TAC Tech => Exterior => Topic started by: Gene-73 on March 30, 2021, 03:25:17 PM
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If anyone is looking to re-post some of your old content, I would ask that you start with "how to install welting".
I'm getting ready to do mine and remember that there were some good tips here prior to the crash. Thanks.
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I looked and dont have any pics. When I did mine I used a 3m weather strip adhesive. I put it on the longer leg of the welting (the back side) and slid it on very carefully. That glue will get everywhere if youre not too careful. At the bottom the welting held the curvature pretty good. On the top where the angle is sharper you need to do a 'V' notch in the back side as a relief cut. Factory used a staple at this point, I just used glue. I suppose with a very small drill bit, thinking dremel, you could drill a couple of holes and put a matching piece of wire in to make your staple. I used some small spring clamps that I got at home depot for like .10 these are almost like what would be used for models. I clamped the welting in place, heavily at the curves and let it sit overnight. I did leave the ends a bit long that I trimmed of after the glue had set up.
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Thanks Kerry. This definitely helps.
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I started this and really got discouraged. My original flairs don't seem to fit well at all. I also went and bought the stuff from the guy on ebay who had some colored welting extruded like/matching the original. It was $100 or so for just enough for the four flairs. It's really, really nice but I have to rework my flairs to get a better fit.
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I started this and really got discouraged. My original flairs don't seem to fit well at all. I also went and bought the stuff from the guy on ebay who had some colored welting extruded like/matching the original. It was $100 or so for just enough for the four flairs. It's really, really nice but I have to rework my flairs to get a better fit.
Heat gun is your friend.
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Ya, I tried and even clamped paint sticks to them for 6 months.... just couldn't get the curl out of the lip that meets the body. I have another set that seems to fit better. Working on those now.
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I did the heat gun thing and got them to fit ok although the shape took a bit of a hit. The welting was a disappointment as I used adhesion promoter and epoxy to paint but it still flaked off to the point I was able to completely remove the paint and primer. Obviously an error early on on my part. I bought a spray can of shark bite that I am going to use as a second attempt. I have two wheel spats with the welting glued on as Kerry described above. I have some fine line tape to mask off the completed paint and will try and spray them like that. Just waiting for painting season to start, and finishing up the R-M Camaro project I am doing for my cousin.
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There was a trick on here regarding painting the welting I used. A yard stick is about the right size for the welting to slip onto. That will hold it into place while it can be painted. I painted the stuff for my black car with the same paint I used on the body. The paint store told me that most if not all modern paints already has flex additive, (I suppose because so many new cars are all plastic) so I just sprayed them with no special attention. They flexed around the flairs, a few years later they all still look great. Not a crack one in the paint. I would have to look but I think the welting I used on my silver 79 car was already silver'sh rubber to begin with thus not needing to be painted.
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Great post.
Heres another question I know was addressed on the old forum...
Who makes the best welting? I see a dozen or so companies offer it but I imagine some are better quality than others. Is there one that is superior? Softer? Easier to work with? Im about to pull the trigger. I have been finding Ames to almost always have the better version of MOST parts. A lot of 2nd tier stuff out there. Thoughts?
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I got mine by the foot from Ames.
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The best is the colored stuff from a guy who used to be no Hitman's site. I did find him on ebay. The welting us almost a perfect match to the original and it is super flexible and he had it in the popular colors. But, it cost about $100 dollars.
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I looked at the welting and the old posts and decided to go another route.
I had a look at panel bond/car bond, 3M, Wurts, Soudals, there are plenty out there. Panel bond worked like a charm for me. No bad fits, make as smooth and nice as you want it :)
Since my car is a deep grey, I went with black. All the flairs were redone in fibreglass, so I'm not sure how this will hold on the old stuff, but I'm pretty sure it will work. Car bond/panel bond sticks to most materials.
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Do I recall correctly that someone recommended 3M plastic and emblem adhesive for the welting?
I just found an unopened tube of this in my adhesive box and must have bought it for something but can't remember what.
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Great post.
Heres another question I know was addressed on the old forum...
Who makes the best welting? I see a dozen or so companies offer it but I imagine some are better quality than others. Is there one that is superior? Softer? Easier to work with? Im about to pull the trigger. I have been finding Ames to almost always have the better version of MOST parts. A lot of 2nd tier stuff out there. Thoughts?
Wizard 61 on the PY forum, makes it/has it in Bucc. Red, Polar White, Starlight Black and Lucy Blue. he can be found on Ebay too. I bought the Red from him a couple years ago.
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That's him. Thanks for posting that.