Chevelle SS.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0504-1.jpg)
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And now the front end goes on.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0508-1.jpg)
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I also replaced the factory mesh for a honeycomb mesh. Eventually it will get painted body color.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0522-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0523-1.jpg)
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And the photo shoot, with my Dad's Chevelle SS. Also here is a shot of my Custom Chromed Aluminum 17x8.5 rims. I got an awesome deal on them and couldn't pass them up. They are beautiful and the chrome is amazing. Gotta love Craigslist.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/DSCN0525-1.jpg)
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Next was time to put some interior back in. I had a parts car that had the 160 mph speedo, so I upgraded to that, and I already had the 8k tach. I also got a perfect dash, door panels, front and rear seats, and the headliner board. I was able to get a lot out of the parts car that saved me buying all of the parts individually. I also bought the dual speaker upgrade from NPD, Year One rear package tray, refurbished 8 track player, and an upgraded factory AM radio with all modern internals.
Before I laid down the carpet, I bought some Fat Mat insulation and put that on the floor pans up to the trunk.
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Here are the Speakers and the new speedo.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1276-1.jpg)(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/100_1280-1.jpg)
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Here is the Upgraded AM radio that I bought along with the fully rebuilt 8 track player.
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/103_1957-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/8track2-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/8track-1.jpg)
Here is the Year One rear package tray. I really like it compared to the factory package tray. I think that it really cleans up the rear of the car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0551-1.jpg)
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Here is some more of the Interior being installed. I put in the seats front and rear, along with all the interior plastics. I applied some smooth faux leather material for the headliner. It turned out great considering that I had never done anything like that before. There are also some pictures of the crack free dash that I found in the parts car I bought a long time ago.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0901-1.jpg)
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The next obstacle was to get my exhaust done. I started with some Hooker competetion headers, and was unsure what I was going to run from there. I ended up finding a guy who was selling a custom 3" exhaust with SpinTech mufflers from a 2nd gen Firebird with custom 3" chrome tips that look factory. I bought it and started the intsalltion. Now what I thought would take me a weekend ended up taking me 5 weeks to get done working only on the weekends. I ended up having to cut a lot of the sections and welding/extending/contracting to make it fit the way I wanted to. Here are the pictures that I took along the way.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0885-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0884-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0883-1.jpg)
Before I had the tips to mock up the rear tail pipes.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0886-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0887-1.jpg)
Here are the massive 3" custom factory looking tail pipes. They are pictured with a CD to show you how massive they really are.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0889-1.jpg)
And the tips installed and just peeking out.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20110904_014001_472-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20110904_014016_652-1.jpg)
The completed exhaust hung.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20110905_173130_690-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/DSCN0895-1.jpg)
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I also decided that I wanted to black out the chrome trim around the car includding the door handles. I will eventually do the front grills and fog light bezels.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/20111022_200208_444-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/20111022_200154_117-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0921-1.jpg)
Then I was able to get the rear of the car buttoned up.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0922-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0923-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0928-1.jpg)
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And that brings us to about October 2011, when I made a huge mistake. I finally got the car tuned up and running very well. I wanted to take the car for a drive. I thought that I checked everything, but overlooked a small and fundamental area... my lug nuts. When I was pulling the car back into the driveway, the front wheel feel off causing it to contact my front fender. I felt so stupid for not having them properly torqued, but it could have been much worse. The only thinkg affected was the driver's fender. I cut my losses and took the fender back to have it repaired. It came back about 5 months later, but I wasn't until I needed it.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/DSCN0895-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/DSCN0896-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/th_DSCN0897-1.jpg) (http://"http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ryeguy2006a/?action=view¤t=DSCN0897.mp4")
Here is the damage.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0898-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0899-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/DSCN0900-1.jpg)
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It was actually that event that made me turn my build into more of a Resto-Mod build. I will explain. I was forced to take the front end apart due to the damage. While I had it apart I decided to upgrade the front springs to PTFB GT springs along with Koni single Adjustable front shocks. I also got the PTFB solid body bushings. I made the order to Custom Works, all in all I bought Keith's C5 kit with hubs, brackets, bearings, SS lines, Solid body bushings, Koni's, and the GT springs.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120114_210439_696-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120205_130119_481-1.jpg)
This is the new ride height.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120220_165742_98-1.jpg)
Since I was tearing into the car I also decided I wanted to shave the firewall, but instead I went with block off plate. I went with .050 Aluminum with is the NHRA Spec for sheet aluminum. I will eventually upgrade to the Vintage Air Gen IV Setup for my car. For now I am going to run without one.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120108_140236_337-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120108_140258_303-1.jpg)
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(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120204_130546_316-1.jpg)
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That brings me up to Last weekend where I finally did my C5 conversion on a budget. Excluding the wheels I have $325 bucks into it. I found deals on things and jumped on them when I could. I also have a complete LS1 rear brake setup to do install after I get the car running a little bit. I want go get it on the road before I tackle that job.
I wasn't able to get as much as I wanted done, but still I was able to get a huge step forward. I was able to get my C5 brakes installed. I have been collecting parts for this upgrade for a long time and now I was finally able to get it installed. It took a lot of work and patience making sure that everything lined up and was going to be square. I used the included instructions from Custom Works to modify the spindles to accept the new C5 calipers and brackets.
First I had to actually cut into my spindles, and let me tell you that was a cool feeling that I was doing the upgrade, but once that one ear came off of the spindle I realized there was no turning back.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_091220_655-1.jpg)
Once the ears came off the spoilers to clear the new brackets I used a grinding wheel to clean up and smooth out the areas where I made the cut. I think that it turned out really well.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_091227_561_1-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_091232_753-1.jpg)
The two holes for the old dust cover need to be drilled out with a 3/8 inch drill bit and then tapped with a 7/16 by 14 threads tap. This is what took a really long time is making sure that the hole for the tap was completely square and that the tap was going in straight. If this is off it can cause failure by making the bolt fatigued.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_094206_192-1.jpg)
Next I had to re-install the spindles onto the car and getting the C5 brackets installed and torqued down. I made sure to check all of the fitment of the brackets before I did a final install and glad that I did because I ended up needing to remove more of the spindle. I also made sure to torque down the ball joints to the correct specs and install the cotter pins so the bolts won't come out again. I bought new grade 8 bolts and torqued them down to what was recommended by Custom Works. I added a little thread lock to them for some added insurance.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_103850_502-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_103856_824-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_104703_141-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_130702_161-1.jpg)
Now it was time to install the hubs that I also bought from Custom Works. They are pieces that were machined from 3rd gen F-body rotors and turned down into hubs to allow for the correct spacing for the wheels. They came from Custom Works with new inner and outer wheel bearings along with new dust covers for the rear. One downfall to the hubs is the studs are Metric, so I either have to press on some new SAE studs make sure not to mix and match my lugs. Once they were installed I torqued the spindle nuts down to 12 ft/lbs. to set the bearings, then backed the nuts off until there was some play back and forth with the hub. Once I felt the play I tightened the nut to the next closest hold for the cotter pin and king nut to line up. I put new cotter pins in and put the dust caps back on.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_131007_657-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_131013_212-1.jpg)
This was the most exciting part for me. I put on the rotors and calipers to check the clearance with the wheels, and what luck the 17" rims that I bought fit over the calipers! Actually I knew they were going to fit because before I bought the rims I used a template that was supplied by Kore3 to measure the rims. Although I wasn't 100% sure, I was confident enough to buy the rims. They fit great, although I may need a small spacer for the rims when I install new pads, as when they have new pads, they calipers float too far out causing the rims to contact the caliper.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_111020_922-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_134329_269-1.jpg)
Lastly I installed the stainless steel braided hoses that came with the kit. They are conversion hoses that are metric on the side for the calipers and SAE for the side that bolts to the brake lines. That way it is a complete bolt on kit that doesn't require any other fittings. They came with new clips, crush washers, and bolts. Very complete kit from Custom Works, and they did a great job with the parts that I ordered. And last but not least my favorite picture of the day.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_134704_136-1.jpg)
There is some slight surface rust on the rotors, but will clean up as soon as I hit the brakes.The only thing that needs to be finished is the brakes need to be bled. I tried to bleed them, but for some reason they were being difficult. It was getting late so I decided to call it a day. I was able to cross that off my list of things to do. I was putting this off because I knew that it was going to be time consuming, and I am glad that I jumped in head first.
I also was able to get some 1976 grills from a member on 78ta.com, and I will be painting them black to match the trim. I am really excited to see what the car is going to look like when it is finished.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_213751_457-1.jpg)
That is all for now. Enjoy.
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I was able to take Friday and Saturday off of work this week and I was able to get a lot done on the car. My first goal was to get the fenders and front end of my car back together. I put the fenders and nose piece together and all of the body lines matched up very nicely. The fender that is on the car was actually the fender that was damaged earlier. My body guy did a fantastic job of getting it back together and you can't tell that the fender was ever damaged. Here are some pictures.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_094737_188-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_094744_508-1.jpg)
I was able to get the marker lights in and they fit very nicely.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_115942_911-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_123936_3-1.jpg)
Then I got the front bumper on.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163026_778-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163033_643_1-1.jpg)
Here is a picture of the stance with all of the front sheet metal on.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163047_723-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163101_580-1.jpg)
I blacked out the front grills and the fog light bezels.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163622_132-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_165426_842-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_171058_250-1.jpg)
I feel like I didn't get that much done, but I think it is because I am just getting back to where I was before I had the incident with the fender. This is all that I got done on Friday. More to come for Saturday. I will post those pictures up soon.
Ryan
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Now I was also able to work on the car this Saturday as well. I wasn't able to get as much done as I hoped, but progress is progress. What took me so long was the first two tasks I did; Kick panel installation and fixing the fuel gauge. I was able to get the fuel gauge reading correctly as well as putting my kick panels on. I didn't think they were going to take that long, but that is how it goes. They ended up taking me most of the morning to accomplish. Any way, I was able to get those tasks done and on to other things.
Here is the car in the air when I was fixing the fuel gauge.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_120418_931-1.jpg)
Here are the kick panels that I installed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175252_378-1.jpg)
Once they were done, I was able to get my Koni Adjustable shocks on. That was a good feeling bolting on something that was new!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_120449_960-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_120454_341-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_121746_524-1.jpg)
While the car was on the lift, I also painted my rear drums black so they weren't in primer any longer.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175833_937-1.jpg)
I was having trouble with my factory 8k tach so instead of having it sent away to be fixed, I gutted an Autometer gauge that I had laying around and grafted it into my factory gauge bezel. I think that it turned out great and will be a good temporary fix to my issue of not having a tach.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_153507_607-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_162229_8-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_162233_742-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175333_577-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175400_422-1.jpg)
I now have the rest of my parts all painted! I got the wheel spoilers and shaker back from my paint guy. Let me tell you it looks so good. I cannot wait to put them all on the car. It is going to change the appearance of the car completely. Here they are.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175453_585-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175507_87-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175513_78-1.jpg)
Here are just another few photos of the car just parked and in its current condition.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175444_425-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175433_336-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175421_821-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175415_632-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175303_81-1.jpg)
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Here are the pictures of my C3 new Master Cylinder. I still need to clean up my engine bay so please excuse all of the dust from sitting around.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120325_173420_227-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120325_173428_671-1.jpg)
I ended up buying a pair of Bosch E-code glass headlights off of Ebay, for $50 shipped. These will allow me to do the H4/9003 upgrade for a much brighter headlights during the night. Also allows me to have a replacable bulbs incase one blows, the whole headlight doesn't need to be replaced. I am very happy with the quaility when I opened them and they look more clear than what was shown in the pictures. From what I read online these headlights are on par with Hella, but are 1/3 the price. Now I had to buy some bulbs from the auto parts store, so all in I have $80 into them. I will give a better review once they are installed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120329_074842_988-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120329_074912_628-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120329_074925_394-1.jpg)
I hope to get some time in the garage this weekend, but no guarantees. If I do, I will get the hood and wheel spoilers on and possibly the shaker. It would sure be nice to see the car complete.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I was able to put in some time this Friday to get some more accomplished on the car. I have been trying to just get as much done on the car as I can. I worked on the car from Friday at around 7:30 and continued on until 4am the next day! Once I start working on the car I just don't want to start. I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but that is how it goes.
The first thing I wanted to do was get my dash bezel ready to install. It was super dirty and wanted it to look as good as it could without being refinished. Eventually would like to send it out to Randy Combs to be refinished, but at this time I need to focus on getting the car on the road and things like that for a later date. Here is what I started with.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_190401_253-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_190405_885-1.jpg)
I got it cleaned up and installed, after I got the wipers working that is. I am not sure what I did to get the wipers working, but I just started to move things around inside and it finally started to work? The wipers were a mystery to me, so I am glad that they are working now. I no longer have any wiring issues, so that was a great weight lifted off my shoulders.
Here is the bezel installed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_023434_545-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_023449_7-1.jpg)
I also installed the door lock switch that I bought a few months ago. I bought it from ILLTA77, and he included the wiring pigtail and a new decal for the switch. Here is what it looks like installed. I don't have the power locks installed yet, but it will be something I do in the future.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_023441_781-1.jpg)
Now here is what I was really excited about. I was finally able to get my wheel spoilers on! When I originally bought the front fenders I was told they were off of a 79 and I knew that we had to change the front of the fenders where the mount to accept the front bumper. But to my surprise, the must have been off of a 77-78, because my front spoilers bolted right on. I thought I was going to have to drill new holes for the front fenders. I am super happy with the fit and finish of the spoilers. They all fit so nicely. I have no regrets to buying original oem wheel spoilers.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_193815_154-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_193820_870-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_200504_173-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_200450_918-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000628_467-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000437_614-1.jpg)
I also put a different nose emblem on. It is chrome and black, instead of the original red one. I think that it looks much better than the red one.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_001147_141-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_001151_610-1.jpg)
And to top it all off, I was able to get the hood on. I still need to get the gaps all worked out on the hood, but it's on! I couldn't be happier, well I will be when I get the shaker I guess. I really feel like the car will be done soon. It has been so long since I have seen the car in one piece that it almost sounds unreal to have it all done. Also, don't mind the hood, it has been wet sanded and not buffed. I hope to have that done next weekend.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000425_368-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000445_31-1.jpg)
That is all for now, Enjoy.
Ryan
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I didn't get a whole lot done on Friday, but it was a very rewarding step. I had my paint guy come over and wet sand and buff out my car. It looks absolutely fantastic. I took it outside to get some pictures of the car in the sun. I was just taken back at how much I love the color. It took most of the afternoon to get done, but was worth it. It was nice to see the car complete and what it will look like once I have all of the little details worked out and the bugs all taken care of. Here is what we started with first thing in the afternoon and where we finished later in the day.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141558_254-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141607_73-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141613_877-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141620_580-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_142719_602-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_142723_691-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_151121_930-1.jpg)
I sanded and hand buffed the shaker. I think that it turned out pretty good for my first time.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_151126_507-1.jpg)
And outside with the new stance with the GT springs from PTFB. I am absolutely happy with the stance. Possibly lower the rear slightly, but overall very happy. I also just threw the shaker under the hood to get an idea of what it will eventually look like.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162616_777-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162632_55-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162641_940-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162655_964-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162716_18-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162908_567-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_163020_455-1.jpg)
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Saturday we went over the car again with a couple other compounds to really make the paint pop, and get rid of some of the small swirls. I thought that it looked good yesterday, and when he got done today, I was just amazed. it just looks so clear and reflective. I took some more pictures of the paint, it looks like a mirror!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143620_402-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143624_405-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143638_953-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143708_787-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143719_104-1.jpg)
I also did a little work here and there. I put in my Bosch H4/9003 conversion headlights in and realized that I only had one headlight bucket retainer for the lights. So looks like I need to find one in order to finish those. I did test them and they bolted right in. Very happy with the fit of those.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143735_650-1.jpg)
I also modified my stock shaker base to lower it in order to fit it over the Holley carb. I have to finish adjusting the hood before I finalize the fitment of the shaker, but here is the trial run for the height. Let me know if you think that it is too low? I feel that it is slightly too low, but then again the hood isn't completely fit yet.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_144334_726-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_144338_846-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_144349_904-1.jpg)
That is all for this weekend. More to come in the short future.
Ryan
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Worked on the car on Saturday for a few hours and finished up some loose ends that I have been putting off for a while. I spent all of the morning working again on my brakes... The brake lines that I bought weren't going to work with my set-up as they were hitting the frame. I think that they aren't working because of the lowering springs that I bought for the fronts. Fortunately I had a set of stainless steel lines that were from my factory brakes and they worked perfectly with my current set-up. I didn't take any pictures of this because it has been an on-going dilemma and I wasn't happy of how I was spending my morning. Once that was done and I was finally able to bleed my brakes for I hope, the last time I could focus my time on other areas. I had some left over material from my headliner and I had my mom sew me together a shift boot. I tried to do it myself and failed miserably.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_102048_421-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_143037_936-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164519_527-1.jpg)
I didn't get any pictures of this last time, but I deleted the window guides off my weather stripping rail for a cleaner look. It isn't a big deal, but I think a lot of little things like this add up to make a really clean car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164454_533-1.jpg)
I painted the rest of my trim, SEM trim black, along with my wiper arms. I installed the door locks and was surprised at how easily I installed them! I was thinking it would be much harder than it was. Good for my time management.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164436_190-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164447_159_1-1.jpg)
I also put in the rest my interior and got my passengers seat installed. I put in the radio, but didn't get it hooked up. I am not going to worry about that at a later date and just concentrate on getting the car on the road and getting the bugs worked out. Also, I am going to used the spare headliner material to recover my console lid.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164523_840-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164514_885-1.jpg)
Finally, I got the hood aligned and started to get the shaker base modified to accept my Holley carb. Here are some pictures of the height at which I like the shaker. Let me know if you guys think that is a good height. I moved it up slightly from the previous post. I like it much better.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_171532_509-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_171538_723-1.jpg)
All for now.
Ryan
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I worked on the car for a few hours on Saturday and I was able to get a few things done. I installed my new battery and that seemed to get rid of the problem I was having with the "Draw", just ended up being a bad battery. I was able to get the other headlight installed and wired up. I want to give a big thanks to richduty455, on TAC, he went above and beyond to get me a headlight retainer.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120428_114728-1.jpg)
I also put on my door trim, which was the last piece of trim that I needed to install.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120428_114702-1.jpg)
I won't be able to work on the car this coming weekend, but I am looking forward to getting a lot done for the following weekend. I sent in the request for registration for vintage plates yesterday. I hope to have that back soon and then I will be able to legally drive the car on the road.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I got some parts at my doorstep on Saturday and yesterday. I got some more of the parts that I was looking for to complete my LS1 rear brakes for my car. All I need to finish the rear brake swap is the spacers, ebrake cables, and adjustable proportioning valve. I am really looking forward to this and it should make a big difference in looks and appearance.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213412-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213417-1.jpg)
I also got the blocker kit that was offered to me from Am Fan who is a member here on TAC. He gave me a price that I couldn't refuse and I am glad that I got it. I will have to do something to modify the shaker piece as it is for a 77-81 style shaker piece. I don't think that will be a problem because it is a flat piece of fiberglass. I should be able to make another one and fit it into my shaker. I should be able to put this on this weekend and finish up the rest of the little things.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213630-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213651-1.jpg)
I should get my registration back either by the end of this week or the beginning of next week. I should have sent this in sooner and not waited, but that is the way that it goes.
All for now.
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I finally finished my interior. I got all of the seat belts installed and vacuumed out the carpet. I couldn't be happier with the way that it turned out. I also detailed the car and got all of the buffing residue off the whole car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_011351-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_011356-1.jpg)
I also decided to recover my center console lid. Eventually I will get a new one, but I want to make it good enough to get me through the summer. Here is what I did let me know what you think. Keep in mind that I did this at 2:30 this morning and did it in about 20 mins. I used some more left over headliner material that I had. *
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_011737-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_013434-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_014640-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_015623-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_021821-1.jpg)
I also took my car for a test drive, again and unfortunately I found out that I need new axle bearings... So that means that I am now thinking of just putting the money forward and doing the rear disk brake swap. I don't want to have to pull the axles twice so I am not sure what I want to do.
I should have my registration back next week. I am using vintage plates that used to be my dad's plates. He ran them on his 1970 Chevelle, and his 1970 Camaro SS back in the day. I think that it will be really cool to use his original plates on my car, I know that it means a lot to him too.
Thanks,
Ryan
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Ok, I have a lot of updates from yesterday. I took the day off and worked my very hard and I am very glad that I did because I needed every minute I had yesterday. I was putting the finishing touches on my car throughout the day yesterday. I had a lot of projects going on. I will start with my blocker kit because that was the first thing I started.
Since I got such a great deal on the blocker kit I bought here I can't really complain, but it wasn't as simple as I thought to install. First the kit that I bought was for 77-79, meaning that I had to make my own insert for the shaker. This piece holds the filter. So I re-purposed my parents old shower and created a new shaker insert. I think that it turned out pretty good. I started with a piece of cardboard and scissors to get the right shape, then used the fiberglass board.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_085159-1.jpg)
Here is the board fit in the shaker.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_085217-1.jpg)
Cut the whole for the filter. And looks just like the one from blockers.... Well sorta.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_090354-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_091206-1.jpg)
And the insert with the filter installed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_093909-1.jpg)
Then onto the liquid nails and wait 24 hours. (which I didn't expect)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_101452-1.jpg)
Also, since I have a Holley carb the shaker base wouldn't just fit in there. Of course why would it just bolt on that wouldn't make any sense. Anyway I have a neighbor that is really good with fiberglass and he helped me out by cutting out some holes for the float level bowls go on the Holley and patched up the holes. He even painted it for me. Great guy, he loves cars too. Even if they are ricers...
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_102151-1.jpg)
Ok, onto my next hurdle. We can call this an adventure, and I will explain along the way. I mentioned before that my rear end was making horrible scrapping sounds, so I figured it was the bearings. Well when I got the axles out I found that to be exactly the case. The bearings were toast and the axles were severely scarred.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_113640-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_113655-1.jpg)
I went to Autozone the night before and borrowed all the necessary tools to remove and re-install the bearings. Absolutely worth the time to get the right tools. I didn't exactly know what I needed for the install, so I bought the two stock bearings they had in stock and the one saver bearing they had. Once I got the axles out and realized I needed two saver bearings... So I made a phone call to one of my car guy friends, and what do you know he had a pair of z28 axles that were in great shape. The best part, only cost 20 bucks for the pair. Here is the comparison.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_134610-1.jpg)
And up close.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_134628-1.jpg)
And while I had the rear apart I painted my rear diff cover to match my body color. I thought it gave the underside a little more color than just the black paint.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_181022-1.jpg)
That didn't sound like much of an adventure, but trust me there was a lot or running around to the parts store getting new fluids bolts, and then finally negotiating with the axles.
On to the sway bar, nothing can be as easy as the sway bar right? Wrong, I went to bolt on my sway bar and the threads on one of the bolts pulled out. So, I saw a trick that so one did on pro-touring that worked great. They drilled out the holes enough to fit a shoulder nut up into the holes and then weld the nut to the frame. Pretty cool little trick.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_145712-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_145736-1.jpg)
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To continue on, I found out that because I have a new MC (C3 disk/disk) that I need to have a residual valve installed for the rear drums. The residual valve is built into the factory MC, so when I switched I no longer had one and the drums won't work as efficiently without one, so I bought one. I still need to install it soon, just need to figure out where to install it inline.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_114631-1.jpg)
Now, off to my appointment over an hour late. It is a good thing my uncle owns the shop or I doubt I would have gotten it in. I needed a front end alignment and inspection. I think that my uncle was messing with me during the inspection, saying things like "I'm not going to use my license to inspect this." or "I doubt this is going to pass like this" After all that work I was thinking, this can't be the case. It ended up getting the inspection and alignment done and then I was actually legal to drive my own car down the road. So first thing I did was got some gas. Which judging by how quickly my gauge went down will be something I am going to be very familiar with. Here are a few pictures to end the day.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_180933-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_180951-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_181045-1.jpg)
Right after I got back from the gas station. And just so I don't get people mad at me, if you remember my shaker needed 24 hours to dry. It will not have that filter on it going forward. It seems surreal to me that I am actually driving this car after 7 years of ownership. I have already put 20 miles on the car and hope the numbers keep going up.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_195713-1.jpg)
I have been waiting for a while to put this decal on so here it is. I think it looks so cool on the muscle cars. Since I have bought several parts from them, I will give them some free advertising. Also you can see my vintage plates. These actually belonged to my dad in the 70's so that is pretty cool that I can use them.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_222136-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_222146-1.jpg)
That is all for now, I hope to get some nice photos from the car show tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I was able to get my car done enough to attend my first show. Here are a bunch of pictures. Once I got back from the show I took a bunch of pictures of the car at my parents house. Enjoy.
This Cobra had a 521 cu. fuel injected BBF! Wow.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_115953-1.jpg)
I was too busy at the show to take many pictures of my car, but once I got home I took a bunch of them at my parents. That is where I store the car when I am not driving it.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154012-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154211-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154229-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154252-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154316-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154339-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154349-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154400-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154411-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154758-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154808-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154817-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154831-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154842-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_1548511-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154902-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154851-1.jpg)
Lots of pictures, but I guess I am just a proud parent, haha.
Cheers,
Ryan
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Great to see you repost this. I bet you're having fun reliving the journey!
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Ryan, after following Project Penny Pincher and your new house upgrades, I knew you were a man of many talents. Thanks for taking the time to repost the story on your 76TA. This new to me as it happened before I was a member of TAC. I like all the details and photos of your restoration, even when things don't always go according to plan. I hope it inspires some members to post on their projects or repost on previous projects. I love the part where your dad made you pay for the car before you could start working on it. Also, about you and your father working on it together. That kind of time together is priceless.
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Great to see this build, thanks for reposting.
Tom H
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It's really crazy to me that it's been over 10 years since I sold the car... It's definitely cool going through all of the old pictures and thinking about all the work that went into the car. There's still a bunch of pictures that I need to update here, but I'll do that when I have more time. I haven't even gotten to the LS swap part yet! :cool:
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There's still a bunch of pictures that I need to update here, but I'll do that when I have more time. I haven't even gotten to the Best part, the LS swap :cool:
There,I fixed it for you.
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Whoa boy Ryan! It took just as long to post this thread as to do the rebuild on the car! j/k! Nice work on that car!
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Thank you for going to all the trouble of reposting your awesome thread!
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I was finally able to get a good day here on a weekend in Upstate, NY to go for a cruise. My wife and I got in the car and just drove with no particular place in mine. We ended up driving to Montrose, PA and turning around and heading north on some roads that we picked at random. We ended up putting just over 75 miles on the odometer, and it felt great. The new exhaust pipes weren't contacting my axle over ever bump, and the ride was really smooth. I ended up picking some nice windy roads, and the PTFB GT springs and Koni shocks worked flawlessly. I am very happy with the performance of the car so far. I still need to fine tune my carb, but other than that it is great.
Once I got the car back to my house, I realize how dirty the car was. I decided to give my car it's first real bath, and the first coat of wax. I had to wait to wax it until all of the parts were fully cured, 90 days. Although the shell of the car was painted over a year ago. Any way the car really polished up, and I decided to take it out for a photo shoot. The pictures turned out much better than I thought from my cell phone. Here are the results.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193458-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193512-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193538-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193554-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193606-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195253-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195306-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195322-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195335-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195347-1.jpg)
This is my favorite picture from the day.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195409-1.jpg)
Finally, here is a picture of my rims all cleaned up, with the C5 Brakes showing through.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195422-1.jpg)
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After a great summer filled with many trips in my car, I am getting ready for the winter. I made myself some car stands to put my car on just like the ones used by DSE, so I can work on the car up in the air at ride height. I haven't finished them all, but I will have them all done shortly. I build the ones shown out of treated lumber and will use them for the bottom stand, and the rest will be out of regular untreated lumber. They will put my car in the air about 12", which will give me some space in order to work under the car this winter.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_20120922_165051-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_20120922_165059-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_20120923_122754-1.jpg)
And lastly, here is a picture of what I should be picking up this Sunday. I will let you guys guess why I got it. Let's just say I will have a busy winter.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif)
Ryan
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Ok, made some big progress towards my engine swap. I had my buddy come over and we stripped the front end of the car off so that today I would be able to just pull the motor out. After a few hours I was able to get the motor down and pull the body off. It is the reverse of how I have ever done engine swaps, but is actually the proper way to remove the engine from the 4th gen cars. Here are some pictures of the process.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_134042-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_144355-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_144703-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_145024-1.jpg)
And the motor is gone...well from this car anyway.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_145004-1.jpg)
Here is the mess that will be swapped over to my car. I need to strip off all of the emissions equiptment and remove the wires from the ECU that are not necessary, such as the rear O2 sensors.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_145018-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_150012-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_151051-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_151101-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_151117-1.jpg)
I found this written on the bellhousing for the T-56. I think that it says Halcucca Motorsports JB Performed
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_153809-1.jpg)
This is what I ended up with once I stipped away the wiring.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_160215-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_171158-1.jpg)
Now that the engine is out, I need to get the engine cleaned up and figuring out my wiring right off first. I ordered some engine mounts from Dirty Dingo made for 74-81 F-body's and they should be here soon. The next thing to purchase is going to be Dynatech LSx engine swap headers. They are Ceramic coated and fit very nicely.
That is all for now.
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Got a little cleaning up done around my garage and the motor and trans. I also got some of my swap parts ready to install into my car. Here are the Dirty Dingo engine mounts, DSE hydraulic clutch bracket and a new Hurst shifter knob.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_092704-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_113609-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_113557-1.jpg)
Here are some before and after pictures of the engine clean up.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_163219-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_163230-1.jpg)
And after a little Purple Power.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_183739-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_183744-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_183750-1.jpg)
Not a bunch of updates, but I was busy parting out the Camaro, and didn't have a ton of time for the TA.
All for this weekend.
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I got all of this from a company called Waytek, and they specialize in wiring, and since it is a bulk company you can get some tremendous deals. I highly recommend the company. If you look I got two spools of wiring. I bought one red and one black 18 gauge automotive grade wiring reels 250 ft. for 18 each!! That is cheap. I also got a Bussmann fuse/relay box that is sealed and uses micro relays and micro blade style fuses. I also bought all of the necessary pieces to wire it up.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121023_214009-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121023_214123-1.jpg)
I also bought a brand new in the box Baer adjustable proportioning valve for my LS1 rear disk swap. That is the final piece that I needed. Now, I just need to actually do the swap!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121026_203330-1.jpg)
That is all for today, but I should have some pictures from tomorrow of the first test fit of my new Engine!! I have to pick up my motor mounts from the post office first thing tomorrow and while the wife is away at an event I will be busy trying to get my engine in.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I got my motor and transmission in for a first test fit. Overall I was very happy with the fitment. I will have to take the motor in and out a few more times, but it fits really great for a first test. Here are some pictures.
Here is a picture of the Dirty Dingo engine mounts. They fit great and they are a very great company to work with. I ended up buying the wrong engine mounts, and needed to exchange them for the right ones. They were great and I was able to ship mine to them and get the new ones in less than a week. Excuse the oil on the engine.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_121353-1.jpg)
Here is one of many times the motor will be on the engine hoist, but this is the first test fit.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_121402-1.jpg)
And here it is in with the Corvette Fuel Rail Covers. I like what I am seeing. And for those of you that may ask, the motor is tilted towards the rear because the shifter won't fit into the interior...yet. So for now it is tilted towards down in the rear.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_124328-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_124336-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_124352-1.jpg)
Here are some pictures of the ground clearance.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142710-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142723-1.jpg)
Now, the big debate I have been having is which headers to buy. But since I had the engine in there, I thought why not check and see how the stock manifolds will fit. And to my surprise they fit great! I have at least a fingers width around everything. So, for now I am just going to use the stock manifolds and save some money.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142732-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142742-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142751-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142802-1.jpg)
And now it was time to see if we can get that shifter into the car, so I got out the sawzall and started cutting a little at a time. And I ended up with this.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142843-1.jpg)
I know that the cuts aren't that clean, but I will make some panels and weld them in to make it look good. The reason that I cut through the factory 4 speed hump is because it was already shot. You can't see it, but before I ever got the car someone tried to change the shifter and decided to crudely cut a hole in the side of the hump. So, for now I am just cutting it up, and will probably drill out the spot welds and patch in a new panel.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142850-1.jpg)
Now, a test fit of the console. Another surprise to me is that the shifter is very close to the stock location. Not sure what an auto console will fit like, but I may end up making an adapter for the shifter to have it come out in the factory 4 speed location.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_144209-1.jpg)
As you can see it is only about 2-3 inches back from the stock location.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_144224-1.jpg)
That is all for now. Won't be long and I will be uploading a video of the first start up!
Ryan
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It doesn't look like a lot was accomplished, but it was certainly a lot of work. Pulled the motor out again, that was temporarily in the engine bay in order to mount my new engine mounts. With the mounts in the stock 350 location on the subframe, the mounts didn't quite fit. So what I did was got the engine exactly where I wanted it, and drilled my own holes.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_203615-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_203705-1.jpg)
Here is the motor in the permanent location.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214926-1.jpg)
The Dirty Dingo mounts with new Anchor engine mounts for 1980-81 Camaro with 350 Chevy Engine.
Now, I would like to ask for everyone's opinion. The shifter is located farther forward than I was thinking, so using an automatic console would put the shifter too far forward. So my question to everyone, is what do you guys think of moving the stock 4 speed console rearward about 2-3 inches? Here is the console complete as it would look in the car. I was going to flip the upper mounting locations on the front 180 degrees, and it should give me enough room to still mount in the stock location. I plan to bend the shifter to fit more towards the center, as currently it is a straight shifter that is bent slightly towards the driver. Here are the pictures in 1st gear, neutral and 6th gear. Which are all the most extreme shifter positions.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214838-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214830-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214818-1.jpg)
Here are a few pictures of how the console looks in the proposed position.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214854-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214915-1.jpg)
Here is what the difference is between the mount and where I plan to flip it 180 degrees and mount it in the stock location. Don't mind the wiring mess.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214903-1.jpg)
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I finally did enough research on the wiring for my car that I was able to start eliminating wires from my ECU and cleaning up the wiring harness. My goal is to make the engine ECU a stand alone harness. There are many companies that do this, but most charge around $500 to do. I have spend around 120 bucks for the Bussmann relay box and all of the metri-pack connections for a factory style feel.
I have decided that I will utilize the hole in the firewall that is behind the passenger side cylinder head to route the ecu inside the car. I think it will make for a cleaner build. I will also put my fuses and relay box inside as well. I plan to mount them behind the center console similar to where they were mounted in 1981 where the CCC was located.
I started by pulling the pin retainer caps off of the two large connectors that go to the ECU.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_092614-1.jpg)
I got the factory Pin-outs online and took out the pins that were no longer needed, there were about 20 pins that I was able to take out of both connectors.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_092716-1.jpg)
You can see all of the pins that I pulled back from the main bundle of wires.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_094550-1.jpg)
Now, I am not sure why this was done, but the cam position sensor, had an extension connector with another 2 feet of wiring? So I de-pinned the connectors, and put the correct Cam Position sensor end on the pig-tails.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_105517-1.jpg)
Here is where I am currently, and I am starting to bundle the wires and recreating my harness. I need to finalize the layout and hook-up the fuse and relays to make everything work correctly.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_121254-1.jpg)
And here is a pile of wires that I was able to delete for the system.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_121300-1.jpg)
That is all for now. Lots more wiring to come.
Ryan
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Small update from the weekend. I straightened out some more wiring. If you noticed my lump of wiring from before, I couldn't live with that. I needed to straighten it out and lengthen a few of the wires to get more of a straight shot for the wiring.
Before
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_134140-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_134038-1.jpg)
During
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121109_233508-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121110_004417-1.jpg)
After
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121110_180238-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121110_180245-1.jpg)
Now that I have the wiring straightened out, I need to figure out the next step of my wiring which is my relay/fuse panel. I first need to figure out where I want to mount it, then route the wiring to the fuse panel. I am trying to replicate the factory wiring, by separating circuits in order to make it easier to trouble shoot malfunctions.
All for now.
Ryan
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I am making progress, but it is much slower than I thought. I am taking my time with the wiring as I really only want to do it once.
I finally finished the wiring for the engine. I had to take the wiring harness out and lengthen a bunch of wires to allow the wiring to lay straight rather than bunched up as pictured before. I hopefully installed it for the last time, but time will tell. I still need to Loom the wires with covers, but I am not going to do that until I am 100% sure that the motor runs without any issues. Here is the finishing up of the wiring.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170312-1.jpg)
Here is a plug that I wired in to allow for easy removal of the harness if it became necessary. This harness will route all the wires to the relay box.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170322-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_212724-1.jpg)
And now the harness is finally installed!
Now, I started to think of what console I wanted to run. I bought an auto console for the swap, but wasn't sure if that was the look that I was after. Then for fun, I took the center console from the Camaro that I parted out and put it in place just for fun. To my surprise it actually fit quite well, and didn't look bad at all. I actually really like the way that it looks. I am going to either redye it black to match the rest of the interior or possibly wrap it in leather to give it the original texture.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170431-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170446-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170350-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170408-1.jpg)
I really like the way that it looks, and it feels really comfortable. I really like where everything it located using that console. I will have to bend the shifter slightly, but gives a great feel overall.
Now it was time to start on the relay/fuse box that I bought. It is a very compact unit, that I want to place somewhere where it will be easily accessible, yet completely hidden. I thought about the glove box, just not sure that I like that.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121116_230357-1.jpg)
Then I thought that if I am using the 97-02 center console, it would fit nicely below the upper console cover. It fits down in their and would allow for easy access if needed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121116_232756-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121116_232741-1.jpg)
Although I haven't finalized the placement of the relay/fuse box, I still wanted to start wiring it up. I started off with my computer, diagrams, pinouts, tons of waytech wiring and a lot of luck. I haven't finished with all the relays, but the fuses are all finished.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_222656-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121118_163613-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121118_173007-1.jpg)
And that is all from the weekend. Not too much visual progress, but a lot of solder wire and time. I still need to figure out where exactly I am going to put the relay/fuse box and then I can finally place it. I also need to build brackets for the ECU, new console, and relay box. Along with about 100 other things.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I have decided that I am going to use the 99 center console. It fits really great and will give the interior a little custom feel. And having cup holders won't hurt either.
Anyway, I got tired of wiring so I took a break and focused on other things. I started out by fitting my headers to the engine. I bought some mid-length *Mac headers. They are originally for a 98-02 Camaro so they had to be modified to fit. I had to notch the subframe in order for the passenger side to fit.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_114924-1.jpg)
Once it was notched it fits great. The picture makes the header look closer to the sub-frame than it really is.
The driver's side needed to be bent in towards the engine around 1 1/2" to clear the lower control arm mount. Now after wearing myself out by trying to pry the headers with a long bar and a torch, I realized that I need to work smarter and not harder. I put a ratchet strap around the motor/trans and slowly tightened the strap and heated the headers to make them fit tighter to the block and away from the lower a arm mount.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_010540-1.jpg)
It is hard to see, but you can see there is about a 1/2" gap between the header and LCA mount.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_114948-1.jpg)
And here is the motor with both headers on!!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_115005-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_115012-1.jpg)
I also had to notch the frame to let the Alternator fit. Since I slid the motor back I didn't have much clearance. I cut some small sections out and will weld in some steel to fill in the hole.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_010732-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_100756-1.jpg)
I also finished up my transmission mount. I ended up flipping the cross member and cutting the mount off and re-welding it on. It fits great and I ended up putting it on the farthest stock mount on the sub-frame. So I didn't need to drill any new holes. This has been the easiest part of the swap so far! With the transmission crossmember finished, and the subframe notched for the headers I now have the the final placement for the motor.
It has been over 6 months since I have laid down a bead of weld so be easy on me. But by the end I got the hang of it. Just like riding a bike.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_131538-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_132611-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_131538-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_132625-1.jpg)
And the finished product.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_145046-1.jpg)
I still need to patch up the holes that I made for the alternator and header, so that will have to wait for another day. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Ryan
-
Small visual update, but I got lots accomplished. I finished welding up the notches that I made on the sub-frame. Then ground it all down and sprayed on some duplicolor black paint so it won't rust. Lots of time welding, shaping and grinding that isn't seen.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_210121-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_213726-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_213736-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121124_004953-1.jpg)
Then I made brackets to finalize the mounting of my new center console.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121124_005025-1.jpg)
And here is the final position of the center console. When I am finished it will either get a black vinyl wrap, or painted black to match the interior. I am leaning towards the wrap, but I will decide at a later date.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_221618-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_221605-1.jpg)
Smaller update this weekend, but a lot of time was spent planning and thinking about how best to accomplish what I want to do. Now that I have the brackets finalized, I need to patch up the hole that I made for the 6 speed shifter. Then I will be done welding and can focus back on wiring and the final installation of my engine!! Lots more to do, but having a bunch of fun doing it.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I ordered my gauges last Friday from Speedhut. They had a 25% off sale that I couldn't pass up. I ordered all gauges for my car; Speedo, Tach, water temp, oil press, volt, fuel and a clock. I decided to order them all in the Tangerine color, and I think they will look killer with the carbon fiber panel in the background. I bought a beat up bezel a few weeks ago that I will use as a template and put a new piece of metal in and custom cut my gauges in. I am going to delete things like the HVAC and turning signals, then wrap the whole bezel in a 3M REAL 3D carbon fiber vinyl. The wrap looks just like the real thing. Once I get the gauges I will post up a picture of what they really look like, but for now here is a poor representation of my vision.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/TangerineCarbonFiberPanel-1.jpg)
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Well, I found a great deal and couldn't pass it up. DynaTech Muscle Maxx 2nd gen swap headers.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/Dynamaxxheaders-1.jpg)
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I finally got done with what I had been putting off for so long... Welding in the floor pan extensions due to the new transmission being located towards the rear. I started out trying to weld in a piece of metal that my dad had laying around. That was a terrible decision. It didn't fit well at all, so I went to get some new 20 gauge steel panels which were the same size as my floor pans. That turned out much better than I even though. I was mostly putting this off because I didn't want to tear my interior apart. Which turned out to be not as bad as I thought originally.
First I had to remove the factory 4 speed hump as it was badly damaged.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_151017-1.jpg)
Once that was removed, I could get a clear view of what needed to be welded in.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_154549-1.jpg)
Then I welded in the first new panel and cut around for the shifter to come through.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_173121-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_175647-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_190716-1.jpg)
Then the other half of the panel to the rear fill all around the shifter. I painted the raw steel to prevent any rust and put my carpet back down.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_201118-1.jpg)
I am glad that I got that done and over with. I was putting it off mostly because I wasn't sure how I was going to tackle the project.
Next on my list is to fully shave the firewall. I have decided that I don't like the way that the block off plate that I made, and it will look best with it fully shaved. While I am in there I am going to smooth off any imperfections and fill any holes in that I don't need.
That is all for now. I look forward to testing how the Headers fit that I just bought. I am hoping that they will fit with the engine in it's current position. If not, I am going to have to redo somethings...
Ryan
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I got another few mins in the garage on Sunday. I finalized the placement of the center console and the shifter. I had to make a pretty serious bend in the shifter and to my surprise, got it right on the money the first time just eyeballing it! It fits perfectly and shifts great. Once I get the seats in I will be able to see how comfortable it is to shift.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_194205-1.jpg)
And here is the console fully bolted down with the shifter boot in place. Next step is to paint/wrap it to match my interior.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_191506-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_191452-1.jpg)
I am very happy with the fitment and can't wait to get it painted/wrapped to see how it blends with my interior. I am still playing around with the placement of my fuse/relay box. I may just put it in the center console so it is very accessable, but still is up in the air.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_191358-1.jpg)
Cheers,
Ryan
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It is time to shave my firewall. I wanted to add a something to my shaved firewall so that it wasn't just a large flat space. I took a 1/2" bead roll and put two parallel 16" bead rolls into the panel that I cut out of my 20 gauge steel. I took a cardboard template to check and see what it would look like. Here are some pictures. I am almost done with welding on this stage of my project, and look forward to that.
Here is what I started with.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_115012-1.jpg)
And the process of making my block off plate.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_104456-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_110400-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_145640-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_154659-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_163314-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_165021-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_165030-1.jpg)
Making sure that there was good penetration with the welds.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_165043-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_170136-1.jpg)
And here it is with some gloss paint on it. I still need to add body filler in and make everything smooth, but for now I just wanted to put some paint on it just to see what kind of work I need to do in order for it to get it straight.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_170144-1.jpg)
Thanks,
Ryan
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I finally got my Speedhut gauges!! I couldn't be happier. I love the way that they look. The gauges are a little lighter than they looked online, but still very happy and can't wait to get them all hooked up.
I also got a free t-shirt and decals.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_203041-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201126-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201106-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_203036-1.jpg)
Here is all of the installation wiring and diagrams.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201529-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201517-1.jpg)
Ryan
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My dad Emailed me this picture that he took with his phone recently. It is me under the car taking out the headers for the last time on this Pontiac engine. Made me a little sad, well maybe not. :lol:
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/photo-2.jpg)
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Ok, so I have to say I hate when people don't do what they say. I will explain. As you will see earlier in my build, I bought a set of swap headers for my project. It has been over 3 weeks since I bought them and they haven't been received and I cannot get ahold of the seller. So, I filed a complaint and will get my money back... Hopefully anyway, shouldn't be a problem but you never know. Anyway, so I have been bummed out because I was looking forward to the Dynatech swap headers and I have since sold any manifold that I could use, I am without an exhaust. Or so I thought. I posted up a wanted ad on another forum, and within minutes I had someone respond to me. Speedway motors hasn't had the Dynatech headers since they went from 399.99 to 600.00 bucks, but they must have had a set that was returned because there was a pair in "Garage Sale" Section. They were having a 7.99 flat rate on shipping, so I got an almost brand new set of 600.00 headers a grand total of $377 shipped to my door.
I am very pleased with Speedway already. I placed my order at 12:58 pm and the order was shipped out UPS at 2:04 pm with a tracking number!! Talk about fast service!! They should be here around 12/26, so it will be a late Christmas present to myself! Here is the picture that they provided.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/AUP1372_L_17f62eba_zps8e1fc2a2-1.jpg)
They look really nice!!
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Ok, so I have to say I hate when people don't do what they say. I will explain. As you will see earlier in my build, I bought a set of swap headers for my project. It has been over 3 weeks since I bought them and they haven't been received and I cannot get ahold of the seller. So, I filed a complaint and will get my money back... Hopefully anyway, shouldn't be a problem but you never know. Anyway, so I have been bummed out because I was looking forward to the Dynatech swap headers and I have since sold any manifold that I could use, I am without an exhaust. Or so I thought. I posted up a wanted ad on another forum, and within minutes I had someone respond to me. Speedway motors hasn't had the Dynatech headers since they went from 399.99 to 600.00 bucks, but they must have had a set that was returned because there was a pair in "Garage Sale" Section. They were having a 7.99 flat rate on shipping, so I got an almost brand new set of 600.00 headers a grand total of $377 shipped to my door.
I am very pleased with Speedway already. I placed my order at 12:58 pm and the order was shipped out UPS at 2:04 pm with a tracking number!! Talk about fast service!! They should be here around 12/26, so it will be a late Christmas present to myself! Here is the picture that they provided.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/AUP1372_L_17f62eba_zps8e1fc2a2-1.jpg)
They look really nice!!
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Just messing around last night and grabbed my stock bezel out of the car and threw the gauges into it. It actually doesn't look half bad, but not as good as it will look with the Carbon fiber look. I also wired them up breifly just to see what they look like, but didn't get a good picture of them.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121220_194120-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121220_194127-1.jpg)
Not too shabby.
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Got a chance to get into the garage today. I was focusing on getting the firewall done so that I can get my engine in for a final fitment. I got all of the spot welds ground down and some filler put on to fill the imperfections. Not a whole lot to show for it, but was a lot of work. I still need to do a lot more finish sanding and then I can paint it. I am also going to finish the top of the cowl and fill in any dents and smooth everything out. I need to get my air compressor fixed so I can borrow some power sanding tools.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_111401-1.jpg)
I feel like I am going backwards on this project sometimes...
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_140752-1.jpg)
I needed to get the stock ducting out from behind the dash, so I could better fit my components such as the LS1's computer. So, out goes the dash. Again. While it was out I took the liberty of modifying it for my other new 'mini' project... Delay wipers. Here is the motor I will be using.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121121_092906-1.jpg)
One think that I never liked about the stock firewall was that huge wiper motor. So, I decided to do something about it. First I needed to decide how to I was going to control the wipers. I took the switch out of the stock 1999 Camaro column, and I am pretty sure that it is a common switch that is in many different models.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121222_163652-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121222_163658-1.jpg)
Once it was out I cut off the aluminum bracket that was attached as I will no longer use it.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115746-1.jpg)
Now, I needed to figure out how I was going to attach it near the stock position for the wiper switch. Not sure how it came to me, but this fits in there almost like it was made for it. Using the tab on the one end as a main anchor point, drill a small hole into the duct on the side near the stock location for the switch.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_141847-1.jpg)
Once the hole is drilled, I also had to cut down the lower screw hole, and notch the one side of the opening for the switch to mount in there.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115735-1.jpg)
Once you have those small modifications done to your dash, the switch will fit in there very nicely.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115758-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115815-1.jpg)
This won't be my final mounting, but for temporary I used a zip tie, which actually works quite nicely.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_070430-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_070435-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115651-1.jpg)
Since I had a few extra wiper switches, I gutted one and used the steel shell as a template for a bracket that I will make in the future. I will also make a decal for the actual functions of the car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_070435-1.jpg)
I used the stock turning signal switch from the 99 Camaro and cut off the end to use as my new switch. I will attach the stock knob onto the switch when everything is all done.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115642-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142558-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142821-1.jpg)
Here is the switch at rest.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142920-1.jpg)
And here is the switch at high speed function. As you can see the knob spins and will function just the same as the stock switch on the 99 Z28. It is very similar to the switch that DSE has for their delay wiper upgrade.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142937-1.jpg)
Now, this isn't the final product. But as a first test fit with the bezel on it clearly needs to be raised up in order to look normal in the off position. But here it is with the bezel in and in the stock position.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_143123-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_143128-1.jpg)
The best part of this is that even if you wanted to do this swap and return your car to stock in the future you would be able to. Nothing that was modified will be able to be seen while the car is fully assembled. Everything that I have done on my car has been done with this thinking. Although my firewall was shaved, if the spot welds were drilled out the whole panel would come off and someone could put the stock heater box back on.
All for this weekend. Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas.
Ryan
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Ok, I got a little more done yesterday. It isn't a very time consuming modification, but is a very visual modifcation. Plus I was able to do this work inside where it is nice and warm. I wanted to see what the stock bezel would look like with the vinyl wrap I got from 3M and see how it would cover. I did a test fit and it looked pretty good and decided that it looked good enough not to justify custom making my own bezel. Maybe at a later date I will get a real piece of carbon fiber and make a custom piece like the write up in one of the threads on this site. Anyway here are some pictures of my test panel to see what the turning signals would look like covered up with just the wrap.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_135904-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_135917-1.jpg)
I thought that it looked good enough to justify wrapping my bezel. So here we go.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_152917-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_153947-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_163810-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_163818-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_164916-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_165647-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_170722-1.jpg)
I have been waiting for a long time to see what those gauges would look like against the carbon fiber and it was certainly worth the wait. I think that it looks great and I can't wait to see what it will look like with the dash back in the car. I just need to finish doing the wiring for the gauges while the dash is out, and then figure out centering my new wiper switch in the bezel and I think I will be good to put the dash pad back into the car and wrap my interior up.
I should be getting my headers today, but really depends on the weather. We got around a foot of snow last night so UPS will be a little behind today.
Cheers,
Ryan
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Small update. I finally got my set of Dynatech headers. I ended up getting them from Speedway Motors, and they were absolutely great to work with. I am certainly going to work with this company again. The Headers were Garage Sale items, and they were at a nice discount and they were having a sale on their shipping for 7.99 flat rate shipping, so I got the headers for $377 shipped to my front door. And as garage sale items they said that the items may be dinged up or scratched, but they were in brand new condition. I am very happy with them. Here are some pictures.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_162616-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_162625-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_162220-1.jpg)
And here they are installed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222128-1.jpg)
The headers hang a little lower than I would have liked, but time will tell on how they actually ride. I think with 300 pounds off the front end of the car, the springs will react differently so I may be surprised. Many people have these headers and don't have any issues with the headers scraping.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222128-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222527-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222538-1.jpg)
This is the great quality fitment.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222551-1.jpg)
And from the front, seeing those massive 1 7/8 primary tube headers.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222609-1.jpg)
Overall I am very happy with the fitment and quality of these headers. Would recommend them to anyone.
Thanks,
Ryan
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I got a little bit further on getting my firewall done. I have to admit, I am getting sick of body work. It isn't something that I do very often so I am quite slow at it, but I am slowly progressing. It is tough to get everything straight and looking good. I think, I am about 80% done with the firewall. I just need to do some more finish sanding, and it will be ready for final coats of paint. Anyway, here are a few pictures.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_152210-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_173018-1.jpg)
And now for the interesting part. After quite a bit of research and going back and forth with my A/C options, I have decided to utilize the factory A/C compressor as it sits down low and won't be a eye sore in the engine compartment. So, in order for me to use the stock A/C compressor I needed to notch the frame. I will post up more on what I will have to do in order to use the factory A/C compressor. In a nutshell, the factory compressor is a variable load, and I need to convert it over to fixed in order to work properly with Vintage Air.
Please excuse the compressor and bracket being filthy. I didn't have time to
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130111_204428-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130111_204436-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_152215-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_173023-1.jpg)
It ended up being much easier than I thought and I am so thankful that I bought adjustable engine mounts. I have changed the motors position at least a dozen times for different things. Now the motor is in its final position. Once I finish the firewall the motor will be put in for good, and not to come out for a long time. (Hopefully)
Here is a perspective picture of how quickly my garage filled up once I started stripping out two cars.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_174908-1.jpg)
That is all for now.
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Ok, so I am sick of not making progress on my car due to lack of motivation. I have said it before, but I don't like doing body work. I am going to get it done this Friday no matter how long it takes me. *:-D
Here is what I will start with tomorrow, and some materials to get the job done.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_172027-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_172017-1.jpg)
I bought some more parts for my car, so here is a sneak preview of what's to come. I am going to redo, my bezel, and I am going to use a woodgrain so I can weld and finish the underside to reapply some of the carbon fiber wrap again.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171947-1.jpg)
Lokar throttle cable.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171908-1.jpg)
Stainless Steel Dynatech Musclemaxx reducers
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171843-1.jpg)
And a new Spectra gas tank in order to modify for my 4th gen fuel assembly. More on that to come.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171813-1.jpg)
By the end of tomorrow I will have my firewall done and the engine in for final placement.
More to come, Ryan.
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Ok, well after a long night and some time today, I was finally able to get that firewall done. :-x After a difficult battle getting my garage from 30* to around 50 in order to paint, I was finally able to get some matte black paint on my firewall. Since it was in the single digits outside it was such an uphill battle. I had to have my kerosene heater running as well as my wood stove roaring at full boar. I was finally able to get to 55 and able to spray some paint.
It is a huge weight lifted off of my shoulders having this job done. It isn't perfect, but it is good enough for me. Overall I am happy with the way that it turned out. I still need to make a bracket for my new wiper motor to mount to the firewall, but there isn't any hurry for that. It doesn't look like a big update, but there are many hours into getting the firewall straight and filling in little imperfections.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_013641-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_120354-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_164557-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165818-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165825-1.jpg)
Now that I am done painting the firewall, I need to clean everything up from all the sanding dust!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165834-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165844-1.jpg)
When I get done with my sub-frame clean up I will bolt in the engine and transmission for good. Can't wait. One more step closer to hearing the car come to life again.
All for now.
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Seems like most of my updates have been parts updates, but I plan to get some time in the garage this Friday and Saturday so I am hoping to make some real progress. These are hopefully the last two large components for my LS1 swap! I am sick of spending money.
Here is the Vetteworks Kit that will allow me to use my 1999 LS1 Fuel Pump Assembly. It was a nice touch that they laser engraved the panel on the top. Also came with a full set of color installation instructions.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193713-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193707-1.jpg)
And the other is a Universal Painless wiring harness that I got from Mrbandit. Great guy to deal with. It is an 18 Circuit harness with provisions for power windows, locks and other accessories. He gave me a great deal on it and my next project will be fully wiring my whole car. I am actually excited to do because I like the challenge of wiring and getting everything to work properly.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193653-1.jpg)
And a big box of wires for the rest of the wiring.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193658-1.jpg)
Cheers,
Ryan
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The motor is finally in!!! I am excited to have the motor in for good as it is one huge step towards getting my car back together. To me this is a big deal because now, I can do many of the little projects as I get time. Once the motor was in finally for about the 20th time, I started on some of my other larger tasks. Here are some pictures.
Before I could put in my motor I wanted to clean up the sub-frame and freshen up the paint. I painted some of the steering linkages to break up all of the black. Here is what I started with and here is what I ended up with.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165834-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234037_zpsa206f514-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234046_zps430d4c77-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234051_zps9df233d9-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234059_zpsae952449-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_003830_zps95483d16-1.jpg)
Now that the sub-frame is all painted up it is ready for the motor. *:grin:
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_110055_zps2de33233-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_110107_zps1abb3d1c-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_120055_zpsb41811ac-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_125301_zps9331bf12-1.jpg)
Here is the wiring mess that I have to look forward to! And as a side, I am still up in the air about what center console to use. I really like the way that the 99 console looks, but where the shifter comes out, may not be comfortable. When I had the full interior in with the transmission in its current spot, with the straight shifter shown with the stock tan console, the shifter was very comfortable. I feel that it may be a reach for the 99 console. For now, I am going to focus on the wiring.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234111_zps8aae0c01-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_210031_zps0bfc4669-1.jpg)
I put in the clutch hydraulics bracket on and got my clutch test fit. It is amazing how easy things can be with the right parts. The bracket is from DSE and it is made specifically for the LSx swap which allows you to bolt on the stock slave cylinder and puts it at the correct angel. All I had to do to modify the firewall slightly and drill another hole in the clutch petal. The bracket sandwiches between the firewall and the brake booster.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_110107_zps1abb3d1c-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_111148_zps95ca40af-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_111157_zpsad993317-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_120045_zps39ee4ade-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_210037_zps01c70c7c-1.jpg)
I drilled my one hole in the firewall for my engine wiring. I laid out the wiring where it will roughly go, and will eventually loom up the harness and get everything looking clean.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_125301_zps9331bf12-1.jpg)
I feel like accomplished quite a bit this weekend and I feel great because I am not starting to bolt things back onto the car rather than tearing them off or modifying. I should have the car fired up within the next month. I hope to have it running by the end of the month.
Thanks for looking.
Ryan
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No really huge progress, but I couldn't sleep last night so I went in the garage for a few hours to clean up and package up some parts I sold. After I finished cleaning up, I looked over at my wiring mess and thought to myself, "What have I done now..."
I sat down and started looking at the wiring and started placing bundles of wires where they would go. Once you break the wiring down into sections it really isn't as intimidating as it looks. Each wire is labled "radio section" or "lighting section" so it is very difficult to mess up. The biggest task is going to be figuring out the wiring diagrams for my stock car, because the wiring is a universal harness, everything is un-terminated and you have to re-use the stock connectors. Which isn't a big deal for me. I like the idea of upgrading to the blade fuses with newer technology. Over the next few weeks I will be blending the Painless harness into my car, and integrating with the factory LS1 engine harness. As well as adding my Speedhut wiring, as some gauges have their own sensors. (oil pressure, coolant temp)
Here is the mess a little more organized and the engine a little more complete.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130211_223426_zpsa3961212-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130211_223412_zps8ba22923-1.jpg)
I will get some better pictures, and some better updates soon. My wife will have to start working on Saturdays starting Feb. 23rd so I will have a lot of Saturday's to get the car back together.
All for now.
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It is difficult to capture what I have done through pictures as I have been doing a lot of wiring. I did find a final place for my ECU, and I am really happy how well it is hidden. I mounted it in the vacant pocket where there used to be a vacuum operated flap for the A/C. I used a modified ecu bracket from the 99. I removed the insulation that was glued into the cup and slightly trimmed the back of the cup. Here are some pictures.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_162948_zps026dcd71-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_165242_zps47b2d43b-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_165400_zpsd6baf222-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_165405_zps4bd12219-1.jpg)
That is all for now. I am hoping to start up the car within the next month... We will see if that happens.
Cheers,
Ryan
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Again, not much for visual progress for an update, but I got most of my custom wiring done. It was difficult figuring out all of the wiring schematics and finding a way to splice them all together, but in the end it turned out great. I was able to get all of the relays and fuses hooked up for my LS1 harness and was able to splice it all together and blend well. It helped once I found a good easy to read relay diagram, which I can share if anyone needs.
I was able to mount the relay box in the glove box for easy access, while not taking up too much room. I have also been trying to think ahead at any future modifications that I may want and wiring them in now. I brought in a constant main feed into the cabin for any future electronics. I wired in the trunk release and ran that to the trunk so I can finally hook up the auto release button. Here are the few pictures that I took.
A lot of my time was dedicated to making the mess of wires manageable and neat. I decided to use zip ties rather than electrical tape because it is much easier to cut a zip tie and replace rather than trying to tape and retape everything.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_234857_zps7084d063-1.jpg)
Trying to make all the wiring neat and easy to read.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_163345_zps255182ee-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_144745_zps3bb4f8a5-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_144802_zpse2842d42-1.jpg)
I also started to wire up the tail lights and trunk release. There was a lot of custom wiring and although, I don't have much to "show" for it, there was a lot of progress made. In reality, the fuse block I wired up only accounts for about 20% of the wiring, but due to its complexity takes up majority of the time. I am about 70% done with my wiring now, since most everything will be very easy to splice and solder together.
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I got some more wiring done yesterday. It isn't completely done, but is getting close. I got all the wiring done for the trunk, which has provisions for a third brake light, power antenna(or amplifier remote), and one other thing I can't remember. lol I finished my wiring for all my Speedhut gauges and wired in connectors for ease of removal. I soldered all the joints and shrink wrapped all connections for longevity. I don't want to have to redo everything in the future.
Here is the wiring in the trunk with the connection.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205300_zps070df93d-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205248_zps38d52951-1.jpg)
I didn't realize that I was going to have to take out almost all of my interior just to get the wiring routed to the trunk...
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205328_zps51e1bb05-1.jpg)
I started with this mess and had to sort, solder, and heat wrap every connection. Doesn't sound like a lot of work, but very tedious to do, although I am having a lot of fun.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_190100_zps964458d7-1.jpg)
This is the type of connection that I used for the gauges.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_190125_zpsdbf0c75f-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_202128_zps9e59b0ec-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_202119_zpsbf24db3c-1.jpg)
Here are my gauges installed and one with them lit up at night. I am not sure if Speedhut made the speedomoter brighter than the rest because that is the most important gauge, or if it was a mistake. I need to call them to verify, but all other gauges are the same brightness. The gauges also have a rheostat controller to control the dimmer. *
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_182058_zps8204dc5f-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130302_110212_zps7d54173a-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_182110_zps0a9b6a43-1.jpg)
All for now,
Ryan
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Small update from last night. My wife had to work late, and for a change I didn't so I got a few hours of garage time. I decided to get the dome lights wired up, so I could put the interior panels and rear seats back together. It wasn't too bad other than trying to fish the dome lights through the headliner without taking it off. I managed to get a wire through the dome light hole, just need to solder the connections to the dome light and install.
Went from this
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205328_zps51e1bb05-1.jpg)
Back to this
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202034_zps082c3c47-1.jpg)
Here are the dome light wires ready to be soldered.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202045_zps720a3ca3-1.jpg)
I also for got to show this over the weekend. I bought a piece of 1/4" sheet aluminum to make a bracket to hold my new wiper motor that I will be converting to. I still need to wire up the switch and make the bracket, but I will be swapping on my 99 Camaro wiper motor.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202224_zpsf06f675a-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202231_zps2d385dbe-1.jpg)
All for now. I am hoping to get some time out in the garage this Friday too. I gotta get this thing running soon, the warm weather is on the way!!
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Sorry, I forgot to update this from last weekend. I was doing a lot of trial and testing of wires and sensors, although I did take a lot of pictures. The one large thing that I did complete was that I got my fuel tank modified to accept the LS1 Fbody fuel pump assembly. The full write-up can be seen in the LSx swap section of the site here > http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=56613.0 (http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=56613.0)
Here are some pictures of the before and after.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171813-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130309_171540_zps0b39e4b0-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130309_172614_zpsc0564aa6-1.jpg)
It is important to think of how the fuel pump assembly needs to be clocked in order to get the fuel level sender to read properly, I will get to that in a min. With my Speedhut gauge, I needed to flip the fuel float from one side to the other so it will read correctly. The stock sender reads 40-240 ohms, and my gauge reads 240-33 ohms. So, it would be opposite if I left it stock. But I just took out the float assembly and flipped it to the other side by bending it 180* and it reads properly.
The arm simply unclips from the sensor, and just needs to be bent. I took some before pictures of the arm at full and empty positions so I could get it the same.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_171149_zps48e05864-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_171201_zps79403db9-1.jpg)
And after it was modified, how it looks. I hooked up my gauge to the sensor and it reads properly full/empty/middle/etc.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192536_zps9b8ef111-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_171832_zpsddbe7fdd-1.jpg)
Now, to show the importance of having the fuel lines clocked properly. It is hard to tell from the picture, but with the fuel assembly clocked pointing directly towards the fuel neck, the sender will have plenty of room for a full range of motion. There may have been other ways to attempt this, but I decided to go with this direction.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192532_zpsddec2f26-1.jpg)
I haven't fully completed the final assembly of the fuel pump assembly, but will be doing so in the near future. It is also important to note that the kit also requires a tank seal.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192549_zpsf7c697fa-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192557_zps01b1b0eb-1.jpg)
Onto my other project. I went back and forth between fuel lines with three different options. Stainless hardline vs. NiCopp hardlines vs. Nylon lines. After much research I concluded the following. Of the three I found that it was a tie between Stainless, NiCopp(European Nickle Copper Iron mix), and Nylon lines for longevity. When it came to Function NiCopp lines and Nylon won over stainless due to the difficulty of getting the stainless to seal properly as well as difficulty of bending. And when it came to the price, Nylon won as it only costs about 40 bucks for fittings and lines. As opposed to Stainless and NiCopp which cost around 200 all in. And with Nylon you can make your own tool to press in the fittings. So, I went with Nylon lines and will report back on how they work. I have a buddy that used Nylon on his LS1 swap and he hasn't had any troubles with it.
I bought a roll of 25 Ft. of 3/8 Nylon tubing from Dorman, 2 Straight quick connect fittings, and 10 pack of 3/8 All-Star insulated clamps. Cost: 40 bucks on Amazon.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130309_075031_zps7284dcc9-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113329_zps1b85af1c-1.jpg)
Now, rather than spending $60 plus on the actual installation kit, I found that you can actually do the same thing with a flaring tool kit, calking gun, large nut, and some patience. I didn't get any pictures, but there are many write-ups to this online to choose from.
Here is the tubing before and after. Important to note, that you need to cut the line to get the end very straight. I used a fresh razor blade. Then press on the fitting with a little dab of oil.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113256_zps76d21940-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113205_zps2b9fb49a-1.jpg)
Here is what it looks like on the engine. Very clean stock look. I like it a lot.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113746_zpsfb8dc9ef-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113740_zpsa274ec72-1.jpg)
I need to figure out my next step. I need a fitting that will go from this fitting pictured below, to the quick connect fitting Pictured above.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_163737_zpsc5b12306-1.jpg)
I am not sure if I can just use a NPT fitting with some thread tape and that will seal enough for 60+psi or not. Professional Products makes a NPT to quick connect adapter that will work perfectly, just need to do more research.
Thanks,
Ryan
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Very small update. I did a lot of work in the garage, but it is all just wiring. I must admit, I am a little burnt out on wiring, but it is definitely nearing the end. All I have left is to wire up the neutral safety switch, Back up lights, add in a few grounds, fuel pump and fuel level wire and give some power to the remote trunk switch and we are good to go inside the car. The other obstacle is going to be my delay wiper wiring, which shouldn't be too bad. I have all the wiring diagrams and have tested everything and it works great. I look forward to getting all the wiring done, then it is on to plumbing. :lol:
Here is the one picture I took yesterday. This is my delay wiper motor and switch wired up crudely to test everything for functionality. Click the picture for the video of the functions.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/th_20130317_141136_zps32aaf4ec-1.jpg) (http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ryeguy2006a/20130317_141136_zps32aaf4ec.mp4)
Oh, and I cranked the car for one second to see if the starter was wired up correctly. Oh, it was such a tease as I am getting very close to firing it off. Very soon.
Ryan
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I thought this may be worth a quick update. I have been keeping my eyes out for a rear end for my car with 3.73 gears for a while since finding a rear with the gears in it is much cheaper than buying the gears and doing it yourself. So, I was checking craigslist and found an ad "10 bolt Chevy rear", so I checked it out just out of curiosity. Turns out that the rear is out of a 79 Camaro, and had 3.73 Richmond gears, an Auburn Posi Diff. and the best part is it didn't have any miles on it! The guy that I bought it from bought the 79 to part out. The 79 was someone's project that was never finished. Engine, trans, and rear were all new and the car was just never finished. His loss, my gain. Oh, best part. I got the rear for some old traction bars and $225 bucks!! :smoke:
Just to be safe, I am having the guy I bought it from contact the original owner to see who installed the rear diff and gears. If he did it himself, I will pay someone to set the gears correctly, but if a reputable shop installed them I will just take my chances. I also want so pull the axles and check the bearings and etc. for wear.
I picked up the rear in my parts hauler Mustang GT... :cheers: I guess that's what happens when you find a good deal, you have to improvise.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_175714_zpsc8aa40b7-1.jpg)
EDIT: more pictures.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_215524_zps232bba59-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_215533_zps1731e131-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_220153_zpsd500c326-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_220219_zps8fbec2b2-1.jpg)
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It has been a few weeks since I made any really good update, and unfortunately still no big update. I am inching closer and closer to getting the car to fire up, but have hit many snags along the way. My first big obstacle was finding a fitting that would allow me to use the stock fuel lines from the 99 Z28 and allow me to run the nylon fuel lines from the block to the fuel rail. So, after many parts that didn't work, I decided that having the part made would solve many of my problems. I needed an o-ring based fitting on one end and a GM/Chrysler Quick Connect on the other. To my knowledge, no one makes such a fitting. I took it to a local shop in Binghamton, NY and they made it for me for 10 bucks. That allowed me to connect the the nylon lines to the Tee fitting on the stock lines. Solved that issue.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130328_200253_zpsb38a92b0-1.jpg)
Next, issue had to deal with my fuel tank, not so much the lines. I was still going back and forth between how I wanted to solve my fuel level sender issue. Originally I planned on using the stock 4th gen sender, but due to some functionality issues I changed my mind. Then I thought about my original sender. It worked fine, but I had heard that it may contact the fuel pump assembly. So, I decided to check on my own, and to my surprise it had about an inch of clearance! I cut off the pick-up off the bottom, removed the vent tube, welded the hole for the vent tube, and welded the pickup tube. I needed to keep the pick-up tube in order to keep the sender in the stock location. It also solved my issue of what to do with the sender hole on the tank.
Here are some pictures of the modified sender and the clearance with the Vetteworks kit.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181437_zpse932caab-1.jpg)
Now, you see it. (Picture is taken at an angle)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181412_zpsb65c1004-1.jpg)
Now you don't. (Picture was taken straight up and down.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181418_zpsc7fb1ffe-1.jpg)
Here is the tank all together waiting to go back into the car for a test fit. I still need to somehow lower the tank roughly 1" to clear the fuel pump assembly out of the top. Looking back I should have just recessed the top of the tank slightly.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181526_zps3d8c9e18-1.jpg)
What I didn't take a picture of was how I have the tank setup currently. I wired the pump up and plumbed the car to check for leaks with the tank sitting next to the car on the ground. I wanted to check for leaks without having to be under the car. It worked very well, just unusual I guess. Good news was there were no leaks in the fuel system. That means I can move forward with getting the tank in place and finalize the fuel lines. I need to heat and bend the nylon lines in order to fit around components and look good.
When I went to start it this weekend, to my disappointment I have a wiring issue with the car. I need to trace back the wiring that I did and find out what I did wrong. Luckily, I was able to narrow it down to my relay box that I made for the car. I had a lot of late night wiring, so I will blame it on that. :cool: I am getting home early tomorrow night and hope to possibly solve the issue. On a good note, I was able to use HP Tuners to unlock my ECU and delete my VATS, rear O2 sensors and disable my AIR. Then I uploaded that tune to my ECU. Really cool program and I really look forward to using it to the full potential.
Hoping to have the car started very soon.
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It finally runs!! I had some issues with the tune, as I needed to delete some of the stock systems on the car. Such as the VATS, EGR, A.I.R. Pump, and rear O2 sensors. I thought I had a large wiring issue, but it ended up being a poor ground to the engine. After I flashed the new tune on the car and got the ground figured out the car started up and idled. I was alone, so I couldn't get a video, but once the radiator is hooked up and I can let it idle for more than a few seconds I will get a video posted up.
Here is a picture of how the car was set up to test the fuel lines and fuel pump. It is a very temporary setup, but works to get the car running and allowed me to check for leaks without being on my back under the car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130405_194255_zps41c5d4bc-1.jpg)
Also, here is the the fitting that I got to adapt the temp sensor to the block. Some people tap the block, but I didn't want to do anything irreversible.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130405_194309_zps5fd74e72-1.jpg)
I didn't work on the car very long, but I feel like I got a huge step forward. I am really happy to have the car running!! I hope to get a little work done tomorrow as well. I hope to get the tank in the car tomorrow and the fuel lines fully routed. Time will tell.
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I got a little more done on Saturday, so I thought I would post it up. I finally was able to get that gas tank installed. After fighting with it on my back for an hour trying to make the spacers work, I had enough. I went with my original plan and cut an access panel in the trunk. Since I have already pissed off the purists with the LS1, how much more angry can they get, right? Anyway, it worked great and I will be able to change fuel pumps very easily in the future.
Please excuse the mess in the trunk. I am still figuring out wiring for my fuel pump and fuel sender and the trunk has become a nice hiding spot for parts waiting to go back on the car.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181046_zps94fd65df-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181041_zpsec9490e2-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181019_zps497a9c4e-1.jpg)
After I got the tank fitted in it's final position I got the fuel lines ran. If you guys don't remember I will refresh your memories. I went with Nylon fuel lines due to the cost and their compatibility with today's fuels. Now, I want to first say that it is very easy and difficult to work with. I will explain. The fittings require the use of the GM/Chrysler Quick Disconnect lines that I have shown before. They are supposed to be pressed into the lines by using a repair tool (or the calk gun method) or by dipping the line in boiling water and forcing it in. I used the calk gun method and it was easy to work with. The fittings very easily were pressed into the line by using a flairing tool to hold the line and a dab of oil to help the fitting slide in a little easier. The hard part of working with the lines is they can very easily kink. I found the best method for working with it was working slowly and applying a little heat from a heat gun to carefully work the lines. I routed the lines in the factory location, with the acception of the fuel filter which I put where the tranverse muffler used to live.
I didn't want to get under the car as I was under their enough on Saturday. Maybe if I get ambitious someday I will take some photos, but you get the idea. Here are some pictures.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181149_zpsc590178d-1.jpg)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181118_zpsa323f155-1.jpg)
Overall, I was very pleased with the nylon and would do it all over again if I had to. Once everything was installed, I tested the system again with no leaks. Overall very successful day. My main issue today is figuring out my tune. I need to go through and delete all the systems that I took off of the stock motor such as VATS, A.I.R., CAGS, EVAP, and rear O2 sensors. Once that is finalized, I am going to reflash that tune to my ecu and see how she runs.
I also picked this up the other day. It is a mirror with a compass and outside temperature built into it.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Mirrorandsensors_zps2b9a1c5f-1.jpg)
All for now, Cheers.
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I made a lot more progress this weekend towards getting the car back on the road. And what everyone has been asking for, finally a video of the car running to prove that I really did get it running. I will start with the things that lead up to me getting it running for more than just 30 seconds.
In preparation for the rear disk brakes I will be running and the front brake upgrade I have currently. I needed to upgrade my wheel studs. Since it is going to cost the same, I decided to upgrade to the 1/2 ARP studs with open face Gorilla lugs. With these I will be able to get full lug nut thread engagement, and will more than likely trim the extra length off of the lugs for a cleaner look. I will need to pull my hubs and axles off and drill out my holes in a drill press and then have the new studs pressed into place. Also, what isn't shown is the wheel spacers that I bought for the front. With new brake pads in the front, the caliper would be pressed out too far and contact the spokes of my wheel. The spacers are slightly more than 1/4" so it shouldn't affect the fitment of my front wheels too drastically.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130412_212631_zpsd41f4520-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130412_212631_zpsd41f4520.jpg.html)
After much research and going back and forth, I decided that the most effective way to deal with the steam ports on the LS1 was to route the coolant through to the water pump. I had to drill and tap my water pump for 1/8" NPT and will put in a 90* barbed fitting and re-routed the steam coolant passages to the water pump. On the stock coolant system in the Camaro, the coolant was routed throught the throttle body, then to the radiator. So, by not having 200* coolant flowing through my throttle body, I should pick up ~5 HP and it makes for a cleaner look. And for those that may ask, there is no interference with the throttlebody or cable.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130412_220227_zps10edf8a4-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130412_220227_zps10edf8a4.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130412_220940_zpscfd1f796-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130412_220940_zpscfd1f796.jpg.html)
Due to the way that the LS1 motor is setup, I had to relocate my battery to the passenger's side. Great thing about the way that GM made our cars, is that the core support is symetrical, so it just bolted in. Always cool when stuff like that works out! :cool:
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130413_021624_zps2fe62fce-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130413_021624_zps2fe62fce.jpg.html)
One other obstacle that I had gone back and forth with was what to do about my power steering pump and lines. The LS1 has metric fittings on the lines, and the stock 1976 steering box I had was metric, and also used different fittings. So, I either took the lines and had them reflared, or I could use a metric box. So, after looking around on the good old internet, I found out that there are several boxes out there in Junkyards that are bolt in and metric. But what gets even better, is that some of the boxes not only bolt into the car and have the correct fittings for the lines, but have a quick ratio steering! I have a buddy who had the exact box I needed. So, after a little elbow grease and paint, I took my old box off and bolted this new box on. Almost too easy.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130413_021709_zpsdc789f16-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130413_021709_zpsdc789f16.jpg.html)
The last sensor that I needed to hook up was my oil pressure sensor. Now, with the Speedhut gauges, they require their own sensor for the gauge to fully function, so I had to find a port for the sensor. I don't like the look of the redundant sensors, but unfortunately I don't have a choice on this one. A little research yielded me some nice results. The block off plate above the oil filter on the LS1's can be tapped to put a sensor, and great thing is it is down low and completely hidden from sight. The sensor was too close to the exhaust so I needed to get it in a different direction. I bought a 90* fitting from Lowes (I plan to buy a 45* in, but that was all they had) and installed it so it was closer to the engine and away from the headers.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130414_124952_zpscd033557-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130414_124952_zpscd033557.jpg.html)
I forgot to get a picture before I put the radiator on again, but the serp belt and all accessories are installed.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130413_021727_zpsb81575a7-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130413_021727_zpsb81575a7.jpg.html)
Ok, so what everyone has been waiting for. Now please keep in mind that I am having some issues with my tune and that is the reason that it isn't idling down properly. I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere as it is running at 1200 rpms in the video. I will get my tune figured out and get a good video of the car at idle. I also wanted to mention that I have had many things off of the engine so while I was making this video I was checking everything for leaks etc. I am happy to say that the only leak I have is a slight weap from the thermostat housing.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/th_20130414_143623_zps5f44a6bf-1.jpg) (http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ryeguy2006a/20130414_143623_zps5f44a6bf.mp4)
All for now.
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It has been a fast moving few days for me. It started when I got a phone call on Thursday morning about my Daily Driver Mustang GT I was selling. The guy wanted to take a look at my car so we set up a time to meet that night. To my surprise, he brought a pocket full of cash, and a dealer plate. Looked my car all over and bought it on the spot. Now, at this point I was happy I sold the car, but worried because I don't have anything to drive. I wanted to take my time when buying my next car, so what to do. I have an almost complete 76 Trans Am that is begging to get driven. So the rush begins.(Although I am cutting any corners)
So, in order to get the car ready, I have been very focused and prioritizing my time as it is limited. Also a few late nights, :lol:. Now, let me get to the pictures. I was confident that everything was finished on the passenger's side. Time to mount the fender and inner fender. It is starting to look like a car again.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130517_012902_zpsf0cf8637-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130517_012902_zpsf0cf8637.jpg.html)
After a few attempts, I finally got my driveshaft back from the local shop. I took it to them with the measurements they asked for, and it was an inch too long. So, back to the shop and they took another 1" off of it and now it fits perfectly. It also too me a long time to find some place that carried a 1310 to GM 3R U-joint, but finally tracked one down. I got this driveshaft down in Carlisle for $35, Cut and balance $77, new U-joint $12. Grand total for an Aluminum driveshaft that will handle 600-700 HP, $124 bucks. NICE :cool:
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130516_230337_zps63388b0e-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130516_230337_zps63388b0e.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130516_230347_zpsaaac0df5-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130516_230347_zpsaaac0df5.jpg.html)
I started working on the brakes. They were the biggest thing I was putting off. I didn't grab any pictures, but I had to "gut" my stock proporting valve, which turned it into a distribution block. Essentially it is just removing the valving and springs inside that restrict the rear brakes at a hard stop. Not too difficult to do, just time consuming. Once that was done, I installed the inline adjustable proportioning valve right below where the rear hose connects to the hard line. Real easy and very accessable. Then ran the lines and installed the rear backing plates and brackets. Once, they were intalled I test fit the passenger's side shock and drilled a hole to relocate it to clear the caliper. It was about 1 1/2" rearward that I relocated. Very easy and thanks to Eroc022, I didn't need to do the swap with two left sides. Now both calipers face the front. I like when things are symetrical. Once, the shock was relocated, I bolted everything down and tested the wheel. No clearance issues at all. Repeat on the other side, and bleed the brakes. DONE.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_190825_zps9dc5bb81-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_190825_zps9dc5bb81.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211849_zps0a0c53c7-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211849_zps0a0c53c7.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_212142_zps3dd85f9f-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_212142_zps3dd85f9f.jpg.html)
For those that may ask about E-brake cables, I haven't bought or installed those yet. I will be using the universal Lokar cables when the time comes. For now, its leaving it in gear. That will change shortly.
Once, the brakes were done, it was time to put the other fender on and the front nose. Because I was thinking ahead, I saved the shims and adjustments for all the body panels. I recommend this to anyone because everything fell into place. This is after about 15 mins of adjusting.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_011435_zps13a1ab52-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_011435_zps13a1ab52.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_011446_zpsbdf0c935-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_011446_zpsbdf0c935.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_011455_zpsd9577a20-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_011455_zpsd9577a20.jpg.html)
I changed pace, and decided to work on my wiper motor upgrade. Here is what I came up with so far. I made this bracket out of 1/4" aluminum plate, and drilled holes for the motor to mount to, and then I will drill holes in the plate and the firewall to attach the plate to the firewall. pretty simple, and at this point it is crude, but I will smooth off the edges and finish the wiring on it. All in good time.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_190907_zpsacf07523-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_190907_zpsacf07523.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_190853_zpsc2ce1824-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_190853_zpsc2ce1824.jpg.html)
After that, my father-in-law stopped by and we installed the hood and nose piece. Even with all the same shims in place the hood still too us an hour to fit properly. :? Anyway, its done now and I can worry about other things.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211801_zps622b3782-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211801_zps622b3782.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211812_zpsefd95604-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211812_zpsefd95604.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211822_zpsc9ada6e5-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211822_zpsc9ada6e5.jpg.html)
Here is the car this morning. As you can see I didn't quite finish last night. I was able to borrow a car for today to get to work, but after tonight it will be all ready. I still need to finish a few little bits of wiring, such as the headlights, marker lights, and the cooling fans. Once those are done, I just need to fill the transmission with fluid, put the ont bumper on and take it for a spin!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130520_074934_zps6ac84842-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130520_074934_zps6ac84842.jpg.html)
That's all for now. Should have some more pictues and maybe a video later tonight.
Thanks,
Ryan
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Lots of progress over the long weekend. There were so many little things that I had to finish up, I won't list them all. I will show the larger tasks that may help others. My first order of business was to figure out what was wrong with my brakes. Ever since I installed the DSE hydraulic clutch master cylinder bracket, my brakes weren't working correctly. I realized that I needed to clearance the bracket because it caused a bind with the petal lever. I clearanced the hole, and then reinstalled everything. Still had a bind? Still not sure what caused the issue, but I took the master cylinder off and to the bench to verify it was working. Then reinstalled and the brakes worked great. :???: Anyway, that is done, just need bench bleed it and reinstall.
While I had the booster off because of the clutch bracket, It was time to figure out a method for making a petal stop. If I don't do something about that, a hard shift could over extend the clutch MC and ruin it. Which in turn would leave me stranded. Here is what I came up with.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130526_203236_zps09687dc0-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130526_203236_zps09687dc0.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130526_203244_zps125544e2-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130526_203244_zps125544e2.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130526_203256_zps77c1d9cc-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130526_203256_zps77c1d9cc.jpg.html)
And the final product. It works great and is fully adjustable.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_085900_zpsabe317be-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_085900_zpsabe317be.jpg.html)
Another issue that I ran into is making sure that the clutch throw is sufficient to fully engage and disengage the clutch. My solution came from someone on LS1tech.com. I used a 3/8 - 16 coupler and jam nuts, cut and threaded the shaft, and made my own adjustable clutch master cylinder! If you do decide to copy me make sure that when you cut the shaft, that you actually cut about an inch out of it in order to make sure you can shorten it if necessary. Also, don't thread the shaft all the way down. A section towards the bottom is hollow, which causes a weak point and people have had problems where on a hard shift that the shaft will break.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_085448_zpsf73901dc-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_085448_zpsf73901dc.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_110034_zps89d2721d-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_110034_zps89d2721d.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_110107_zps3c024e4b-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_110107_zps3c024e4b.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_111602_zpse9f457ec-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_111602_zpse9f457ec.jpg.html)
After all the work for the clutch it works great! It took some time making sure that the clutch was working properly, but well worth it. It works just like stock. The only think I haven't finished is the neutral safety switch. But the clutch grabs really nicely, and is much different than the stock set-up. Something that I will have to get used to.
The last hickup( or so I thought), was making sure that I had the correct rag joint. It took me about an hour of messing around to realize that the metric box I have, had a smaller diameter than my stock box. So, after messing around and talking to some car friends of mine, I found one! I don't know what the breakdown of years is, but this was out of a '77. Not sure if that is a mid-year thing, or if the box was actually off of a later metric box. Either way, I got it on and it worked great.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130526_172759_zpsc59b126c-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130526_172759_zpsc59b126c.jpg.html)
Now, the fun part. I test fit everything and double checked to make sure that everything I had done was tight, etc. I finally took it off of the jack stands. Since I know that I had the wheels off a few times I went around with a torque wrench to ensure they were tight. I am not going through that again... :shock: Anyway, I forgot how low to the ground the car was.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_162919_zpsbcce5d53-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_162919_zpsbcce5d53.jpg.html)
Sorry, its blurry.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_162932_zpsb72eca59-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_162932_zpsb72eca59.jpg.html)
Here are some gound clearance pictures. Just have to be aware of those when I am driving. Although, they aren't any lower than the hooker headers I had.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_163000_zpsa6b8bcc2-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_163000_zpsa6b8bcc2.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_163008_zps07ac53de-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_163008_zps07ac53de.jpg.html)
Well, I suppose it was time for a test drive. Being really excited to finally get the car out and drive it around and listening for anything out of the ordinary, I forgot one thing. GAS!!! Here I am stranded at what used to be a gas station. :lol: I couldn't be mad and I was only about a mile from my house, so my wife came and got me and we threw some more gas in it. I think it was a good think that I ran out of gas anyway because the axle bearings were screaming at me. I needed to replace them, but thought I could get away with them for a little while. Nope, they need it asap. I think for the summer I will get two saver bearings and let it ride.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130527_155904_zps0c4988e4-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130527_155904_zps0c4988e4.jpg.html)
Yes, I know this was my initial shake down run. So no shaker, passenger seat or front bumper. What can I say, I was excited. It was hard to say how the car really ran because I couldn't hear anything but the axle bearing. I will say that the car had great throttle response, and with the 3.73 gears it will be very fast. I churped or spun the tires everytime I started from a stop. It will be very fun! :lol: Another thing I noticed is the car is quieter than with my Pontiac? Weird. Overall really happy with the progress and I can't wait to put some miles on it!
Cheers,
Ryan
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I got some more pictures last night. I can't believe I didn't get any shots of the engine!
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130528_210954_zps2d80f85d-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130528_210954_zps2d80f85d.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130528_211002_zpsd7450395-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130528_211002_zpsd7450395.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130528_211013_zps565c4edc-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130528_211013_zps565c4edc.jpg.html)
Here is a better shot of the rear disk brakes.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130528_211129_zps62bfb652-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130528_211129_zps62bfb652.jpg.html)
And here is were I put the rear adjustable proportioning valve. Very accessable, but completely hidden. And you can also see my stainless steel braided rear lines.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130528_211146_zpsde3d4d41-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130528_211146_zpsde3d4d41.jpg.html)
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Ok, guys. I pissed the wife off again this weekend... I worked on my car almost all Saturday and most of Sunday, but made tons of progress towards getting this car to a reliable driving status once again. So, a recap of my work. I started off by installing two axle saver bearings. With the right tools they were simple to install. After struggling a little with the passengers side, the driver's side went in within minutes. Buttoned up the rear end and the axles were all done. Then took the car for its first official test drive, with gas this time. I was much more pleased with the way that the car performed with the new axle bearings. NO more screeching. Still have a slight scrapping sound from a rear backing plate contacting my rotors, but overall not bad. I just drove about 10 miles basically to get gas and back.
Then Sunday morning, I wanted to get the car ready for a longer cruise. Which meant I had to put exhaust gaskets on, reinstall the interior and front bumper, bleed the brakes and other finishing touches. I finally finished it up around 2 pm on Sunday. It was time to clean up and take the car out. Now, up until then I hadn't taken the car past 3k rpms. I was listening for any odd noises, rattles, etc. After about 25 miles or so, I felt good enough to get on it while entering the on ramp. All I can say is WOW. If I could race my car from last year vs. my car today, the car today would blow it out of the water. No contest that the LS1 really woke up my car. Once on the highway, the 6th gear was finally useful. At 70-75 mph the car quietly drove along at 1800 rpms! Absolutely impressed.
Once I got the car back from the test drive, I took a few pictures of my accomplishments.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/20130602_200407_zps2fb42ba4-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130602_200407_zps2fb42ba4.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/20130602_200414_zps18e73f1b-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130602_200414_zps18e73f1b.jpg.html)
Still need to adjust the hood to fit better on the driver's side.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/20130602_200423_zps424535d3-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130602_200423_zps424535d3.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/20130602_200607_zps4f604253-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130602_200607_zps4f604253.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/20130602_200616_zpsb8b4ab05-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130602_200616_zpsb8b4ab05.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/20130602_200629_zpsf59a7f71-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130602_200629_zpsf59a7f71.jpg.html)
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130528_210954_zps2d80f85d-1.jpg) (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130528_210954_zps2d80f85d.jpg.html)
Overall, Great experience. There wasn't any significant issues other than the backing plate that is lightly scrapping against the rotor. Should be a simple fix. I also need to finish up some lingering projects such as my wiper motor conversion, paint the top of my cowl, find a better lower radiator hose, wire in my headlights and parking lights, and somehow fix my shaker to the hood.
There is a car show in two weeks that I plan to attend. It's called Cruisin' Palooza in Whitney Point, NY for those in the area if you want to swing by and talk cars.
Thanks,
Ryan
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Well that's a fairly abrupt way to end this build thread. I'll see if I can dig up some more photos from that summer, but I finished up some more projects and eventually sold the car in February of 2014. Crazy as that seems so long ago that I sold that car. Really good to go down memory lane and see the work that I did back then. Hopefully the pictures and details that I dug up are helpful
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Wow. Rebuilding this thread had to be kinda like rebuilding the car. Thank you for taking the time to do this. It will be appreciated by everyone.
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Definitely brings back memories. I found this site when researching LS swaps and found Nocturnes (I think that was his screen name). He he ls swaped a Nocturne blue (or whatever you call it) TA. Between his and Ryan's I was able to complete my swap. Thanks again Ryan for rebuilding this thread (I know there was som copy and past, but I still takes time). Also, thanks again for all your help over the years with my car questions. I hope run into you someday in real life.
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I hope to run into you someday in real life.
Well, that didn't end well :lol:
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I hope to run into you someday in real life.
Well, that didn't end well :lol:
We can fix it. My old man is a tv repairman. He’s got an awesome set of tools.
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Mike, my heart sank for a second because I was thinking you found my old car or something in that condition. :shock: