Recent Posts

1

Interior / Re: Rear armrest opening cover plates ?

« Last post by FormTA on Today at 06:32:16 AM »

It's interesting but I bet even a concourse restoration could skip installing those and no one should be the wiser.  The most interesting thing I read today was about the dipping of the part in primer in California vs spraying based on the year. Don't get me wrong I also enjoyed hearing about the cover plates but the fact you knew about the dip vs spay years and a certain plant. Just wow!

2

Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: 1981 Rear Disc Brake Parking Brake

« Last post by jbanna on Today at 01:24:00 AM »

Well, if you go back a few photos in the replies, you'll find one showing the correct solid line attachments, at least on the left side - the right side doesn't have the big loop.  I don't have any banjo bolts on mine...I can send photos later, but it's bedtime in the PNW!

3

Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Turn signal cam

« Last post by jbanna on Today at 01:17:37 AM »

...and it's the stock rally wheel with the six screw attachments...

4

Interior / Re: Rear armrest opening cover plates ?

« Last post by Wallington on Today at 12:22:22 AM »

 I considered removing thick dried Dynamat insulation just to show how these plates fit. But really, the effort is far beyond what anyone has an interest in, even me.

So here's a pic through the body louvre opening in door jam on RH side. Of interest, but perhaps not surprisingly, that black is the rear of a patch of Dynamat and it has no stick whatsoever. Yet find an uncovered seam inside somewhere, or sit on it, and you'll find it sticking to everything.
Now, to find a buyer for something no one cares about.

Firebird rear armrest panel opening RH side by Ben, on Flickr

5

Mechanical / Re: Coolant leak how to fix

« Last post by formula46two on May 03, 2024, 09:22:00 PM »

Thanks I will tackle this Sunday..

6

Exterior / Re: Hood alignment. My next impossible mission.

« Last post by tinpusher on May 03, 2024, 08:29:47 PM »

I concur with all of the above. I would set the door body line high to the quarter panel and remove the striker.

7

Mechanical / Re: Boosting a 301 (for fun)

« Last post by FormTA on May 03, 2024, 04:41:26 PM »

Ya, I should probably give him a call. He runs them the way they were originally, a where the carburetor or throttle body efi is before the turbo. I want to have the TBI on the standard intake and blow through it. I'm not sure he has ever done that but I'm sure he would know more than I. I was hoping someone who has turbo something or who runs sniper efi will chime in too.

8

Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Turn signal cam

« Last post by jbanna on May 03, 2024, 12:31:50 PM »

Ok, after centering the new gear, the steering wheel, and getting a shop to align the wheels, my turn signal cam is off a bit - when I turn right it clicks off too early, but when I turn left it clicks off way too late...any ideas?  Can I pull the hub and adjust it?

9

Mechanical / Re: Clutch Fan

« Last post by nUcLeArEnVoY on May 03, 2024, 11:20:12 AM »

A standard duty clutch fan was what was equipped from the factory, which would be a Hayden 2705. This was even for AC cars.

Most owners upgrade to the Heavy Duty 2747, which is JUST barely applicable for the 18.5-19" Pontiac 400 or Olds 403 fans. This is what I use and it cools very well.

Still, others overkill and use the Severe Duty 2797. The issue with using this clutch is that it is meant for fans with a much larger pitch than any factory fan, and as a result it is pretty much engaged 100% of the time. This overcools the motor as well as robs engine power due to how stiff it is.

10

Mechanical / Re: Coolant leak how to fix

« Last post by nUcLeArEnVoY on May 03, 2024, 11:11:32 AM »

Probably the most notorious coolant leak point on a Pontiac motor.

As others have said, you only bolt down the intake not even finger tight; and you tighten the draw bolt first to effectively "pull" the intake into the timing cover to compress the donut seal. The spec is 15 lb-ft, but it goes more by feel since that draw bolt is prone to snapping easily. Once that's torqued, THEN you torque the intake bolts to spec.

A bead of RTV along the machined flange on either the intake or timing cover is permissible for a little extra insurance. Shouldn't have to put any on the donut itself.